Retired English teacher in over her head (1999 ford explorer limited) fuel pump | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Retired English teacher in over her head (1999 ford explorer limited) fuel pump

lbaldana

Active Member
Joined
February 12, 2016
Messages
55
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12
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Explorer
Hi, new member here. Fuel pump went out a few months ago; no money for repairs, certainly not for fuel pump repairs. Though I've never in my life worked on a car, I've been skulking on this site for some time, trying to figure out how to solve my dire transportation problem. Here's what I've done so far:

1. Took out seats and cut an access panel (seemed more manageable for solo senior than dropping the tank)
2. Duct-taped edges for safety
3. Scrubbed everything I could reach through new panel

Almost there, or so I thought... But I cannot for the life of me figure out how to disconnect the 3 gas & electrical lines running to the pump. OK... I think I'll be able to disconnect ONE of the 2 gas lines as soon as I get the proper tool-- sawed off Sharpie cap didn't quite do it for me this morning! That leaves 1 electrical and 1 gas... Here are some pics for clarity and brevity:

Picture #1: a general view of what's visible through the hole. The electrical connector is upper left, right below the black duct tape.

Picture #2: a better view of the electrical connection. I think, but I'm not sure, that there are 2 connections here. The rectangular one helpfully says, "Push and turn." The space is a bit tight, so it took me about an hour to push and turn at the same time. It started to move, but then I wondered if I shouldn't instead disconnect what looks like a plug directly to the right of the rectangular push-and-turn thingy. I attacked it as much as I dared to with a screwdriver and a slim jim, but nothin' doin'. Decided to quit before I destroyed it.

Picture #3: Again, instructions to do something (hard to read) and turn. Again, I thought I should disconnect the line elsewhere, right behind the grey clip at the top of the picture. Couldn't figure it out, was afraid to destroy it. See picture #1 for a better view of the grey clip.

Picture #4: The one connection I think I could handle, with the right tool.

I'll stop here for now. I have other questions relating to OHV/SOHC and what pump to buy, but I'll wait until I get these lines off first. Thanks, all.

I would really appreciate any pointers you can offer. I've been walking and busing everywhere and hauling 50-lb bags of animal feed in a makeshift cart. Soon I'll have to start hauling firewood!

IMG_4212.JPG IMG_4215.JPG IMG_4216.JPG IMG_4217.JPG
 



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Even though you have the access panel I’d skip the cheap pumps like the Airtex, Bosch is the way to go unless you want to do this again before too long.
 






You will, (I think), have to remove that fuel line. Special tool required, available at auto parts store.

Idea: Before you begin trying to remove the fuel line(s), it would be a good idea to pull the fuel pump relay and start your engine. This will remove the fuel pressure from the system, which should make things easier and less messy. Your truck will not run very long, if at all. Since you have a nonfunctioning fuel pump, your fuel lines are now almost certainly already cleared of pressure. Still, this idea might help with fuel filter connector removal at later time. When you are completely finished, you will need to put the fuel pump relay back.

For fuel line removal, use penetrating oil and maybe some light grease to lubricate “quick release” connection during removal. Push connector toward tank -instead of pulling it away- then insert and rotate the special removal. I believe that trying the special tool at different angles, and perhaps rotating the tool gently, helps free the connector up. When the special tool slides further into the connection, you can pull the connection loose. Then, with patience, you can remove the rest of the assembly. Do not use force in any of this process. This is finesse project.

These stupid fuel pumps fail more often than they should (I just replaced a Bosch fuel pump within one year, and have used my access panel at least five times.) Therefore, I just keep a second fuel pump and the special fuel line removal tool in a plastic bag under my access panel. Then the fuel pump can be changed in a blizzard on the side of the road with with just a small ratchet.

If you can, now would be a good time to change the fuel filter. A clean fuel filter will make life easier for your new fuel pump. Changing the fuel filter can be a nasty and annoying task, especially If it has not been done in years. Maybe it would be easiest to buy a filter and take it to Quik Lube shop. Or you could get tough and change it yourself.

When you replace your access panel, use the same size fastener heads as those on top of the fuel tank. This will help make things easier if and when needed again later.

Nice job so far. Your access panel looks well done. Also, nice determination and it is obvious you have done your research. You got this, and it seems you are not over your head. Congratulations!
 






Autozone has a complete kit -all sizes etc of fuel line removal tools.....you pay for it up front and then get FULL REFUND upon returning after use.
**ALSO tie up the lines you'll be disconnecting so they don't accidentally drop down below....
Good job on access panel... I'll send you a club membership card ...check your mailbox

FUEL PUMP ACCESS.jpg
 






I had a hard time removing the 6 bolts holding the pump in place. As EB4x said, fuel line removal tool is needed. I usually spray some penetrating oil into the connection. Push the tool in and also push the fuel line into the tool. At that point the tool should slip under the clip inside the connection, also turn or twist the fuel line connector clockwise and counter clockwise. So the line is free, then pull the fuel line off.
 






