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thanks, good memory. found my manual later on in the afternoon, specs are as follows: 22 ft-lbs for the bolts at the transfer case end 120-180 in-lbs for the screws holding the u joint at the axle end

if it's dripping, it means that the system can't pressurize which makes it less efficient... which can lead to overheating. fix the leak.

replacing the front driveshaft (between the t case and the front axle) on my '97 v8 awd. can't find my FSM at the moment, anybody have theirs handy or know off hand the proper install torque values? this is the shaft that has a U joint on the axle end and a CV with six bolts on the transfer...

no problem. i know i always hate it when i find a post where someone asks about something i want to know and then just says "nm i figured it out" without saying what the fix was. just to make this the full package: -the 3 bolts holding on the stock cooler have 8mm heads. get 2 from below...

Eh, I figured it out... For anyone in the future who finds this via a search, remove the black plastic cover around the hood latch and you can access the last bolt.

the external trans cooler on my '97 mountaineer (v8 awd 4r70w) is leaking. the one in front of the rad, not inside it. i've sourced an OEM style replacement, new lines, EFI style clamps, etc... but how do i get at the cooler to swap it out? do i need to take the radiator out? or the grille...

all this talk seems like people are trying to convince this guy to keep the ex... that's not the issue. his parents have decided that the truck's a POS and that they are getting rid of it... it's not up to him. i was in the same situation once, many many moons ago, and i really wanted to fix...

find someone in the US who can buy the parts for you and consolidate it all into one shipment so you only have to deal with clearing and paying for customs once

maybe he's trying to hook up a 6 or 7 pin adapter which has aux power for a dump trailer, winch, etc? if so, that won't work with the harness on the explorer; it is only pre-wired for trailer lights. to get a powered hookup, you'd need to run a wire yourself, add a fuse, etc.

i tightened my bolts down a couple years ago (including using locktite) but they loosened up again it was time to do the job over. however, when i looked, i found that one of them was totally missing. i have other cars, so i was able to take the remaining one down to the hardware store to...

Also, for anyone searching in the future... the S621E rear axle (from a '99 mounty) was a direct swap for the S621A that came in my '97 mountaineer. No more ridiculous noise! Problem solved!

being hard to remove may just indicate that the parking brake is adjusted incorrectly or rusted, so the rotor may or may not be warped. the way to test if it is actually warped, or if the axle is bent, is with a dial indicator to measure the runout as you turn it. from your description, it...

well, i got the lock bolt removed. in case anyone finds this in the future by searching: i ground the end down on an 8mm socket to remove the chamfer so that it could get a grip as far down on the head of the bolt as possible. came out no problem.

well i hope that they can literally glue you guys back together, or i will be figuratively all broken up!

Follow-up question: Are there any bright ideas to remove the lock bolt inside the old differential? It is really on there and it is starting to get stripped. I have soaked it in penetrant, heat cycled it a few times with a torch, tapped it with a punch, but it still won't budge. I am about...

you can't drill the plug now that the ezout is stuck in there. it will just break the drill bits. sorry, i do not have any helpful ideas.

i am a bit over 200 lbs and it definitely did NOT feel safe when I was up there :D

i am swapping rear axles (3.73 lsd) on my '97 mountaineer (v8 awd). old part is a S621A 3L73 88 7A23 with lots of carrier bearing noise "new" part is a S621E 3L73 88 9B06 from a lower mileage donor everything I can find says that they are interchangable and things are bolting up so far, but I...

when driving, my truck's made differential noise for about 4 years. it's gotten progressively worse, and now is to the point where it is not possible to hold normal conversation in the truck over 30 mph, or listen to the radio on the highway. i've put the truck up on jackstands and poked...

great thanks. i built myself a set of these today... 9 1/4" bolt spacing, so slightly larger than the war-153's. i'll upload some pictures later on.

thanks. i came up with a bolt to bolt spacing of about 9 - 9.5" to yield a lift of 2.25"... going to give that a shot tomorrow. if anybody is interested in the set of shackles that do 1" lift in the rear, let me know, i don't really have a use for them, so i'd let them go fairly cheap.

nevermind, figured out where in my math i went wrong

those warrior shackles are extremely simple, and i didn't feel like waiting a few days to get a set delivered, so i just made a pair out of scrap bar stock i had lying around. my calculations were a little off though, and i only ended up with 1" of lift instead of the 2" i had hoped for...

indeed... already 'fixed' and back on the road!

through some more searching, found the answer to my own question... so here it is in the interest of anybody searching for this in the future. for the 5.0 engine, the belt to bypass the AC compressor is the Duralast 835K6. here's a link to an old thread i found with the info. :thumbsup: