2000 Mountaineer All Windows Still Not Working After Repair

[Bluemach1]

I have a 2000 Mountaineer that all the windows have stopped working on. I had the issue with just the driver master not working. SO, today, I fixed the wires in the driver side multi-connector that were broken. These were the solid yellow and solid green. I did not see any others that were broken. I got it all back together and still not working. I thought perhaps a fuse. I checked #4 Maxi under the hood. I checked #10, #18 and #26 on the interior panel. All look good.

Figured I would try passenger side and rear windows. None work from their respective door switch.

Only other things not working are the vanity mirror lights, the dome light and the front "map" lights.

Are there any other relays that that I need to check? I saw something that lead me to believe that there is a relay under the dash that that controls these specific items but it was very vague. Can anyone confirm? If so, where are they and which should I test?

I do not have access to a full schematic. All I have is the garbage from the Haynes manual and it has nothing for these circuits.

I greatly appreciate the help!

 

[J_C]

Yes, battery saver and accessory delay relays, in a box up under the dash on right side of driver's footwell, can be swapped with some other relay of same size. If your Accessory delay is the larger type as pictured you can get one from the under-hood box. Considering the lights you mentioned, I'd try battery saver relay first.

If all else fails you can follow the attached wiring diagram and probe with a multimeter for 12V along the circuit. The door switch panel might be a good place to start, whether there is 12V getting to it on the blue/black wire and low resistance to chassis ground on the black wire.

 

[Bluemach1]

WOW! What a great reply. Exactly what I needed. I will check these out after work.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You likely have a wiring problem in the drivers door near the hinge. Very common.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, find the main power wire(blue with black stripe), and check that first. No windows will work unless that wire is hot with the ignition key on or at accessory. The wires all go through the door jamb, the monster round connector there. If the blue/black wire has no power at the LF door master switch, go to the door jamb. Carefully remove the one 10mm bolt, and take the factory zip tie off if it's still there. The wires you find inside coming from the kick panel, will sometimes break from the constant bending. You will have to repair any broken wires you find in there.

 

[Bluemach1]

You likely have a wiring problem in the drivers door near the hinge. Very common.

Ditto, find the main power wire(blue with black stripe), and check that first. No windows will work unless that wire is hot with the ignition key on or at accessory. The wires all go through the door jamb, the monster round connector there. If the blue/black wire has no power at the LF door master switch, go to the door jamb. Carefully remove the one 10mm bolt, and take the factory zip tie off if it's still there. The wires you find inside coming from the kick panel, will sometimes break from the constant bending. You will have to repair any broken wires you find in there.

Thanks guys. As mentioned in my original post, I had already done this. I found two wires that were broken, solid yellow and solid green. I will check the relays and if that does not do the trick I will go back into the wire loom. Certainly possible that I missed something.

 

[J_C]

Wire loom could cause windows not to function but not keep your interior lights from operating like a relay would. Heh, you could have BOTH problems.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks guys. As mentioned in my original post, I had already done this. I found two wires that were broken, solid yellow and solid green. I will check the relays and if that does not do the trick I will go back into the wire loom. Certainly possible that I missed something.

I don't know of any solid wires at the windows besides the main ground(large black(the small black wire is for the door lock switch)), virtually every OEM wire has two colors.

The main window relay can stop all of the windows from working, but only two wires can stop all of the windows from working. Those are the main power and main ground wires, 100% of window functions are through those two wires. So either the master switch is bad, the relay in the dash, or the blue/black wire is broken(or the ground but nobody has reported that one breaking yet).

So, change the window relay if you'd like, it's very old and time to replace it(all relays are due). Then again, "... find the main power wire(blue with black stripe), and check that...."

 

[Mbrooks420]

Thanks guys. As mentioned in my original post, I had already done this. I found two wires that were broken, solid yellow and solid green. I will check the relays and if that does not do the trick I will go back into the wire loom. Certainly possible that I missed something.

Yes, but if none of the windows work it’s almost surely in the drivers door. Starting in other doors won’t help you.

 

[Bluemach1]

Yes, but if none of the windows work it’s almost surely in the drivers door. Starting in other doors won’t help you.

