Retired English teacher in over her head (1999 ford explorer limited) fuel pump

[Turdle]

Yes, @Turdle . Please add wisdom for us

I got nuthin except suggestion of a no smoking sign right about now.

 

[239]

I replaced the stock fuel pump on my 2000 with a Delphi over a year ago and it’s still going strong.

 

[outlandish]

Hi, new member here. Fuel pump went out a few months ago; no money for repairs, certainly not for fuel pump repairs. Though I've never in my life worked on a car, I've been skulking on this site for some time, trying to figure out how to solve my dire transportation problem. Here's what I've done so far:

1. Took out seats and cut an access panel (seemed more manageable for solo senior than dropping the tank)
2. Duct-taped edges for safety
3. Scrubbed everything I could reach through new panel

Almost there, or so I thought... But I cannot for the life of me figure out how to disconnect the 3 gas & electrical lines running to the pump. OK... I think I'll be able to disconnect ONE of the 2 gas lines as soon as I get the proper tool-- sawed off Sharpie cap didn't quite do it for me this morning! That leaves 1 electrical and 1 gas... Here are some pics for clarity and brevity:

Picture #1: a general view of what's visible through the hole. The electrical connector is upper left, right below the black duct tape.

Picture #2: a better view of the electrical connection. I think, but I'm not sure, that there are 2 connections here. The rectangular one helpfully says, "Push and turn." The space is a bit tight, so it took me about an hour to push and turn at the same time. It started to move, but then I wondered if I shouldn't instead disconnect what looks like a plug directly to the right of the rectangular push-and-turn thingy. I attacked it as much as I dared to with a screwdriver and a slim jim, but nothin' doin'. Decided to quit before I destroyed it.

Picture #3: Again, instructions to do something (hard to read) and turn. Again, I thought I should disconnect the line elsewhere, right behind the grey clip at the top of the picture. Couldn't figure it out, was afraid to destroy it. See picture #1 for a better view of the grey clip.

Picture #4: The one connection I think I could handle, with the right tool.

I'll stop here for now. I have other questions relating to OHV/SOHC and what pump to buy, but I'll wait until I get these lines off first. Thanks, all.

I would really appreciate any pointers you can offer. I've been walking and busing everywhere and hauling 50-lb bags of animal feed in a makeshift cart. Soon I'll have to start hauling firewood!

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Where are you located. If I was there, I could have all of those connections off in a few minutes. Really hard to explain how to do it since they're all released in different ways.

 

[Gary Crist]

There are plenty of people all over this place that a the drop of a hat will come and
help you if you are not that far from them....

Some people here even use their real name.....

Gary

 

[Tipis]

You're not the only senior lady here - welcome, you're in a great forum! Has helped me a LOT!

Another senior lady with 1994 explorer. Nice work. Retired history teacher.

 

[Islandguyhere]

Hi, new member here. Fuel pump went out a few months ago; no money for repairs, certainly not for fuel pump repairs. Though I've never in my life worked on a car, I've been skulking on this site for some time, trying to figure out how to solve my dire transportation problem. Here's what I've done so far:

1. Took out seats and cut an access panel (seemed more manageable for solo senior than dropping the tank)
2. Duct-taped edges for safety
3. Scrubbed everything I could reach through new panel

Almost there, or so I thought... But I cannot for the life of me figure out how to disconnect the 3 gas & electrical lines running to the pump. OK... I think I'll be able to disconnect ONE of the 2 gas lines as soon as I get the proper tool-- sawed off Sharpie cap didn't quite do it for me this morning! That leaves 1 electrical and 1 gas... Here are some pics for clarity and brevity:

Picture #1: a general view of what's visible through the hole. The electrical connector is upper left, right below the black duct tape.

Picture #2: a better view of the electrical connection. I think, but I'm not sure, that there are 2 connections here. The rectangular one helpfully says, "Push and turn." The space is a bit tight, so it took me about an hour to push and turn at the same time. It started to move, but then I wondered if I shouldn't instead disconnect what looks like a plug directly to the right of the rectangular push-and-turn thingy. I attacked it as much as I dared to with a screwdriver and a slim jim, but nothin' doin'. Decided to quit before I destroyed it.

Picture #3: Again, instructions to do something (hard to read) and turn. Again, I thought I should disconnect the line elsewhere, right behind the grey clip at the top of the picture. Couldn't figure it out, was afraid to destroy it. See picture #1 for a better view of the grey clip.

Picture #4: The one connection I think I could handle, with the right tool.

I'll stop here for now. I have other questions relating to OHV/SOHC and what pump to buy, but I'll wait until I get these lines off first. Thanks, all.

