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Have any of you with this problem taken an ohm-meter to the positive wire and checked the resistance over the length of the wire? I've had 2 Gen 1 Explorers that have had internal corrosion in the cable that caused a click and no start condition while all the lights and other accessories worked well. In both cases, the cable looked fine from the outside, but had significant corrosion internally leading to high resistance readings with a meter.
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Have any of you with this problem taken an ohm-meter to the positive wire and checked the resistance over the length of the wir........de, but had significant corrosion internally leading to high resistance readings with a meter.
no, all my wires are good but the two starter wires, replaced them with top quality stuff, these are the only two I have not done.. Im clearing out my garage in next two days so i can stop laying in the snow.. im gonna replace them first as well
Have any of you with this problem taken an ohm-meter to the positive wire and checked the resistance over the length of the wire? I've had 2 Gen 1 Explorers that have had internal corrosion in the cable that caused a click and no start condition while all the lights and other accessories worked well. In both cases, the cable looked fine from the outside, but had significant corrosion internally leading to high resistance readings with a meter.
A simple resistance check on a large multi-strand cable is not a good test. You could have only one good strand of copper, and the rest of the cable cut, and the resistance check would show good. However, there's not enough cable left to carry the current needed to turn the starter.
A better test would be a voltage drop test. I've seen a demo on youtube, but it's been awhile. Basically, you measure voltage at the battery during cranking to see what your battery drops down to (hopefully above 10.5volts). Then you measure the voltage at the starter during cranking. There should be no difference. If there is, you are losing power somewhere such as a corroded or cut cable.
With a cable that's badly corroded enough to cause a no start condition, you will see an increase in resistance. It's a quick, easy test that is accurate enough to give you an idea if the cable may be bad.
ok so my no starting problem has now two things being replaced.. so lets hope it narrows it down..
went and got a battery Autocraft Gold. So brand new battery... since it was over 135.00 advance auto has 20% off right now so I got a Starter fender solenoid for free..... i like free items... so yeah paid for new battery and free solenoid
at least with these two things, itll then narrow it down to either wires or starter its self.
That was my next bit of advice. Once a good source of power is established you can then check other parts of the circut properly. Volt dropping is the only way to properly determine a bad component.
Basically if you put your meter leads across part of the circut; like a solenoid, wire, any connection, etc, and operate the circut, then you will see the voltage being used by that part of the circut on the meter's screen. Obviously the starter in this case is the load and you will see close to source votage being used up here.
If you would measure across the solenoid, you should only see about .2 to .5 volts or so on your meter. If you measure from wire end to wire end you may see about .1 volts for a good wire. You should see battery volts from the wire stud at the starter to ground - because that is the load in the circut.
Remember any amount af voltage you read at any given point in the circut that is not the designed load in the circut is voltage lost for the intended work - that is, cranking the engine.
If you see more than about 1 volt at any point, then that point needs attention, either cleaning of replacement. If the starter does not turn and everything else is good and you see source voltage across it, then your starter is to blame.
I hope this helps, its a technique I use every day to diagnose electrical problems on the equipment I work on.
what i did do tho, was what the battery had on the mmm was 11 volts, the two big spots on the fender relay read the exact same as the battery.. then the top little one that was a push on read .05 volts.. i got all that with the mmm set to volts and just testing that up there.
Since I kinda hijacked the thread so I wouldnt start another one since his problem and mine were both a no start... For people who are searching No Start, Starter CLICK.. This will make it easier.
When you get CLICK CLICK.. or CLICK.. There are a few things to blame..
Battery
Cables/Wires
Fender Solenoid for starter
Starter
On my journey of CLICK this is what I have done In order of doing it...
Battery Testing... Battery short... Battery Replaced.
CLICK
Fender Mount Solenoid replaced even though 99% sure it was good.
CLICK
Now I have removed the wires for the starter and the starter.. I have a 4ga wire ready to run for the starter and a 10 gauge for the other starter wire. both cut a tad longer then stock. Will put on terminals, crimp the terminal then solder it. Will let you know!
So ye who is looking.. I hijacked this thread with same probs he was having.. Im perfectly running now! Right now what I did was new Starter Wires, and starter and battery and solenoid. running just fine, first turn it started.. yay! So yeah Ill be like everyone else.. Check for a,b,c,d all at once or just replace it all and never worry about it.