That plastic line is a tank vent. Only the stainless steel item is the fuel pump.
 






Hi, new member here. Fuel pump went out a few months ago; no money for repairs, certainly not for fuel pump repairs. Though I've never in my life worked on a car, I've been skulking on this site for some time, trying to figure out how to solve my dire transportation problem. Here's what I've done so far:

1. Took out seats and cut an access panel (seemed more manageable for solo senior than dropping the tank)
2. Duct-taped edges for safety
3. Scrubbed everything I could reach through new panel

Almost there, or so I thought... But I cannot for the life of me figure out how to disconnect the 3 gas & electrical lines running to the pump. OK... I think I'll be able to disconnect ONE of the 2 gas lines as soon as I get the proper tool-- sawed off Sharpie cap didn't quite do it for me this morning! That leaves 1 electrical and 1 gas... Here are some pics for clarity and brevity:

Picture #1: a general view of what's visible through the hole. The electrical connector is upper left, right below the black duct tape.

Picture #2: a better view of the electrical connection. I think, but I'm not sure, that there are 2 connections here. The rectangular one helpfully says, "Push and turn." The space is a bit tight, so it took me about an hour to push and turn at the same time. It started to move, but then I wondered if I shouldn't instead disconnect what looks like a plug directly to the right of the rectangular push-and-turn thingy. I attacked it as much as I dared to with a screwdriver and a slim jim, but nothin' doin'. Decided to quit before I destroyed it.

Picture #3: Again, instructions to do something (hard to read) and turn. Again, I thought I should disconnect the line elsewhere, right behind the grey clip at the top of the picture. Couldn't figure it out, was afraid to destroy it. See picture #1 for a better view of the grey clip.

Picture #4: The one connection I think I could handle, with the right tool.

I'll stop here for now. I have other questions relating to OHV/SOHC and what pump to buy, but I'll wait until I get these lines off first. Thanks, all.

I would really appreciate any pointers you can offer. I've been walking and busing everywhere and hauling 50-lb bags of animal feed in a makeshift cart. Soon I'll have to start hauling firewood!

View attachment 343051 View attachment 343052 View attachment 343053 View attachment 343055
You're not the only senior lady here - welcome, you're in a great forum! Has helped me a LOT!
 






The electrical connector is a quite difficult to manage. Do not stick a screwdriver to it though.
If you can reach it, the tab in the center top of connector pushes in. While doing so push the connector on tighter, then try pulling it off. Most ford electrical connectors are "squeeze to release".

Careful though. That is the pressure vent sensor. It's even harder to replace the sensor than remove the connector. The L shape makes it easy to break off.

Great job cutting the access panel. If you can manage that part you got this.
 






Thanks for all the prompt and useful responses! I feel a lot less gloomy knowing I have a small cheering section!

I got the 6 bolts off with no problem. I don't think I'll be able to wiggle out the pump with those connectors in place-- it looks like the electric connector's on a very short leash. I really wish I knew how to disconnect at least that one. Anyway, I'll see how far I can get the pump out tomorrow and will post a pic of what did or did not happen.

Actually, I think I'm going to have to disconnect all 3 of those lines because I was planning on replacing the entire assembly. I have no idea which part of the thing is bad. Also, my vehicle, like myself, is no Spring chicken, and I'd hate to perform this operation more times than I absolutely have to.

I've been looking online for some time and getting very mixed messages about the kind of truck I have and what pump will fit it. Vin decoding sites have also been inconsistent... Some say I have an OHV, some say it's an SOHC . Someone here posted that if the eighth digit is an X, it has to be an OHV, but I don't know what to believe. Also, every online store seems to want different information about the vehicle... I started out knowing only that I had a 1999 Ford Explorer and went on to learn that it's a Limited Edition (duh, I could have read the back of my truck), that it has 4 doors and 4-wheel drive (I guess I knew that...),..V-6 ...4.0L ...EFI... U34..., well, a whole new alphabet soup. The last vendor wanted to know my transmission code, whaaa?? That's when I put my foot down, to be precise, on that little X in the upper right-hand corner of my screen.

I was looking forward to getting the Bosch pump, but when I went to their site and plugged in my VIN, the pop-up message told me that it was not a fit. I'll look into the other suggestions tomorrow.