I would really appreciate any pointers you can offer. I've been walking and busing everywhere and hauling 50-lb bags of animal feed in a makeshift cart. Soon I'll have to start hauling firewood!

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Just went thru this with a 97 Mountaineer. (Exact same as Explorer. Just all wheel) Wont go into fixing. Some good suggestions so far but your biggest problem will be you'll smell gas after you get done. Use automotive silicone and put it on thick around the gas tank gasket. They don't make them anymore and I searched everywhere. Oh and please be careful. How you cut that access without blowing yourself up... pick lottery numbers. Lol. GL. Impressed. If u hv questions glad to help. 97 99 05 06 2010 x 2 Explorers. Mountaineer and an Aviator.

 

[Islandguyhere]

Everybody ok in here?

Turdle a quick question... 05 blew tranny fluid up a steep grade. Bucketed it out smelled like a forest fire. Thought tranny blew. Had a Tran mech pull codes w tran computer no codes. He is 99% sure if new fluid it will be fine. Right now no gears at all. I also thought the same because the trail line of blowing was only maybe 100 yards. What ya think. I have an 06 tranny available close by but before doing all that do you think it's possible non issue? Thx bro.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Just went thru this with a 97 Mountaineer. (Exact same as Explorer. Just all wheel) Wont go into fixing. Some good suggestions so far but your biggest problem will be you'll smell gas after you get done. Use automotive silicone and put it on thick around the gas tank gasket. They don't make them anymore and I searched everywhere. Oh and please be careful. How you cut that access without blowing yourself up... pick lottery numbers. Lol. GL. Impressed. If u hv questions glad to help. 97 99 05 06 2010 x 2 Explorers. Mountaineer and an Aviator.

Cutting an access hole isn’t that dangerous, and can actually be done in a completely safe manner. You just need to be smarter than what you’re working on.

1999 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 Fuel Tank Lock Ring | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Locking rings and gaskets still readily available… Your google skills need work, I found it in under 2 minutes.

Your transmission needs more than fluid. Any grade the truck can physically climb shouldn’t overheat the fluid until it pukes out. Anyone diagnosing a transmissions need for a rebuild with a code reader is a joke.

 

[BenDT]

I will also say don’t do a cheap pump. I “had to” do it last go around with my truck as it was early pandemic and parts were non existent.... especially for the impatient. The fuel level sending unit is terribly wrong. It shows all my fuel used above mid tank and without exaggeration, two gallons til empty. It stalls (out of gas) AT the empty mark and no light on dash. Also after a few hard off roading trips I noticed my engine wanted to die on hard left turns. The problem ended up being the sock on the cheap pump being made to original standards which was a service bulletin for the early models, which would come off when “impacted”. At low fuel levels it lost pressure and would almost stall. Same backing down a steep hill. Avoid cheap anything on these vehicles and you will be problem free for another almost 25 years.

 

[XLTrunner]

I've read numerous posts from those who have cut the access panel...but, seems nobody explains what tool they used to cut it and whether they shielded the top of the tank from sparks, cuts, etc. Also, assume it's best done outside where there is plenty of air movement to dissipate any gas fumes?

 

[donalds]

I just drop the back half of the tank and unbolt the pump from there
Change out the pump only

 

[EB4X]

I've read numerous posts from those who have cut the access panel...but, seems nobody explains what tool they used to cut it and whether they shielded the top of the tank from sparks, cuts, etc. Also, assume it's best done outside where there is plenty of air movement to dissipate any gas fumes?

I used what's called a metal nibbler (NO SPARKS and small cutting range) ....attaches to cordless drill >>> LINK
However there were a couple tough spots (overlapping metal / seam) where I had to sneak in my angle grinder / w cutting wheel breifly....but at that point I had 80% cut out with nibbler so I had good access so spread thick damp towel over pump/seams just to be safe. Prior to utitlizing grinder I also sniffed around and ZERO presence of gas fumes.

 

[Pete Deering]

I used what's called a metal nibbler (NO SPARKS and small cutting range) ....attaches to cordless drill >>> LINK
However there were a couple tough spots (overlapping metal / seam) where I had to sneak in my angle grinder / w cutting wheel breifly....but at that point I had 80% cut out with nibbler so I had good access so spread thick damp towel over pump/seams just to be safe. Prior to utitlizing grinder I also sniffed around and ZERO presence of gas fumes.

I had to cut the head off of two of the pump assembly bolts. I removed the tank and it was on the ground.

 

[Justinwht]

On the tool needed to pull the fuel lines off - the tool inserts into the shell of connector to release a metal spring tab.

