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Finally passed emissions -- by cheating

Austin Healey

Member
Joined
October 8, 2016
Messages
42
Reaction score
12
Location
Northern Virginia
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Ford Explorer XLT
The registration for my '97 Explorer XLT w/ the 4.0 OHC engine expired in December, and it's taken me six months to renew it, sneaking out occasionally to drive it at night. (Fortunately, at least in my neck of the woods, the pandemic resulted in practically zero enforcement on little things like safety decals or current registration.)
My problem was that I couldn't pass emissions because the check engine light wouldn't illuminate in test mode when the ignition was turned on. Taking apart half the dash, removing the instrument panel, and checking the bulbs was a PITA, but the bulb was good (as confirmed by a continuity test and swapping with another bulb).
With three engines available that year, plus export versions of the truck, there were a plethora of wiring and pin-out diagrams. None of them matched my Explorer, so I was never able to determine the problem. Wiring all looked OK, grounds for the computer in the engine compartment were good, etc.
So I cheated -- ran two wires from the ABS warning light --which also does a self-check during startup -- to a bulb fastened in the right location w/ duct tape. Took it in for testing, passed emissions -- I'd checked to make sure there were no OBD codes -- and got registered for another two years. Then I took out my fix, to avoid having loose wires floating around behind the instrument panel.
My registration is for two years, meaning that to start 2023, I'll be able to license the truck in VA as an antique, which means no more safety, emissions checks or annual registration fees.
 



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Glad it worked out, though you could follow the circuit on the traces back to the connector, measure for power and ground there. I'd wonder if a trace break caused it, possibly a bad solder joint.

I'd want the check engine light working when it should, otherwise you may miss some future problems as they arise. Below attachment is what I have, doesn't appear to be engine-specific. Further upstream circuits connected are on the wiring diagrams link in my sig.
 

Attachments

  • instrument-cluster-instrument-cluster-circuit-1-of-2.pdf
    82.6 KB · Views: 84






Lol, I approve of this.

Stickin’ it to the man!
 






Lol, I approve of this.

Stickin’ it to the man!
As long as he isn't using this to sell it to someone else - good job.

And if his 97 is like my 98, then the next owner will probably be the junkyard. I bought mine new and will be driving it until it dies.
 






Congrats on finally passing the emission test!
 






Got a 95 that I use for a yard truck, and occasionally take it down the road. The airbag light and ABS light were always on. Airbag sensor rusted out of their brackets, who knows about ABS but likely a problem wit unit that would be way more expensive a fix for the value of this truck. Also, odometer is stuck (probbaly needs worm gear). No CATS and pretty much straight thru 3" exhaust.

My modifications to get inspection (no longer emmissions tested). Removed ABS dash bulb. Same for airbag light but a chime sounds when started with code. Sounds more like a seat chime, never questioned. I click a few digits on the odometer manually each year. Also added a restrictor plate in exhaust to quiet it down.

Best hack is to find an inspector you can work with. Many use the opportunity to up sell their services and/or are sticklers when it comes to inspections. Here pictures of vehicle must be taken by inspector for plates and dash lights. The Ex is a single rear plate (green) but some of my other cars are supposed to have front and rear (red). My inspector has zipties waiting for me so I can attach to front before I go in.
 






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