Looking to buy 1999 Ford explore need your advice!!

[Astrobuf]

Hello guys
Thanks for creating this awesome forum and meeting wonderful people here. I am looking to get a 1999 Ford explore or anything similar but I'm really interested in this one, unfortunately this car has salvage title and I am looking to the community to check if there is anything else I should be looking out for while doing my inspection day, and I will purchase the car report to see damage and other details.

Some things that I will be looking out for during my inspection today:

noises in the engine
check transmission for slips jolts etc
verify all electrics / features / lights,
coolant or oil leaks
They are asking for the price of $3,500 and it has 130000 miles with a Salvage Title.

If you guys have any suggestions on what to look at.
thanks
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I used to own an 4.6l 06 & now own a 4.6l 3V '10. I do most of my own work & am capable of doing anything to a vehicle includding engine & tranny rebuilds.

As everyone else has advised, the salvage title is a big red flag. The report you provided does not have enough detail to be very helpful. I'd want to crawl under it, look at the core support and other structure points to see just what was done to fix it. The headlights look hazy, so unless the damage was quite old, those have been on there a long time.

Pull the tranny dipstick. What does it smell like & look like. If it's burnt smelling, dark red or bright red, I'd be asking questions. If bright red, is the fluid brand new, trying to cover up a problem?

At 23 years, does the ac still work?

Given its age, suspension bits and bushings are likely shot. Do the front struts show signs of oil leakage?

In addition to the front end damage assessment and drive train flags sent, explorer's of this vintage often have bad wheel bearings. Replacing the rear bearings can be quite a chore, not a diy task unless you have a large hydraulic press & know how to use it.

Lots of leaking seals at this age, I'd be looking for rear-end seals, shot bellows on the half shafts, oil pan & valve cover leaks...

Good luck

Astrobuf

 

[mitch1204]

Hello guys
Thanks for creating this awesome forum and meeting wonderful people here. I am looking to get a 1999 Ford explore or anything similar but I'm really interested in this one, unfortunately this car has salvage title and I am looking to the community to check if there is anything else I should be looking out for while doing my inspection day, and I will purchase the car report to see damage and other details.

Some things that I will be looking out for during my inspection today:

noises in the engine
check transmission for slips jolts etc
verify all electrics / features / lights,
coolant or oil leaks
They are asking for the price of $3,500 and it has 130000 miles with a Salvage Title.

If you guys have any suggestions on what to look at.
thanks
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I would buy a 97-98 with the 4.0 OHV (Vin X, 8th digit) before I would buy a 98-2001 with the 4.0 SOHC (VIN E, 8th digit). 5.0 is a better deal any way you look at it.130,000 miles you're getting close to major repairs. See if you see new head gaskets. The other major repair is the timing chains on the SOHC. The 4.0 OHV has 30 less horsepower but it's easier to work on and more durable. I've bought many salvage vehicles. Your main concern was the frame bent and straightened? Were they able to align it? Look for abnormal tire wear. Inspect the ball joints and tie rods. Grab ahold of the tie rods, you shouldn't be able to twist them. You can jack the car up and try to wiggle the tires. Just the slightest movement indicates wear. Left/right, tie rods. Up/down, ball joints. Both directions, wheel bearings.

 

[JeffTX]

Hello guys
Thanks for creating this awesome forum and meeting wonderful people here. I am looking to get a 1999 Ford explore or anything similar but I'm really interested in this one, unfortunately this car has salvage title and I am looking to the community to check if there is anything else I should be looking out for while doing my inspection day, and I will purchase the car report to see damage and other details.

Some things that I will be looking out for during my inspection today:

noises in the engine
check transmission for slips jolts etc
verify all electrics / features / lights,
coolant or oil leaks
They are asking for the price of $3,500 and it has 130000 miles with a Salvage Title.

If you guys have any suggestions on what to look at.
thanks
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View attachment 434090
View attachment 434091

You'll have to deal with the Salvage title. I had to deal with a "Dismantle" title for a '65 Barracuda from AZ. That means the vehicle can never be titled or driven on the road again.