I've come across three kinds - two worthless plastic ones and a metal pliers looking tool. That's the most trouble free one to use.

Spray a penetrating oil such as PC Blaster into the connector.

 

[C420sailor]

If you absolutely can’t get the QD to disconnect…

One of my lines (I have an older model with a return line) one of the QDs somehow wasn’t a perfect circle. Not sure how that happened. I couldn’t get the tool in far enough to release. I had to use a hacksaw to cut the hard fuel line going into pump assy (slowly, carefully, use lube) off so I could gain enough room to get inside the fitting with tools. I think I was able to use some picks and jewelers screwdrivers and such to get the QD to disconnect. I then was able to gently squeeze the fitting back to round with channel locks. Super weird.

Had to replace the entire pump and float assembly with a Motorcraft unit but they’re good pumps so

 

[Justinwht]

sparks, cuts, etc. Also, assume it's best done outside where there is plenty of air movement to dissipate any gas fumes?

I jacked up the left rear end, chocked the wheels, then proped up a box fan with wood blocks. If there were any gas fumes, they would be diluted below explosive concentration. A friend used a spray nozzle on garden hose for his replacement.

I like the nibbler attachment for drill. I'm going to replace my pump next month. I measured the location to cut using a junked tank I had on the farm (I'll look for pics). Even with left rear wheel hump and six inches to the right (towards inside).

 

[Gary Crist]

With the fear of gasoline here I've seen stop and think! Yes sparks can set off gasoline,
but, at a proper mixture.

One of my specialties way back when, was fixing the gas tank of them guy's Jeeps!
You dang off-roaders (this was a Jeep Mazda Fiat Lotus dealership) had rust spots,
sticks, hole you name it in the tanks.

I drained the tank best one can but, it always leaks raw fuel. If the hole was not too
big, then tie shop rags around my arms to keep the fuel from running down my arms.
Heat up a piece of metal with a torch way upwind till cherry red. Then solder the hole closed.
Boy did every one run!!! Vapor every where, looks like fog evaporating off the steel. I made extra money
for that stunt!

Why did I not blow up? The mixture was never right and no sparks or flame. So as long as
my fan blew fumes away the mixture was well above any point of ignition. Boy did I make a killing.

 

[gush]

You are learning how to become a car mechanic for new cars. Good work! I have had a 99 ford explorer for 17 yrs. I dont drive very much! Have had 4 problems with it and every time, I have to re engineer the car to fix it. First the fuel pump, similar to yours! When I replaced the pump, (That picture looks familiar), I had problems with the quick disconnect fuel lines (CRAP) frozen up! and spliced in rubber hoses with old style radiator clamps because I had to cut out the quick disconnects! You might have the same problem too, Then the transmission went out at 130,000 miles . Thy dont call it the "EXPLODER" for nothing! It had to be re engineered , if it didnt actually explode because the side of the tranny blows out a hole where the servos are! , NOT A RECALL THOUGH! Ford calls it an "update" and the oil ports have to be drilled out wider internally so that the cooling is better because of more oil flow! Now, the wipers and NO PARTS are available . The GEM is the problem! a nightmare ! I had to run a separate switch on the center console directly to the motor from the battery directly and bypass the complicated mess ford designed. I have a 83 mercedes 300 SD turbo diesel Fantastic car, Doenst have anything in the fuel tank except diesel, GETS 30 MILES TO THE GALLON AND WEIGHTS OVER 2 TONS.. I would put my car against any new piece of crap anyday. Everything is original and it has well over 500, ooo miles on it Never problems! and it is fixable because I have had it over 20 years. I fix it when it seldom breaks and I dont ***** either! I like to keep things forever but forever. for a ford, is not much time . Have a good day! Sorry I *****ed ! But OLD IS BETTER!

 

[EB4X]

I jacked up the left rear end, chocked the wheels, then proped up a box fan with wood blocks. If there were any gas fumes, they would be diluted below explosive concentration. A friend used a spray nozzle on garden hose for his replacement.

I like the nibbler attachment for drill. I'm going to replace my pump next month. I measured the location to cut using a junked tank I had on the farm (I'll look for pics). Even with left rear wheel hump and six inches to the right (towards inside).

Hey Justin,
I'm guessing yours is a 4 door ...? If so everything 'should' be in the same exact spot for your 96 as is on my 95 4 door....here's my old thread with some references / measurements to aid with yours >>> FUEL PUMP ACCESS PANEL 95 - 96 ( 97?) FOUR DOOR

 

[Justinwht]

Hey Justin,
I'm guessing yours is a 4 door ...? This will be my 2000 OHV. Had to deal with my '96 five years ago.