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cold start problems

Exp98

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Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT SOHC
evening! when i changed my oil and added motorkote (first time!) and i started it up, i heard what soubded like valve chatter for a second or two... i already changed the primary and hydraulic tensioners... ill cold start again tomorrow to see if indeed that is the issue but any ideas are appreciated! thank you and enjoy the night!
 



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Normal.

The springs merely keep the chains tight enough to prevent catastrophe. First start after an oil change will sound like hell for a second or two...unless you do the following:

Pre-fill the oil filter before you spin it on. Go slow—it’s easy to overfill. It’ll take many small pours to top off. Then, crank the trunk with the pedal to the floor until the oil pressure needle comes off the peg—then release the gas pedal for start.

This is what I do every oil change to minimize wear and chain slap.
 






oh, ok!!! ive never noticed that before but i trust you more than my own small brain LOL. I prefilled it a bit, but only about half way... i didnt think of cranking it, but ill do that next time!!! thank you!
 






Assuming V6~4.0L~SOHC engine; your profile isn't clear?
How many miles on engine?
What oil weight?
Does "primary and hydraulic tensioners" = Timing JackChain SpringTensioner & LeftFront+RightRearChain OilPressurized Tensioners?
Sounds like you're trying to do right & get this vehicle in shape.
Yep, GasPedal trick is good to do prior to any cold start.

yep its a sohc, with 320k, 5-30, yep jackshaft and the pressurized ones, and ill try that next time! thank you!!!
 






Assuming V6~4.0L~SOHC engine; your profile isn't clear?
How many miles on engine?
What oil weight?
Does "primary and hydraulic tensioners" = Timing JackChain SpringTensioner & LeftFront+RightRearChain OilPressurized Tensioners?
Sounds like you're trying to do right & get this vehicle in shape.
Yep, GasPedal trick is good to do prior to any cold start.
out of curiosity, how much does the gas pedal trick help to reduce internal wear? ill still try it im just wondering because usually when i start it the needle comes off given less than a second (maybe half a seocnd?)
 






Significantly, IMO.

There’s a big difference between 400ish rpm with negligible forces (pumping air) and 1500-1800rpm with significant forces (cylinders firing). The residual oil clinging to the bearings will protect things in the former case. The latter requires oil pressure.

Plus the chains slapping around during that time...no bueno.

I do the pedal trick on every cold start, too.
 






Significantly, IMO.

There’s a big difference between 400ish rpm with negligible forces (pumping air) and 1500-1800rpm with significant forces (cylinders firing). The residual oil clinging to the bearings will protect things in the former case. The latter requires oil pressure.

Plus the chains slapping around during that time...no bueno.

I do the pedal trick on every cold start, too.
oh, ok! sounds good then! now im concerned 😅 because prev owner would start it then immediately drop it in rev. or drive when he needed to move it around, but when he needed to actually go somewhere hed wait around a min but when he left i think he hit 3k if my ears serve me right... 😖

however, he did 3k changes and stuck to it with m1 full syn 5-30 so that eases it a bit but now im scared even more 😂
 






I've tried the gas pedal trick
Couldn't get it to work even with a new tps Idk lol
 






oh, ok! sounds good then! now im concerned 😅 because prev owner would start it then immediately drop it in rev. or drive when he needed to move it around, but when he needed to actually go somewhere hed wait around a min but when he left i think he hit 3k if my ears serve me right... 😖
would my using motorkote add additional protection on top of the pedal trick?
I've tried the gas pedal trick
Couldn't get it to work even with a new tps Idk lol
oh 😅 im scared it wont shut injectors off and ill skyrocket to 4k on a cold start tho,.. could i run a kill switch and just crank it with that off bevause it will disengage the fuel pump?
 






would my using motorkote add additional protection on top of the pedal trick?

oh 😅 im scared it wont shut injectors off and ill skyrocket to 4k on a cold start tho,.. could i run a kill switch and just crank it with that off bevause it will disengage the fuel pump?
Now it will most likely work for you
It's just me Lmao it always works like that for me
Gov it a shot well worth it imo
 












sounds good! i dont wanna drop dough into a preoiler so i will try the pedal trick! with the religious 3k changes, i drive lightly 99% of the time (except when i see a mustang to pass) how much life should i see out of this engine if i am at 320k already? i havent done a compression test but it runs like a dream (except a slight rear main leak) so i bet its at least above 80 for all the cylinders 😅
 






Make sure you take all the slack out of your throttle cable. They stretch over time, and pedal to the floor may only give you 3/4. Pull the excess cable out past the pedal and install large zip ties as spacers to take up the slack...otherwise you may instead get a nice high rev instead of merely cranking.
 






Make sure you take all the slack out of your throttle cable. They stretch over time, and pedal to the floor may only give you 3/4. Pull the excess cable out past the pedal and install large zip ties as spacers to take up the slack...otherwise you may instead get a nice high rev instead of merely cranking.
oh, ok! i already did zipties but im concerned it may not be enough and what even is enough 😅 the throttle plate opened almost fully at WOT but i may just go with a kill switch and crank it that way...
 






If you did the zip ties, it’s probably fine.
 






If you did the zip ties, it’s probably fine.
oh, ok. i guess ill give at shot today. out of curiosity, how much life should i expect out of my motor? because i cant afford a new engine but i also dont wanna get rid of rhis rig because i keep it really clean... but if i do sell it at some point ill give yall dibs tho! but if in some miracle i save enoufh for a remanned motor would jasper be a good choice? thanks!
 






The chain guides/cassettes are the weak point. If those hold up, these are half million plus mile motors. There are guys here with well over 500k.

I haven’t heard anything bad about Jasper (do they use Ford timing components...???), but you’re gonna pay for it. I replaced my engine with a SOHC out of a 2010 Ranger with 36k on the clock. Truck was involved in a front end collision, totaled. Engine was flawless. Bought it for $1000 from LKQ, put a few hundred bucks in gaskets and such into it (water pump, etc), swapped the Ex stuff over (valve covers, intake, injectors, blah blah) and swapped it in. That was 5 years and 115,000mi ago. Zero problems, still sounds great.
 






Make sure you take all the slack out of your throttle cable. They stretch over time, and pedal to the floor may only give you 3/4. Pull the excess cable out past the pedal and install large zip ties as spacers to take up the slack...otherwise you may instead get a nice high rev instead of merely cranking.
Now this makes sense now
I did the zip tie fix when I did my other mods
 






Just try the “pedal trick” on a warm motor. If you rev out a warmed engine, it’ll be fine.
 



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