Here's my checklist - either "Fail", or rate the feature a 1 to 5 and figure out what your time and investment will be:

List	Fail​	Rating 1-5​	List	Fail​	Rating 1-5​
Frame & Body	​		Brake System	​
Frame-cracks, corrective welds, or rusted through	​		Failure warning light broken	​
Dog tracks—bent or twisted frame	​		Pedal not firm under pressure	​
Engine	​		Not enough pedal reserve	​
Oil leakage, excluding normal seepage	​		Does not stop vehicle in straight line	​
Cracked block or head	​		Hoses damaged	​
Belts missing or inoperable	​		Drum or rotor too thin (Mfgr. Specs)	​
Knocks or misses related to camshaft lifters and push rods	​		Lining or pad thickness less than 1/32 inch	​
Abnormal exhaust discharge	​		Power unit not operating or leaking	​
Transmission & Drive Shaft	​		Structural or mechanical parts damaged	​
Improper fluid level or leakage	​		Steering System	​
Cracked or damaged case	​		Too much free play at steering wheel	​
Abnormal noise or vibration caused by faulty transmission or drive shaft	​		Free play in linkage more than 1/4 inch	​
Improper shifting/functioning in any gear	​		Steering gear binds or jams	​
Manual clutch slips or chatters	​		Front wheels aligned improperly	​
Differential	​		Power unit belts cracked or slipping	​
Improper fluid level or leakage, excluding normal seepage	​		Power unit fluid level improper	​
Cracked of damaged housing	​		Suspension System	​
Abnormal noise or vibration caused by faulty differential	​		Ball joint seals damaged	​
Cooling System	​		Structural parts bent or damaged	​
Leakage including radiator	​		Stabilizer bar disconnected	​
Improperly functioning water pump	​		Spring broken	​
Electrical System	​		Shock absorber mounting loose	​
Battery leakage	​		Rubber bushings damaged or missing	​
Improperly functioning alternator, generator, battery, or starter	​		Shock absorber leaking or functioning Improperly	​
Fuel System	​		Tires	​
Inoperable	​		Tread depth less than 2/32 inch	​
Visible leakage	​		Sizes mismatched	​
Accessories	​		Visible damage	​
Gauges or warning devices	​		Wheels	​
Air conditioner	​		Visible cracks, damage or repairs	​
Heater & Defroster	​		Mounting bolts loose or missing	​
Interior	​		Exhaust System	​
Seat coverings and carpet not stained, torn, or holes	​		Leakage	​
Electronics, power, lights, function	​		Catalytic Converter	​

 

[Lee's Automotive]

i somewhat see what you are saying. however, i am doubtful that a timing chain issue would be the cause of most accidents. yes when the chain lets go engine locks up and as such could increases stopping distance largely. that said, i would guess there are way more accidents due to driver error than failing timing chains. that said, as an isolated case, i wouldnt be surprised if that has happened before. imo biggest part is how you maintain them, the OE guides can last 100k or 300k, depending on the tensioners, oil, etc.

Yep these things are very reliable

 

[DintDobbs]

@Smit789 The SOHC debate (whether it ends up applying to you in the future or not) will go on indefinitely. OHV is still the preferred motor by the crybabies- er, hardcore Explorer enthusiasts, who think 300k miles isn't far enough for a 25-year-old engine to travel. These are old trucks. They will invariably need work, sooner or later.

Save your $3500 and you could buy two or three 2nd-gens for that amount. Maybe if this truck pops up again later with a digit missing from the price tag, nab it then. Check around local garages and body shops, I see Explorers pop up locally every once and again (passed up one 4-door before the Limited came around), Facebook marketplace or Craigslist if you're so inclined, but I tend to avoid those myself.

At the end of the day, this (or any) 2nd-gen isn't necessarily a bad choice for somebody willing to tackle the potential problems, but the price should be about 1/3 or 1/4 of what it is. Best of luck finding the Explorer you want, we all hope you get a 2nd-gen! These things are a blast to drive.

 

[AngryPossum]

I'd stay away from it for that price. Offer $1500, If I may here, I recently paid $5k for my 93 Ranger 4x4 XLT 4.0 L last year with 130k miles on it, I couldn't resist. I put 6k on her since last year. I'm happy so far

 

[Jimmy Sport]

console arm rest is broken

Is it 4wd?

I wouldn't give $3500 for it that is for sure, I would instead look for a 5.0 explorer without the S title
Maybe $1800-2500 max if it checks out
Tires are good, trans fluid is bright pink and no burnt smell, oil is good, and there is no rust or huge patches of bondo
Make sure it was not in a flood, make sure it has its complete exhaust (the cat converters were not hacked out and patched back together)

And the paint is shot on the roof.

