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I bought some new drill bits but they are not making a dent. I had my son pound on the punch pretty hard while I held the window. No luck. I think I am going to try taking out the window to the point that I can reach the heads and grind them off.

I have a '91 EB and a 96 XLT. The drivers window motors went out at the same time. I bought two sets of beck/arnley window motors with regulators. The '96 was easy. The '91 is giving me big problems because I cant get out the rivets that hold the regulator to the window. On the '96, the rivets...

I have a '91 EB 4x4 with about 175K miles. I have replaced both heads and it runs pretty well. But, I get this annoying "clacking" noise that starts around 3000 RPM that I cant find. I have thoroughly searched for exhaust leaks, no luck. I replaced all my lifters recently when I replaced the...

It was a dorman front left. It has a plastic gear housing.

It will not. There is no problem will the motor having enough power to raise the window. It just gets to some point a bit short of the top and it starts clicking. It will go no higher

I have a '91 Explorer EB. I recently replaced the motor that drives the left front window. I used one of the Dorman window motors with the plastic case. I installed the motor with the window all the way up, but the first time I put the window down, it would not roll all the way back up. It comes...

I have a '91 Explorer EB five speed. I need a replacement shift lever for my five speed transmission. The piece I really need is the shift lever itself. If possible, I would also like the bolt that holds it to the shifter nub, the shifter boot, and all the pieces that go between the boot and the...

That is a very helpful article. I was thinking the same as Josh P: Make sure to get the shifter with the new (HD) trans so as to avoid the problems with the shifter nub being keyed differently. But this leaves me with a few questions: 1] The author mentions that the HD extension housing does not...

I have a '91 EB 4x4 5speed and mt transmission is starting to go. I am looking for rebuilt transmissions and I am finding that I can get the M5OD-R1HD (From 2001+ Ranger) for about half of what I would pay for a direct replacement for the M50D-R1 that came stock in my '91 EB. Is the M5OD-R1HD a...

I have a 96 Explorer XLT with the 5.0 V8. I recently removed the steering wheel so that I could recover it in leather. I reinstalled the steering wheel itself just fine, but when I try to tighten the two screws that hold in the airbag, the horn blows and will not stop. I am speaking of the two...

Funny you should say this... Yesterday morning was rainy and misty and it seemed to me that the "clacking" was better. This got me thinking that this might be preignition. I am just waiting to finish this tank of gas to try premium. But I am mystified as to what could cause it. The heads have...

The symptoms you describe sound very similar to what I experienced when my heads cracked. This is VERY common in 4.0s. They crack between the valves. This has happened to me three times in my '91 EB. I bought it with 137K on it and one head was cracked. The previous owner thought it had a blown...

I have a 91 EB with about 183K miles. I have just replaced both heads with new ones as both of them cracked around 135K and 150K. Yes, it did run that long with cracked heads. Apparently, I had alot of sludge because (on the advice of some smart guys on this forum) I recently used SeaFoam and...

I have a 91 EB. I live in southern california and I run a 180 degree thermostat. My gauge looks exactly like yours. I also have an aftermarket mechanical temp gauge and it shows that my actual temp is generally around 180 but goes as high as 200 on hot days under heavy load. When I had in the...

Great suggestions guys. I will try the cleaning suggestions today. My engine might be particularly susceptible to the sludge buildup at I have twice ran for long periods with coolant getting into the oil due to cracked heads. I will report back

Maybe this is another clue: Even though the car seems to run pretty well, and I only have the low oil pressure when the engine is warm, at all times, i start to get what sound like "valve clatter" right at 3000 RPM even though I have plenty of oil pressure, cold or hot. But, I dont think it is...

I am NOW running 10-40 with Rislone and Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I had considered 2-50, but I have not tried straight 30 or 40 weight. I am not sure if I am doing any damage. I have worked on Buick V-8s that idled at 2 or 3 PSI for quite a while. I am not sure I have the option to not "WING IT" as...

So I pulled the head and the #6 exhaust valve had about 1/4 of it missing. I got a new head with valve job and now the car runs pretty well. I am still having oil pressure at idle issues though. I think I will start another threda.

I have a '91 EB 4x4 with about 175K mile and I just fixed a bunch of problems by replacing a head that had a burnt exhaust valve. So now the car runs pretty well except that I still have an issue with low oil pressure. After I have been driving it a while, the engine will idle at roughly 700 RPM...

I have had both heads crack on my 91 EB. The large swing of the temperature gauge that you describe is one of the symptoms. The stock heads tend to crack right between the valves. Are you seeing brown stuff in the radiator?

So my theory is that my massive vacuum leak on the octopus caused #6 to run way lean until it melted the spark plug. The electrode then fell off and was crushed in the cylinder (probably the POP my son heard). The question now is whether the damage is limited to just the head

I replaced the pressure regulator and found that the pressures did not change except that the pressure no longer drops after the fuel pump stops. But then we pulled the plugs and found that the #6 plug was completely melted and the electrode was missing. I did a compression test and found zero...

Today, I checked vacuum. It looks good. 18 in HG at idle. I put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and saw this: When I put the key in the ignition and I hear the fuel pump run, the gauge shows 39 psi. As soon as the fuel pump stops, the pressure drops to 30 psi. When I start the engine...

Wow, you are right on top of this Sploder. The vacuum diaphragm you describe is where the disconnected hose was going.

Too late. I used my smoke machine. It works great. Turns out there was a hose disconnected from the "octopus". So there was a pretty big leak. I reconnected the hose and verified no leaks after that. I went for a drive and the car seemed abnormally smooth and quiet. Idle was smooth. Then, just...