Mr. Alligator, thanks for the kind words, Donalds, thanks for that large picture, and Joney, thanks for the welcome. I have the feeling I'll be hanging around this site for a while... my finances say this Explorer and I are in it for the long haul & will be hittin' that celestial junk yard arm in arm.
 






The electrical connector is a quite difficult to manage. Do not stick a screwdriver to it though.
If you can reach it, the tab in the center top of connector pushes in. While doing so push the connector on tighter, then try pulling it off. Most ford electrical connectors are "squeeze to release".

Careful though. That is the pressure vent sensor. It's even harder to replace the sensor than remove the connector. The L shape makes it easy to break off.

Great job cutting the access panel. If you can manage that part you got this.
Thanks. Just saw this after I posted my reply. Very useful. Yeah, I don't want to break anything-- this is challenging enough. I might have to widen my panel.


hacksaw.jpg
 






Post #7 in this thread has some good pictures of the sensor so you know more about what you are dealing with.


I do not recommend attempting to remove the sensor from the tank. Even though the pictures make it look like the easy route. It must be twisted while pushing down pretty hard against that rubber o ring to unlock it from the tank. This will probably break it off before actually twisting it out of the tank.

8th digit x in vin signifies OHV v6 engine
 






The X in the Vin. Is OHV engine. My upper manifold has OHV on it.
 






As stated, yes, if the 8th digit on your VIN is an X you have the OHV... (you also posted "EFI" which I assume is written on your upper intake....which is ONLY embossed on the OHV ....more confirmation)
Something else to confirm, NOT SURE if this applies to you with your 99 but the 95,96 Explorer was manufactured here in the US, Canada AND in Mexico... If the first number of the VIN is a 1 or a 2 it's the USA / CANADIAN designed/specific one.... if a 3 or 4 I believe that was the Mexican design (COMPLETELY DIFFERENT and INCOMPATIBLE WITH US/ Canadian model Explorers. So check into this as well....sorry to throw another wrench into this.
 






You’re doing great, keep it up!
 






@lbaldana, good job. I am at the same stage of fuel pump replacement, but I have strung replacement out all summer. I plan to finish next week over my vacation.

I got a Bosch fuel pump as recommended by @Turdle
 






You will, (I think), have to remove that fuel line. Special tool required, available at auto parts store.

Idea: Before you begin trying to remove the fuel line(s), it would be a good idea to pull the fuel pump relay and start your engine. This will remove the fuel pressure from the system, which should make things easier and less messy. Your truck will not run very long, if at all. Since you have a nonfunctioning fuel pump, your fuel lines are now almost certainly already cleared of pressure. Still, this idea might help with fuel filter connector removal at later time. When you are completely finished, you will need to put the fuel pump relay back.

For fuel line removal, use penetrating oil and maybe some light grease to lubricate “quick release” connection during removal. Push connector toward tank -instead of pulling it away- then insert and rotate the special removal. I believe that trying the special tool at different angles, and perhaps rotating the tool gently, helps free the connector up. When the special tool slides further into the connection, you can pull the connection loose. Then, with patience, you can remove the rest of the assembly. Do not use force in any of this process. This is finesse project.

These stupid fuel pumps fail more often than they should (I just replaced a Bosch fuel pump within one year, and have used my access panel at least five times.) Therefore, I just keep a second fuel pump and the special fuel line removal tool in a plastic bag under my access panel. Then the fuel pump can be changed in a blizzard on the side of the road with with just a small ratchet.

If you can, now would be a good time to change the fuel filter. A clean fuel filter will make life easier for your new fuel pump. Changing the fuel filter can be a nasty and annoying task, especially If it has not been done in years. Maybe it would be easiest to buy a filter and take it to Quik Lube shop. Or you could get tough and change it yourself.

When you replace your access panel, use the same size fastener heads as those on top of the fuel tank. This will help make things easier if and when needed again later.

Nice job so far. Your access panel looks well done. Also, nice determination and it is obvious you have done your research. You got this, and it seems you are not over your head. Congratulations!
I got the chrome fuel line tools.
They gave me a fit.
I filed down (bench grinder and rat tail file) the chrome plating.
Applied tool as needed, PRESTO!!
Rotten , stinking Line came right out.
 






Very good. You are almost there, and you have completed the hardest parts. You are 90% done.

The next step will be to unbolt and remove the fuel pump assembly. It will come out, but you have to wiggle it slowly and patiently…. Just keep twisting and raising the assembly until you have it out of the fuel tank. Then maybe put a towel over the fuel tank opening to keep from dropping anything into the tank.

It will be easy to replace the assembly, or just the fuel pump itself. Then simply reinstall everything in reverse order.

You have done well.
 









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Yes, @Turdle . Please add wisdom for us,
 






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