The #1 Ford Explorer enthusiast resource for over 25 years!
Performance upgrades, maintenance, modifications and problem solving. Covering the Explorer, ST, Ecoboost, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar.
I'm not convinced cleaning the rust under the coil pack does anything. I'd be more likely to believe there was a bad connection on one of the spark plug wires and moving the coil pack helped.
Its a waste spark ignition system. Notice how there are only three coils on the bottom of the coil...
So my explorer was running a little rough. I maybe drive it 3K miles a year so I thought the injectors or something got dirty and tried some cleaners.
Decided to pull all the spark plugs and found this. I don't remember exactly when I put these plugs in but it can't have been more than 10k...
Just something to think about if you are doing a rebuild- gears aren't cheap. Figure close to $100 per gear.
Might be possible to find a junk M5R1 with the gearing you want and pull the gears if they are ok.
I read your post perfectly. I'm just trying to figure out what is different between first and second gen.
On a second gen you don't have to pivot the engine at all to reach the top bolts with an extension. Maybe the firewalls are different between bodies.
I did. In my first post.
My bell housing wasn't sealed to the engine either time I've pulled it?
If it is indeed the rear diff cover you should follow the RTV instructions.
I've had one leak when I just RTV'd it and bolted it right up.
If you read the instructions it says something like get all the bolts finger...
You won't damage it as long as you only hammer on the inner race and keep it as straight as you can. I would use a piece of pipe with a 2x4 block on top.
I don't remember how I got the output shaft bearing off, its been so long. I do have one of these but that won't give you enough reach...
I'm not sure if I would do it with that keyboard but I have had great success putting basic keyboards in the dishwasher.
You have to take it apart first, leave all the electronics out and put just the top half in the dishwasher. Comes out like new.
I just had a moment fitting for this thread. My job recently transferred me. I had to get my F250 and my Corolla back to NC. I haven't bought a car hauler yet so I rented a tow dolly since it doesn't really matter vs a trailer on a FWD car. I get to my destination at midnight and say screw it...
You're always using the transfer case, even if you're in 2WD.
The worn shift rail bores can happen to a t-case that has never been in 4WD. The wear comes from decelerating. The design of the case doesn't hold the rear output shaft all that well and over time it will push up on deceleration...
The output/main shaft are one and the same.
You might as well rebuild the tranny if you swap the main shaft.
Mmerlinn is incorrect also as to the output shaft being the only difference. The back half of the cases is different. You could probably swap them but you are also into rebuild...
As I amtodd said they are very easy to rebuild. I'm just trying to think of how you could lose fourth. It is one shift fork for 3/4 and also one slider for 3/4.
I'm doubting the slider would work for third and not fourth.
Those "nubs" for for lack of a better word touching my thumb...