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Hairline crack on top of radiator

aberrant

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1999 Ford Explorer EB
There is a 1" hairline crack on the top left side of my radiator that I noticed about a month ago. I've never noticed any fluid on the ground, so I think it's evaporating. This is the first time I've seen fluid on the top as shown in the photo. My question is, how bad does this look? Should I replace the radiator now or is there another fix? Maybe a sealant of some kind? Thanks.

IMG_3283.jpg
 



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There is a 1" hairline crack on the top of my radiator that I noticed about a month ago. I've never noticed any fluid on the ground, so I think it's evaporating. This is the first time I've seen fluid on the top as shown in the photo. My question is, how bad does this look? Should I replace the radiator now or is there another fix? Maybe a sealant of some kind? Thanks.

View attachment 322297
You can try re-crimping the radiator. I would suggest K-seal as a sealant. I personally had good luck with it. If your coolant is clean, it should be no problem. Best is to replace the radiator.
 






If you can access the entirety of the crack, you might try an epoxy like JBWeld slow set (stronger and better adhesion than the fast set version) after slightly sanding the area and thoroughly cleaning it, but I would assume you will need a new radiator eventually. If the system can't hold pressure you will have a lower boiling point so long drives or especially in summer you might notice the most difference.

You might also want to replace your radiator cap in case it is not releasing excess pressure and that contributed to the crack. If you don't repair the crack then the crack itself will release excess pressure, probably too much. ;)
 






If the plastic tank is cracked, I recommend a replace. Heat cycles will make it worse, and it will let go at the worst possible moment.

Radiators aren’t cheap but they aren’t $$$ either.

If it is leaking at the joint, sure—try a re-crimp.
 






I definitely don't want it to overheat damage the engine, so I will look into replacing the radiator.

Here's a better photo when it's dry. You can clearly see the crack. Thanks.

IMG_3184.JPG
 












My advice is to replace the radiator and stop screwing around. Once the plastic tanks start to crack or leak there's really no good repair option. As said replacement radiators are cheap and super easily to replace on the V6's. They're a bit of a PITA to replace on the V8, but doable.
 






^ True but if one already has some epoxy, or possibly urethane construction adhesive, it would only take 5 minutes to put some on and it's not likely to make it leak worse, just to get by until the new radiator can be put in.

The most important thing has already happened, realizing that there is a leak so it won't be allowed to run low on coolant. You could drive all day long with a top crack as long as you keep it topped off, though it might coat some of the engine bay with coolant if it gets worse which it eventually will, and it could cause a thermal shock that makes the crack grow if much cold coolant is added to a hot radiator.
 






^ True but if one already has some epoxy, or possibly urethane construction adhesive, it would only take 5 minutes to put some on and it's not likely to make it leak worse, just to get by until the new radiator can be put in.

The most important thing has already happened, realizing that there is a leak so it won't be allowed to run low on coolant. You could drive all day long with a top crack as long as you keep it topped off, though it might coat some of the engine bay with coolant if it gets worse which it eventually will, and it could cause a thermal shock that makes the crack grow if much cold coolant is added to a hot radiator.

Consider this...
You have a small crack in your plastic radiator tank. You decide to apply JB Weld, or an epoxy, to the crack (on the outside of the plastic tank). When the engine and cooling system goes from cold to normal operating temperature the system pressurizes. Our vehicles use a 16lb radiator cap so the hot coolant pressure pushes outward on a crack that has been patched from the outside. I'd say the odds of this type of repair working are slim and if your driving and the crack widens and lets coolant leak out without you realizing it the systems pressure will suddenly drastically increase as the the coolant temp begins to boil, not to mention the inconvenience of you will now likely will be left stranded somewhere.

The OP's good news is that the crack is a the top of the tank and losing a quart, or so, of coolant will probably not effect the efficiency of the cooling system, but the system will no longer alert you to the coolant level in the radiator dropping as the cooling system is no longer sealed and will no longer draw from the expansion tank.

IMO, for the cost of a $120 radiator (yes you can spend more) it isn't worth the risk. What's the old saying? "Penny wise and pound foolish?"
 






I'd replace it
If I was gonna try to fix it I'd use a little file to clean it up and some q-bond
 






My question is, how bad does this look?

Just sayin' - Looks like Ol' Reliable's radiator is just getting comfortable to blow when you least expect it; like on a 32 degree winter afternoon and your wife and kids are getting ready for the drive to grandma's house for Christmas Dinner.

Should I replace the radiator now or is there another fix?

My vote: Replace

PS - Great 2nd pic of the crack - that pic is worth 1,000 words!
 






Well, it looks like the consensus is to replace it, so replace it I will.

A local shop quoted me $170 for the radiator (Rad-Cool I think he said?). Oreilly's wants $160 for a Murray radiator and a whopping $286 for a Motorcraft one. I'd prefer to support the small, independent shop, so I'll probably go with them, but is $170 a little much?

