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Did some research and while I couldn't find Ford specific data......looks like 100 second average for reaction speed and if low, throws code. Still no return on mine though.

Nope.....all normal

I know the code and causes....but anyone know if this is a "soft count" code that pops up after so many hits or a one and done code? Cleared it and hasn't come back after many miles. Of course I'll address if it does, but kinda shocked hasn't reared it head again. Thanks.

Got almost 140k on my 2003 4.0 Mountaineer and about to pull it down for seeping valve covers finally....getting the red light stink pretty often now. Going to replace front and rear tensioners while I'm in (with factory tensioners) and intake gaskets, but might as well do plugs and wires too...

IT did this once about 6 months ago and again tonight. After sitting till not quite cold, turn the key and noticeably faster cranking with hit and die, then crank the second time but still faster cranking speed than normal. After that all back to normal. Sounds kinda like when you hold the...

I know there's a million posts and I've read them...but never found one quite like mine. I have a 2003 Mountaineer 4.0 2wd I picked up from my FIL about a year ago as a beat around vehicle...only has 135k miles. Been driving it for maybe 6-8 months now daily to keep commute miles off my truck...

Different vehicle but similar issues. My old Trailblazer one day out of the blue went from running fine to throwing every code in the book related to O2, MAS, misfires, etc. Not enough power to climb ANY grade. Did a backpressure test on exhaust and was at 5psi at idle (should be like 1.5)...

Time will tell if I dodged a bullet.....I was expecting the worst. But for right now all is right with the world.....lol.

Background, bought my father in laws 2003 2wd Mountaineer to use while building a house. 130k miles and really nice, but transmission had a bizarre 5th and OD shift....sometimes hard, sometimes a shutter, etc. Of course assumed normal 5r55 issues like solenoid pack, servos, etc. The weird...

Yeah.....the 265/70/16 Duratracs are PLENTY big without lift....lol. No rubbing even all flexed out though. Look like QLs in my future.

To keep weight down I ordered 265/70/16 Duratracs instead of the 265/75's. Kept me in a 40 lb standard load tire instead of a 60 lb LT :( Hopefully they still look good.

Just a little update that I hope is the solution. When I replaced the drivers rear wheel bearing, I used the new Moog assembled knuckle part no. LK-001. Today rolling through neighborhood i noticed a tic....tic....tic that disappeared upon the lightest brake pedal. Upon more thorough...

2003 2WD Mountaineer. Had a bad rear driver side bearing that I just replaced, but now very randomly I get a faint click-click-click from the left rear only on higher speed left turns. I drive 30 miles to work and literally only heard it once when I hit a green light for a sweeping left turn...

Probably not a bad idea on the reset/relearn though. Tranny was overfilled from last time my father in law had it serviced so I hoped it was just getting air in the valve body and woukd smooth out but after 2 weeks I would have expected it to have relearned by now.

No lights and no codes showing or stored. Talked to a local company regarding a bad servo, but they said I woukd have a nasty 1-2 shift as well if the OD servo was worn???

After working through several ABS and wheel bearing issues on my father in laws 2003 Mountaineer 2wd, I'm finally down to the last item to address. I've searched ALOT, and of course there are infinite transmission issue threads with the 5r55, but I can't find another like my issue. I've been...

Just took a close look at the knuckle I removed. That rear clip that holds the pressed bearing in is beefy. I doubt I hurt anything but it'll be pucker time for a few days for sure...LOL

Alright....long story short....what a disaster. Like I said, sheared first puller center bolt. Found another and had my father bang the hub while I applied pressure on the breaker bar and every time he hit with the 3 lb sledge, it would rotate about 10 degrees. Finally freed up a bit and came...

It's off....I'll update once I regain the use of my hands....lol.

Puller bolt just sheared.....game over. I'm off 12, but nothing to be done. It HAS moved a very, very small amount so I got some adrenalin going....and pop went the weasel....lol.

Problem is there's NO more leverage to apply. I'm not a little dude either...lol. Read some of the horror stories of the center bolt or puller failing so really surprised this one hasn't (yet) ;)

Pulled everything down, greased the puller well, and went back to work at daylight. I literally have it torqued to the maximum my 230 lbs on a 3' breaker bar, and pipe extension can do. The lug studs are at a notable angle the puller is under so much pressure everything is deflecting...

I also bought one of the Moog complete knuckle assemblies they offer now. Gave $230 shipped. My press is in storage and didn't feel like digging it out. http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-lk002

That's basically the one I'm using....had to rent it down the road.....scared to break it...lol. I swear its moved like 1mm since I started but I think my imagination has taken over :) Closed garage and called it a night. If it hasn't broken in the morning gonna remove the hub puller and...

Broke a 3 ton jaw puller and have a heavy duty hub puller tightened as much as I can with a 3 foot breaker bar....it's not giving. It's soaked in PB Blaster and torqued as much as I can for the night, gonna let it sit and hope :( Hammered pry bar in between back of knuckle and CV under full...