 

[DintDobbs]

(Sorry for off-topic, but relevant for pricing) @AngryPossum, a slightly newer Ranger with clean title in worse condition than my '99 Sport had an asking price of $10k, compared to the Explorer with salvage title at $3k (talked down to $2k, as mentioned before) back in 2017. Pickup trucks have outrageously high prices compared to SUV's. No 2nd-gen Explorer in any condition should go for more than $4k (ironically, what they were asking for my '00 Limited in near-perfect condition - they cut it down to 3.5k before sale).

 

[t99eddieb]

I don’t know if you found what you were looking for, but I have a nice ‘99 Eddie Bauer edition that I might consider selling. It’s nice and we’ve done a bunch of work on it and driven it all over. Located in west TN. uuchemprof@gmail.com if interested. Mike

I also have a 1999 I may sell before winter in the NE -NYC/NJ area if anyone is interested. Currently have three issues that are major...

1.) Pinon bearing making noise (so I think it is -hopefully its not the entire rear-end.
2.) Steering shifter is off a little loose.. & sometimes it go into park. - will fix this weekend
3.) Rust underneath rear

Other than that I'm willing to let this car go for 1k -probably can get a little more in a chop shop.. but it also has tons of new parts I've ordered like o2 sensors, extra headlights & a couple of extra door actuators.. It currently has 288882 miles on the odometer.

If you can get around the valve ticks.. -> It still drives and handles great on the road.

 

[C420sailor]

If your pinion bearings are going, just re-bearing the whole thing. Carrier has to come out anyway

 

[t99eddieb]

If your pinion bearings are going, just re-bearing the whole thing. Carrier has to come out anyway

I think its making noise because I've lifted the back of the truck a little with thicker shackles. Also, I usually take out the front driveshaft during non winter months to save a little on gas.

 

[Mbrooks420]

A pinion bearing won’t make noise because you put shackles on.

Pulling the driveshaft saves very little, as you’re still turning the inside of the t case, and the complete front drivetrain.

 

[CDW6212R]

I also have a 1999 I may sell before winter in the NE -NYC/NJ area if anyone is interested. Currently have three issues that are major...

1.) Pinon bearing making noise (so I think it is -hopefully its not the entire rear-end.
2.) Steering shifter is off a little loose.. & sometimes it go into park. - will fix this weekend
3.) Rust underneath rear

Other than that I'm willing to let this car go for 1k -probably can get a little more in a chop shop.. but it also has tons of new parts I've ordered like o2 sensors, extra headlights & a couple of extra door actuators.. It currently has 288882 miles on the odometer.

If you can get around the valve ticks.. -> It still drives and handles great on the road.

This is an example of a fair sale of the 1999 Explorer. The price is much closer to a realistic value, and the issues mentioned are more than most sellers provide. So $1k for a truck that has some known needs is much better than one you know little about, and the high $3500 price makes it not worth the trouble.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I also have a 1999 I may sell before winter in the NE -NYC/NJ area if anyone is interested. Currently have three issues that are major...

1.) Pinon bearing making noise (so I think it is -hopefully its not the entire rear-end.
2.) Steering shifter is off a little loose.. & sometimes it go into park. - will fix this weekend
3.) Rust underneath rear

Other than that I'm willing to let this car go for 1k -probably can get a little more in a chop shop.. but it also has tons of new parts I've ordered like o2 sensors, extra headlights & a couple of extra door actuators.. It currently has 288882 miles on the odometer.

If you can get around the valve ticks.. -> It still drives and handles great on the road.

Your loose shifter is probably a set of large gold torx bolts. They work loose under the dash and make the shifter pointer off, and make it hard to get into park sometimes.

 

[RoyKelly2]

You'll have to deal with the Salvage title. I had to deal with a "Dismantle" title for a '65 Barracuda from AZ. That means the vehicle can never be titled or driven on the road again.