On another note, I think it's been leaking for awhile actually, as a few months ago I noticed that the reserve tank was bone dry. Not sure how long I ran it like that, but hopefully it didn't do any damage to the engine. The gauge always looked normal and never went past the midday point.

Thanks for all the help, much appreciated!
 






@aberrant

What engine do you have?

5.0 V-8 (doubt it at those prices you've been quoted)

4.0 SOHC

4.0 OHV

In fact, if you add that small detail to your Vehicle Profile, in the future, we can help you faster w/ your questions - seriously ;)

Ballpark/Baseline on a guess you have a V-6;

* Either V-6 radiator is a super easy 1 swap out hour job in your driveway.

* Radiator is about $100 @ Rock Auto OR Amazon.

Do you have Amazon Prime - you can free shipping?!?!
 






@aberrant

What engine do you have?

5.0 V-8 (doubt it at those prices you've been quoted)

4.0 SOHC

4.0 OHV

In fact, if you add that small detail to your Vehicle Profile, in the future, we can help you faster w/ your questions - seriously ;)

Ballpark/Baseline on a guess you have a V-6;

* Either V-6 radiator is a super easy 1 swap out hour job in your driveway.

* Radiator is about $100 @ Rock Auto OR Amazon.

Do you have Amazon Prime - you can free shipping?!?!

I have a 4.0L SOHC. Don't have Amazon Prime, but I will check Rock Auto and Amazon. Thanks.
 






Spectra. Premium. Cu2174
 






Can I reuse my old radiator cap or do I need a new one?
 






I would recommend new radiator cap. They are inexpensive, especially compared to radiators and engines. I can not think of any great reason to use old radiator cap.

Good luck.
 






Consider this...
You have a small crack in your plastic radiator tank. You decide to apply JB Weld, or an epoxy, to the crack (on the outside of the plastic tank). When the engine and cooling system goes from cold to normal operating temperature the system pressurizes. Our vehicles use a 16lb radiator cap so the hot coolant pressure pushes outward on a crack that has been patched from the outside. I'd say the odds of this type of repair working are slim and if your driving and the crack widens and lets coolant leak out without you realizing it the systems pressure will suddenly drastically increase as the the coolant temp begins to boil, not to mention the inconvenience of you will now likely will be left stranded somewhere.

I might be making some assumptions, since the average person would already assume it needs replaced.

Those assumptions could be something like that there is a need to continue using the vehicle, or money is tight, or COVID has caused a supply problem for parts.

This within the context that the vehicle has already gone a month without an overheating situation presenting itself, so the regular driving routine is not overheating it, and the awareness of the problem, suggests to me that someone who is aware, and has a couple gallons of water onboard, could go a fairly long time with a radiator top crack.

If it overheats, yes you pull over. It is not going to explode the engine right away to have the coolant boil, rather if one is aware this coolant issues exists, they can be watching the dash temperature gauge. They would not be stranded to the extent of leaving the vehicle there, merely needing to let the engine cool down a little and if low on coolant, add some. Just sayin', if it came to it, that beats walking to work till you have the chance to fix it right.

I don't think the crack widening makes that much difference. You could do this with the radiator cap off. It'd just spew coolant all over the engine bay if you kept driving once it started boiling. Maybe I'm thinking of a different sensor system but can't we even hook an OBDII dongle up and have realtime coolant temperature info to see if it's ramping up fast?

It's not ideal, but I don't think it is the problem you're making it out to be, if you monitor it. I've rode in several vehicles that were worse off than that back in the day. It might be a Mad Max scenario but you do what you gotta do...

As far as applying epoxy on the outside of the crack, I suppose I didn't elaborate enough. The idea would be to take a plastic squeegee (credit card, etc) on a bead of epoxy and push it down into the crack, scuff a significantly larger area than just a few millimeters on each side of the crack, and if you happened to have a piece of fiberglass mat or cloth, inlay that into the epoxy too, but, I was only talking about a short term repair till a new radiator can be installed.

If it breaks on the first time out for more than 10 minutes, it was little ventured, nothing lost if you just pull over if it overheats. I guess I just don't see being stranded on the side of public roads for 20 minutes to cool down, as the hardship it used to be, now that everyone has a cellphone.
 






@donalds offers up a good radiator - I too currently have a Spectra.
 



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The comment on plastic welding brought to mind the blend door fix. (Also used the technique to repair the nose bumper on my John Deere mower, ~20" remelt line.) If not already epoxied and going to replace anyway, might try your trusty soldering iron. The objective is to get the plastic on either side of the crack to melt and flow together while working from one end to the other. If careful, no filler stock will be needed. Should be watertight when done but, like epoxy, may not hold pressure. Just a suggestion.
 






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