Bobs2018ExplorerSport
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- February 4, 2019
- Messages
- 249
- Reaction score
- 99
- Location
- USA
- City, State
- Livermore, CA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2018 Explorer Sport 4WD
- Callsign
- KD6ANY
I just finished installing the Steeda HD Adjustable Rear Sway Bar kit, as well as their HD Trailing Arm kit, on my 2018 Explorer XLT. Both kits went in without any trouble (although they don't come with instructions, as you have to download it from their website and print them out). As mentioned elsewhere, it was suggested that I use the center hole, which I did, and it was a good overall choice. Once I was done, I took it for a test ride and put it through its paces, and the improvement in the overall handling on turns, especially at higher speeds, was simply amazing!
I highly recommend you do as I did... I jacked-up the rear and put it on jackstands, then removed both rear tires. Doing so made the trailing arms right there, for easy changing!
There IS one caveat that I wanted to share, however, as it's really important... when you replace the trailing arms, the instructions say to make sure you "load" the suspension before you tighten the bushing bolts to spec. This is because Ford specs called for 122 ft. lbs. where the arm goes into the frame, and 111 ft. lbs. where it meets the wheel/knuckle. That's a LOT of torque to have squeezing the units' bushings, so they want the suspension in the position as if it was carrying the vehicle load with the tire on the ground.
Of course, I found it too difficult to try to get my torque wrench under there with the tires in the way, so I left it up on its jackstands, and took a third floor jack and simply jacked-up under the rear wheel knuckle until it started to lift the car... then did my bolt tightening. In that way, each side was in position as if it was carrying a "load", and the trailing arm was then tightened in that position. (IF you don't do it this way, the shop manual states that the bushings could suffer a very short lifespan)... so it's clearly an important step!
Anyway, like I said, both of these upgrades really makes it handle so much better now!
I highly recommend you do as I did... I jacked-up the rear and put it on jackstands, then removed both rear tires. Doing so made the trailing arms right there, for easy changing!
There IS one caveat that I wanted to share, however, as it's really important... when you replace the trailing arms, the instructions say to make sure you "load" the suspension before you tighten the bushing bolts to spec. This is because Ford specs called for 122 ft. lbs. where the arm goes into the frame, and 111 ft. lbs. where it meets the wheel/knuckle. That's a LOT of torque to have squeezing the units' bushings, so they want the suspension in the position as if it was carrying the vehicle load with the tire on the ground.
Of course, I found it too difficult to try to get my torque wrench under there with the tires in the way, so I left it up on its jackstands, and took a third floor jack and simply jacked-up under the rear wheel knuckle until it started to lift the car... then did my bolt tightening. In that way, each side was in position as if it was carrying a "load", and the trailing arm was then tightened in that position. (IF you don't do it this way, the shop manual states that the bushings could suffer a very short lifespan)... so it's clearly an important step!
Anyway, like I said, both of these upgrades really makes it handle so much better now!