Here's my checklist - either "Fail", or rate the feature a 1 to 5 and figure out what your time and investment will be:

List	Fail​	Rating 1-5​	List	Fail​	Rating 1-5​
Frame & Body	​		Brake System	​
Frame-cracks, corrective welds, or rusted through	​		Failure warning light broken	​
Dog tracks—bent or twisted frame	​		Pedal not firm under pressure	​
Engine	​		Not enough pedal reserve	​
Oil leakage, excluding normal seepage	​		Does not stop vehicle in straight line	​
Cracked block or head	​		Hoses damaged	​
Belts missing or inoperable	​		Drum or rotor too thin (Mfgr. Specs)	​
Knocks or misses related to camshaft lifters and push rods	​		Lining or pad thickness less than 1/32 inch	​
Abnormal exhaust discharge	​		Power unit not operating or leaking	​
Transmission & Drive Shaft	​		Structural or mechanical parts damaged	​
Improper fluid level or leakage	​		Steering System	​
Cracked or damaged case	​		Too much free play at steering wheel	​
Abnormal noise or vibration caused by faulty transmission or drive shaft	​		Free play in linkage more than 1/4 inch	​
Improper shifting/functioning in any gear	​		Steering gear binds or jams	​
Manual clutch slips or chatters	​		Front wheels aligned improperly	​
Differential	​		Power unit belts cracked or slipping	​
Improper fluid level or leakage, excluding normal seepage	​		Power unit fluid level improper	​
Cracked of damaged housing	​		Suspension System	​
Abnormal noise or vibration caused by faulty differential	​		Ball joint seals damaged	​
Cooling System	​		Structural parts bent or damaged	​
Leakage including radiator	​		Stabilizer bar disconnected	​
Improperly functioning water pump	​		Spring broken	​
Electrical System	​		Shock absorber mounting loose	​
Battery leakage	​		Rubber bushings damaged or missing	​
Improperly functioning alternator, generator, battery, or starter	​		Shock absorber leaking or functioning Improperly	​
Fuel System	​		Tires	​
Inoperable	​		Tread depth less than 2/32 inch	​
Visible leakage	​		Sizes mismatched	​
Accessories	​		Visible damage	​
Gauges or warning devices	​		Wheels	​
Air conditioner	​		Visible cracks, damage or repairs	​
Heater & Defroster	​		Mounting bolts loose or missing	​
Interior	​		Exhaust System	​
Seat coverings and carpet not stained, torn, or holes	​		Leakage	​
Electronics, power, lights, function	​		Catalytic Converter	​

I like this list! I have a similar one that I use but yours is more detailed, mine is a pass/fail

 

[t99eddieb]

A pinion bearing won’t make noise because you put shackles on.

Pulling the driveshaft saves very little, as you’re still turning the inside of the t case, and the complete front drivetrain.

you sound like my neighbor who told me my car will tip over if I lift the rear end. I have notice a significant gas improvement after removing the front drive shaft. - at least by 5-6mpg

This is an example of a fair sale of the 1999 Explorer. The price is much closer to a realistic value, and the issues mentioned are more than most sellers provide. So $1k for a truck that has some known needs is much better than one you know little about, and the high $3500 price makes it not worth the trouble.

I agree. I've been looking to upgrade to a used 2016-2018 model 3.5L V6 F150. And all the research indicates there is a possibility night mare of fixing other peoples problems if I get from a dealership or a mom&Pop lot.

 

[Josh P]

I have wondered why the 2wd models don't get 5-6 mpg better than the 4wd models with the front drive shaft installed.

 

[RoyKelly2]

$3500 for a 1999 is a lot.
From what you posted, it looks like they are trying to recoup the repair cost:

Estimated Repair Cost :	$4,603
Avg. Estimated Retail Value :	$2,492
Damage Ratio :	94%

 

[CDW6212R]

I have wondered why the 2wd models don't get 5-6 mpg better than the 4wd models with the front drive shaft installed.

The 4WD/AWD models do have the extra drag from the front drive parts still spinning, plus the TC itself. The 2WD's just don't save more than 1mpg or so in most cases, so it's not a big issue for these trucks.

 

[CDW6212R]

...


I've been looking to upgrade to a used 2016-2018 model 3.5L V6 F150. And all the research indicates there is a possibility night mare of fixing other peoples problems if I get from a dealership or a mom&Pop lot.

I suggest concentrating on the internal water pump issue with those. The high probability of the WP leaking internally requires extra attention when finding one, plus watching it very carefully to try to catch it before it kills the engine. It's a risk that all owners should know about, and new buyers.

BTW, the newer engines had dual injection add starting in 2018, in the F150 it was 2017 for the 3.7 V6. That better injection system is worth extra money to possibly stop intake valve coking that is common on the earlier direct injection engines.