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The shop manual for the '03 Sport Trac says that the brake line is to be removed from the caliper to change out the brake pads. Is there enough slack in the line to be able to do this without taking it off the caliper?
Just purchased an '03 ST XLS with 4.10 gears (axle code 42). Can I pump the fluid out of the housing with a pump to avoid having to deal with removing and reinstalling the cover?
I noticed that at 70 MPH it runs about 2500 rpm. Is this about right for the axle ratio with 255 70 16 tires...
Try Dead Link Removed. I used 303 before finding this. Works great on all vinyl, plastic and rubber surfaces. Nice matte finish and lasts longer than 303. Tell Steve "Gary in Houston" referred you. He's a friend of mine and just want him to know that I'm sending him some business.
Save yourself the clay step and try Poorboy's Polish w/ 100% Carnuba. Does a great job of cleaning and protecting in one step. It's very easy to use and the shine is fantastic. Contact Steve and tell him Gary in Houston sent you.
If you're not having any overheating problems now, I would not use it. The engines perform best when the coolant temp is in the 190 to 195 range. If the coolant temp stays below that, the PCM will keep the engine running rich.
I had a copy of your report faxed to me and it looks excellent.
The low OXD and NOX indicate that your emissions systems are functioning properly and are helping the longevity of the oil.
The TBN is a measure of the oils ability to fight acid formation. I would have expected...
A couple of items of note about synthetic motor oil:
1) Synthetic motor oil (those with a 100% PAO basestock) has a natural detergent action that will clean the deposits left behind by dino oil. These deposits will help weak seals and gaskets not leak. As the synthetic clears this gunk...
A synthetic blend is only about 5% (or less synthetic). There are no rules for how much synthetic has to be in a "blended" motor oil. You would be wasting your money.
With 120,000 miles, you may want to consider one of the newer "high mileage vehicle" motor oil (i.e. Valvoline MaxLife)...
The synthetic fluid is not the problem. If it was the torque converter, I would think that there would have been a ton of metal shavings in the pan when the shop removed it. At least, mine did that.
I'd have to go with the TPS first. If that doesn't solve it, you may have to get things...