Search results

I would buy the chevy (whole truck cheap) cheap and take it where all chevys belong, the crusher.

It should be cast into the inner edge of the drum, but if you take a tape measure and measure it you (inside measurement) it should tell you the same thing. I would personally just get a buddy to run me to the parts store after I take the drums off as I have had problems with junkyard drums.

AIM Chassis Tech, here's the link http://www.airbagit-store.com/product.asp?returnURL=default.asp&ID=101724 these should work for 2" at the back http://www.airbagit-store.com/product.asp?returnURL=default.asp&ID=101720 one of these should give you 2" in the front

the 4 sets of numbers are ring gear size, 7.5 in your case, ring gear ratio, where I was suggesting something in 3.00ish range (just keep the numbers low), and your truck may have either size brakes depending on how the truck is optioned.

I would probably stick somewhere in the low 3.00 range, like a 3.23, if you can get it I didn't check. Stock your truck probably has about a 3.55ish rear end gear stock.

How do I sh Dan, you're right, around town the mileage will get worse, and as I said with a set of gears that high it will accelerate like crap because it will want to break the tires loose and smoke them. But I made that recomendation under the impression that highway mileage was the main...

I would do a shackle or hanger (shackles would probably cheaper and easier), and put a set of lowering coils in the front. You will also need new shocks as the old ones would most likely be too large. I will suggest going ahead and spending the extra 40-50 bucks (total) and invest in good...

I've done them, but I would suggest running a search on here or posting a new thread about just rebuilding the whole differential as the best way Ihave found is to get the bearings is in a rebuild kit so I would just redo the whole thing while you have the ring and pinion out. In other words...

Yes I was reffering to the differnetial. You could however since that has the 7.5 rear end (8.8 if it's a 4.0, didn't want to go back and look) put a set of numerically really low gears in it. That would probably help a lot, you should be able to get a set of 2.73 ratio here...

I will cut down a little bit of the parasitic drag on the engine so it should, although I'm not sure how much, what is your truck geared?

I'd even be leary about buying a new one off there.

Since you have the fuse out cut the belt for the compressor, the other accessories will drive just fine (don't thin kit's a serpentine, I haven't seen any with serpentines)

I would either switch to lockouts, or if he's got money and time SAS it, those trucks are really easy (if there is such a thing as an easy at home SAS)

Maybe a bad torque converter?

I have never thought about doing that but if I was going to do it I would use an extended cab, move the firewall back to get the length, use a set of fiberglass prerunner fenders to ge ta little bit of room on the sides, and drop the turbos down into the the front bumpers and cut some holes to...

flat black primer, rattle can yellow t oorange fade old school flames, 6 coats (at least) of flat clearcoat to seal it all up.

Used them on a buddies Ranger, just plain junk and not worth the hassle of installing them. Send me some dimensions, I bet I can make you a set.

I agree about the U-joints, best to replace both of the mwhile you have the driveshaft out, I paid $900 for a 4x2 4.0/AT/ext.cab/xlt in 2004, it was 2003 model, but I bought it off a woman who's husband had recently died and left the proceeds from the sale of the truck to his girlfriend. I...

You are going to get a lot more than 2 inches of drop if you flip the rear axle, if you need to lower it you need to have the rear springs de-arched, I can't thin kof anything at that mileage that should be a major problem though, but you may want to look at the ball joints.

Never knew you could rebuild a timing set. But unless it's a really expensive aftermarket part, an axle, transfer case, or complete engine (for really cheap so Ican afford to rebuild it) it ain't going no anything I own.

Definitely for the better, used timing set (chain, gear, or belt drive)= really bad idea

I have used them on big block fords and never really cared for them at all. I thought they were a pain to install (they usually require you to drill and tap a hole in the front of the block for the idler gear) but as Xan just said they are very easy to get wrong even though they do give you...

It was probably one of the "noisy" gear drives, although they all are a bit whiny. For that matter all of the kits Ihave seen say specifically not to use them with fuel injection.

I straight axled it and when I did all of it I had the truck completely torn apart so it was no big deal to put in an early Bronco D44 along with the Dana 20 out of the same truck, however yes I did angle it down a good bit as the AA clocking ring that came with the kit allowed me to do so and...

I am not real familiar with explorers as all of my experience is with B2's and rangers but wouldn't a Dana 20 have also been a good choice for that truck? I know when I built my last ranger (sorry, no pics, didn't think anybody cared to see it back then) I SAS'd it and used a 4.0/700R4/Dana 20...