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Mileage: Reliability?

iitsfrost

Member
Joined
April 27, 2021
Messages
38
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Location
United States
City, State
Piedmont, OK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer XLT
I'm currently looking at a 2010 Explorer EB 4WD, with the 4.6. It's got 153,306 miles on it. And they're asking $8,995 for it.

If I do go with this Explorer, any higher mileage issues (mainly engine, and trans) I should be worried about?
 



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Since it has 153k miles on it, the two main things for me would be whether it has had frequent oil changes and at least one prior transmission service. I would definitely get a Carfax report on it and see what service records and accidents it shows. Also, it will tell where the vehicle has been located over its lifetime. If it has lived in rust belt areas then I would either pass on it or thoroughly check it for rust. During a test drive take notice of any improper shifting and listen for ticking in the valve train that might indicate a failing roller rocker. Check for bad wheel bearings, make sure all the functions work etc. It would also be a good idea to have it checked by a mechanic you trust with the vehicle on a lift. The good thing is the 4.6L 3V and the 6R80 transmission in it are very reliable if well maintained. With an asking price of $9k and 153k miles it should be nearly flawless at this price point, IMO. Even with today's inflated prices for used vehicles.
 






same as usual. check fluods, make sure nothing burnt, black. check suspension for creaks, any ticking. these are tough rigs!
 






Since it has 153k miles on it, the two main things for me would be whether it has had frequent oil changes and at least one prior transmission service. I would definitely get a Carfax report on it and see what service records and accidents it shows. Also, it will tell where the vehicle has been located over its lifetime. If it has lived in rust belt areas then I would either pass on it or thoroughly check it for rust. During a test drive take notice of any improper shifting and listen for ticking in the valve train that might indicate a failing roller rocker. Check for bad wheel bearings, make sure all the functions work etc. It would also be a good idea to have it checked by a mechanic you trust with the vehicle on a lift. The good thing is the 4.6L 3V and the 6R80 transmission in it are very reliable if well maintained. With an asking price of $9k and 153k miles it should be nearly flawless at this price point, IMO. Even with today's inflated prices for used vehicles.
According to the CarFax it had its first oil change at 5,705 miles and none until 79,080 miles when it was being sold again. I guess the first owners could have done the changes themselves in between those miles. Trans fluid was changed at 80,681 miles, and then after that oil changes about every 6k miles up until today at 153k miles.

I already test drove it, felt amazing. Had no issues shifting, I didn’t hear any strange sounds coming from the engine or the suspension, especially on my pothole filled roads. The only two minor issues I could find at all was the pedal adjustment didn’t work and the drivers side mirror was getting stuck and wouldn’t adjust to where I could see correctly.
Also I live in Oklahoma and according to the CarFax the car has never been owned outside of the state so rust isn’t an issue.

Other than that, I assume the pedal adjustor and drivers side mirror aren’t terribly big issues to fix. I’m really considering this one. It’s the only one I can find in my area that has “lower” miles and all the features I want.
 






According to the CarFax it had its first oil change at 5,705 miles and none until 79,080 miles when it was being sold again. I guess the first owners could have done the changes themselves in between those miles. Trans fluid was changed at 80,681 miles, and then after that oil changes about every 6k miles up until today at 153k miles.

I already test drove it, felt amazing. Had no issues shifting, I didn’t hear any strange sounds coming from the engine or the suspension, especially on my pothole filled roads. The only two minor issues I could find at all was the pedal adjustment didn’t work and the drivers side mirror was getting stuck and wouldn’t adjust to where I could see correctly.
Also I live in Oklahoma and according to the CarFax the car has never been owned outside of the state so rust isn’t an issue.

Other than that, I assume the pedal adjustor and drivers side mirror aren’t terribly big issues to fix. I’m really considering this one. It’s the only one I can find in my area that has “lower” miles and all the features I want.
The transmission fluid being changed at 80k miles is a very good thing. I agree that no oil changes might be a good sign actually. I would worry if the report showed 10k-15k miles between changes over showing no changes at all. The two non-working items you mentioned can probably be fixed by a trip to a salvage yard and/or a cheap part or two. You might want to read for trouble codes. If the code comes up that shows insufficient miles have occurred since the codes were last cleared then this might be something to be concerned with. Some dealers do this to keep intermitently occurring codes from being seen.

Overall, it sounds like a good vehicle. IMO, you are picking the right drive train. Personally, I wouldn't consider buying any high mileage 4th gen unless it was a V8 model. I would suggest getting the transmission serviced immediately if you buy it because it is due and follow up with services every 50k miles thereafter. Plus, you would be buying a 2010 model and these have the updated heads that use one piece spark plugs, has the slightly beefier 6R80 transmission and supposedly a better wiring harness that doesn't have the same insulation deterioration issues as the 2006-2008 models among other minor improvements. I decided on buying a V8 2010 Explorer/Mountaineer to replace my 2002 XLT about 2.5 years ago. It took me almost three months to find one locally so if you have found a good one at the right price then you should snatch it up. Lastly, if it has lived its life outside the rust belt then this is a HUGE plus. You can fix many things but excessive rust isn't one of them.
 






I'd agree with all the advice given. The 2010 seems to be a solid year. I'd also check the whole drive train. Also, if you can, find out how many owners it's had just for more info. I also strongly agree with 94Eddie, for that price and mileage it shouldn't have any issues, it should be nearly flawless. I'm not sure what the prices are like where your at but in Cal. I'd offer $7500-$8200. IMO
 






I'd agree with all the advice given. The 2010 seems to be a solid year. I'd also check the whole drive train. Also, if you can, find out how many owners it's had just for more info. I also strongly agree with 94Eddie, for that price and mileage it shouldn't have any issues, it should be nearly flawless. I'm not sure what the prices are like where your at but in Cal. I'd offer $7500-$8200. IMO
It never hurts to negatiate. However, I add a lot of value to a basically rust free vehicle so the $8,995 price tag might not be so bad. Add in the 80k miles transmission service and this is another big value adder for me. Back in November of 2019 is when I bought my current Mountaineer for around $6,500 with around 105k-110k miles knowing it needed a radiator and tires. By the time I had it sorted out (radiator replaced, tires and a complete change of all fluids) I think I was in it for around $9k. So considering the crazy prices on used vehicles these days the $8,995 price might not be all that bad. Especially if it is in good shape overall. If it is in good shape and the OP keeps up with maintenance then he could easily get another 100k-150k miles out of it. Especially since it is rust free and he doesn't live in the rust belt. Over this time frame the extra money he might pay for it today will likely be inconsequential.
 






This is the same truck I've had for 70,000 miles. Mine now has 140,000 and I haven't had any problems. See if you can start it after standing overnight and cold. Listen for a timing chain rattle at a cold startup. No rattle is good. Otherwise, they're solid trucks that will serve you well.

You may also take a good look for radiator leaks and leaking from the hoses under the rear heater core.
 






This is the same truck I've had for 70,000 miles. Mine now has 140,000 and I haven't had any problems. See if you can start it after standing overnight and cold. Listen for a timing chain rattle at a cold startup. No rattle is good. Otherwise, they're solid trucks that will serve you well.

You may also take a good look for radiator leaks and leaking from the hoses under the rear heater core.
the startup rsttle only affects v6 models, is yours a v6 or 8? if its the 8, i;d be all ears to hear baout this cold start issue!!! never heard about one before!
 






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