Nah. I wouldn't look at any of the other doors. I meant that I would go back into the drivers door loom.

 

[Bluemach1]

I don't know of any solid wires at the windows besides the main ground(large black(the small black wire is for the door lock switch)), virtually every OEM wire has two colors.

The main window relay can stop all of the windows from working, but only two wires can stop all of the windows from working. Those are the main power and main ground wires, 100% of window functions are through those two wires. So either the master switch is bad, the relay in the dash, or the blue/black wire is broken(or the ground but nobody has reported that one breaking yet).

So, change the window relay if you'd like, it's very old and time to replace it(all relays are due). Then again, "... find the main power wire(blue with black stripe), and check that...."

Thanks. That is good info. Only takes a minute to pull the relay. If nothing else, maybe it solves the issue with the vanity mirror lights, dome light and map lights.

Unless, there was a very, very faint white stripe, I swear they were solid yellow and solid green.

Based on your comments and others, it is highly likely that I will get an opportunity to look again!

 

[donalds]

I've been here
I found a few broken wires in the door
The mirror wire was the hardest to find for me looked god but broke on the inside
Tug on all the wires sometimes the copper will break but not the wire insulation

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, there are a ton of wires in that LF door jamb. It can take a while to find a certain one you want.

Look closely at the master switch wires, those are good to get used to the wire colors. The blue/black feeds all of the power to the master switch. But the other three windows are fed by the switch, through the red/blue wire that comes out of it. Thus the big rear switch on the master switch, which disables the other window switches.

Here's the same wires, swapped into my 99's right front door. I had a time rewiring all four of my doors on that project.

 

[Turdle]

I was dinking with my overhead console map lights and blew a fuse which made windows dead along with dome lights but can't remember which fuse it was. I'm gonna suggest checking all fuses in the interior fuse panel.

 

[Bluemach1]

I checked the whole loom again. Checked every wire. All seem intact. I checked the Battery Saver, Interior Lamp and One Touch relays under the dash by swapping (I happened to have a brand new one). All checked ok (did not fix the problem). The only one I did not check was the ACC Delay. Maybe it is the master switch itself?

Time to start probing. Is the blu/blk hot at all times with the key in position II? Will it show 12V when uncoupled from the door jamb connector?

 

[J_C]

Yes the master switch blue/black is hot at all times when key is in accessory position, which turns the gem on to energize the relays.

It will not show 12V on the switch side when uncoupled from the door jamb connector. How could it with the wires disconnected? However the opposite side will, if you have the door jamb connector unplugged, you can also measure for 12V there on the quarter panel side, on the contact corresponding to the blue/black wire.

If it is difficult to determine which wire that is, you can measure between chassis ground and any/all pins on the connector, and one should be 12V. If none are 12V with the key in the accessory position, the problem is upstream of that. Of course this requires your probe to be small enough to get into the connector.

 

[Bluemach1]

Yes the master switch blue/black is hot at all time when key is in accessory mode, which turns the gem on to energize the relays.

It will not show 12V on the switch side when uncoupled from the door jamb connector. How could it with the wires disconnected? However the opposite side will, if you have the door jamb connector unplugged, you can also measure for 12V there on the quarter panel side, on the contact corresponding to the blue/black wire.

If it is difficult to determine which wire that is, you can measure between chassis ground and any/all pins on the connector, and one should be 12V. If none are 12V with the key in the accessory position, the problem is upstream of that. Of course this requires your probe to be small enough to get into the connector.

Sorry, sloppy writing on my part. Yes, testing on the chassis side of the connector when uncoupled from the door is what I was asking.

Thanks for your feedback. I'll check this out and report what I find.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You could also jumper power to the blue/black and see if they work.

 

[Bluemach1]

You could also jumper power to the blue/black and see if they work.

Thanks. I do have a power supply and can try that as well.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Thanks. I do have a power supply and can try that as well.

A power supply wouldn’t work unless you bond the grounds. You’d also potentially double the voltage if done wrong. I’d jumper from the cars 12v unless you remove the battery.