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Me thinks 1,2 & 3 , front to rear are on the passenger side and 4, 5 & 6 are on the drivers side, front to rear also. Now as for ignition wiring you gots to be carful with double firing coil packs and all. jerry

I use a PC program and OBDII interface cable from http://www.obd-2.com/ . Cost about $100 and works well for 96 and newer. It does nothing for GEM, ABS Brakes or Transmission but the engine stuff is great. Have fixed many Fords with this one. Jerrys Repair Service - Jerry

I had the same kind of slight vibration problem in a 96 X with 4.0L OHV V6 as Explorerscout96. Tried many things to fix and never did. Was something in the engine or flywheel or ???. Had Ford shop test drive and they said that's the way they are. I test drove one on a used car lot - same thing...

Reporting back. Well I cleaned the MAF Sensor as described by another post on this site and I think it is fixed! Two days of driving and no missfire (or stumble or whatever) noted. It did act funny until the PCM relearned the fuel trims etc but after that just like a new Buick. And, frankly I am...

Will clean the MAF and report back. Thanks.

Sorry. No the CEL is not on and there is no codes. I scanned. The vehicle has 122k miles. I think the coil packs and plug wires are original. And no, I have not cleaned the MAF.

My 97X 5.0L V8 AWD AT is missfiring on what feels like one cylinder whenever the engine lugs down below 1500 rpm and the throttle is opening. Otherwise it runs perfect. Have changed plugs. Wires and coil packs ohm out OK. Also ran a tank of FI cleaner through it. Anyone got any ideas before I...

Yep, and you might think about making it a 1/2 inch drive socket too. Those buggars and locktighted in. Had to build a gadget to hold the shaft from turning to get them loose. My cheapie impact wrench would not loosen them. Cheers. Jerry

If I remember correctly these older EGR valves have a position sensor mounted on the valve itself. If so, before you spend $, pull off the EGR Valve and clean everything and verify free operation. A stuck open valve would cause poor idle for sure. Have had same problem on other older EEC IV...

I just to add my 2 bits about not being able to pull a hard vacuum. If I cant get a good solid 29 in hg vacuun or better I finially fill with one can of refridgerant. Then after I think it has mixed I pull another vacuum thinking that whatever air was not evacuated from the first pull will mix...

Just a heads up. I removed the front driveshaft from my 97 5.0L AWD to sort out a slight vibration under acceleration. Well, I determined the slight vibration was indeed the AWD Transfer Case but what I also learned was the vehicle would not hold when parked on a slope without the parking brake...

Yes, presumume have leaks fixed you can just pay for an R12 refill. Very costly. Last one I did we refilled with an R12 substitute called "Freeze 12". Also added a judicial quantity of make up oil. It worked out well. Have never done an R134a conversion.

Good question. I'm sure the Ford manual says use Synthetic. I've had two different opinions from the same Ring and Pinion shop. One said use dino oil and the additive for limited slip - the other tech said stay with synthetic if thats what it had before. Huh. And, yes, they sold a synthetic for...

A 4.0 L OHV huh. Well I had a 96 X same engine auto trans 4 X 4 Control Trac that had a humm/vibration into the floor boards and gas pedal at just some speeds that could not be removed. Observed the same thing in another same X. Dealer mechanics drove mine and said "thats the way they are". I...

Concur with Glacier991. Your type of refridgerant is now your immediate concern. If it is R134a you can just add a can or 2 and see if starts working. If it the older R12 loaded unit you gotta problem. But there are several good solutions. Let us know.

What engine do you have? if it's a 4.0L pushrod then I can add some experience. I'll wait for your answer.

And they are stiff to get out. Locktited in from factory. You will need a good way to stop driveshaft from turning (not mention if it turns will you propel the vehicle off the jacks? Has happened many times. Hurts! Jerry

Iv'e used another outfit mentioned on this site - fordpartsnetwork.com with excellent results. Sorry to hear about your bad experience. Just dumb luck I used the other good one.

Have you looked at the Exhaust manifolds on a 5.0L X ? Pretty tight with lots of weird curves.

Did you run the self test of the EATC? Press the OFF and FLOOR simultaneously and then AUTOMATIC within 2 seconds. I also replaced an EATC that passed self test but I thought was bad. It was good! Another problem (fan control module, another story). (sorry for the messy copy and paste of error...

Iv'e been using the cheapest Paint Thinner I can buy for about 20 years. Got it in my Parts Washer I got from Harbor Freight with no problems. For degreasing first its the Paint Thinner then a rinse with plenty of hot water and a complete dry - followed by some rust preventative. Tried the water...

OK, send me an email address to send the schematics to. Now I am guessing that you need the wiring diag that show the Control Trac 4 X 4 shift motor, dash Switch, GEM etc. My email is "griggs@centurytel.net" . I'll try to get the diag (as JPEG images) to you Sunday afternoon. r/Jerry

Yep Yep, it works. I'm just a little slow. I tried all kinds of copy and paste but not the XP print screen key. Thanks. Will now see if Canadian X still needs. Jerry

Not much help, but, Iv'e got the Ford CD Service manual for the 97X which has all the elec info you want. Problem is I don't seem to be able to copy the wiring diagrams from the screen to the clipboard. if I can find out how I'll send you the schematics. Cheers - Jerry

Well CW, Welcome to the world of 4 wheel drive explorers. I'm on my second one and vibration in the gas pedal is a common and elusive problem. First, My previous 96 EB 4WD with a 4.0 L OHV engine had the same problem and very few people noticed it. I did big time. I replaced U-Joints and...