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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving. Covering the Explorer, ST, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar.
My Tips
Just replaced my shattered OEM's with Quikstruts - Here are couple of tips: I used the 13mm ratchet wrench from this pack - http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-metric-offset-ratchet-wrench-set-94495.htm - its the perfect profile. l also had to hit the nylok nuts with heat (MAPP) to...
Had same problem many years ago - I believe Ford said it was a bad speed sensor - they replaced defective item and problem was fixed - don't recall all the details - sorry.
Good Luck,
K
Hi There - I can only think of the exhaust joint between the muffler and the mid-pipe (goes up to engine) - that would have had to have been removed to install transmission. I would start there - it might be loose or possibly not aligned correctly and forced together. Good Luck!
I agree with rocco123 - it's def. a knuckle buster - You have to get the rotor off - the ebrake is a drum design within (inside) the rotor. Don't forget to remove the washer on the rotors. Also, the adjustment spur will more than likely be rusted together if you cannot get to move - replace...
shipwreck17 - I sleeved my 5r55w - when you ream the chips are small - I used trans fluid as lube & to keep "aluminum dust" down to a min (FYI - I did remove most of internal components as a precaution). I machined my own bronze sleeves and went with a light slip fit and used retaining compound...
Hi Everyone -
I rebuilt my 5r55w trans early last year - had blinking O.D. light problem & codes - turned out to be a broken intermediate band , loose servo bores (i.d & o.d.), and a bad o.d. servo. (Thanks to Exp-Forum) Bores were sleeved, bands where replaced - servo was replaced (among...
Hi D-Mack - I screwed up one CV assm (half shaft) the first time I replaced the hub on my buddies explorer. Before reading up (@ the Xplorerforum) I used a gear puller to hold back the half shaft to easily remove the bolts. Unfortunately, I really cranked down on the gear puller. After...
thepotroast-- the bolts did have the yellow lock-tite & the black rtv crud. I am the original owner - never had them repaired or replaced until last week. But I did have 2 abs sensors fail while in warranty. Dealer took care of it & never really told me what they did to remedy the problem...
Heating up the 3 hub bolts helped tremendously. I used a mapp torch to preheat the bolt and a friend held the torch on the exposed bolt thread as I backout'd out the bolt. They were out in 10 mins. Also, not sure why but my bolts were covered in RTV & loctite.
diesel_s - Don't forget to replace non-re-usable items like torque converter to flexplate nuts, trans pump bolts (I think), etc..
Cheers,
K
Also - I mark everything!
Hi All,
I was wondering if any knows how much clearance is needed between the servo pin and the case. I will be making my own bronze inserts next week to replace the worn holes in the case. I'm thinking it should be pin dia. (12mm) +.0005in.. Is that enough clearance?
Thanks,
K
:Update...
Thanks Glacier - I figured - but my thinking was kinda like rotors on a brake system. New pads (bands in this case) - turn down the rotors (direct drum) & re-install. FYI: I went the safer route - I just ordered a new one from the guys at 800700tran for $10 - can't beat that!
K
Hi All,
I was wondering if it possible to resurface the o.d. on a direct drum. The reason I'm asking is I'm pretty sure my intermediate band is shot (metal on metal). And being that I will be rebuilding my 5R55W tranny next week (& servo fix) I figured I get a little advice first. So, my...