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Okay did the Band Adjustment but went with 1 1/2 turns out and does seem to make a difference as far as helping the 2-3 flare the RPMS still raised a hair but not as much before adjustment So I am going to leave it at 1 1/2 turns I believe only 1 turn out would be to tight but cannot confirm...

I have not pretty good deal though I have bought no name stuff off of ebay with no problems and some that did have probs the only thing I hate about ebay for stuff like this is that if there is a problem then you have to take the time to repackage and ship back etc... The other thing I do not...

Use Oreilly they would be good...

As for the Master you might as well go ahead and replace especially if you are replacing the Slave which if I remember correctly they are concentric and not external.. So replacing the master would be good measure but not mandantory just flush and fill with fresh fluid.

You can look at the Flywheel and see if its scarred like a brake rotor would be that would be tell tale signs that you would need a new one but if It looks good I would reuse it. You can probably find specs on it to measure runout or even call a shop and see if they would give you that info if...

I was thinking about that but I do have the bores updated with the sleeves etc so i should be good there. I did get a different VB when I rebuilt ti and was going to use the old seperator plate since the old one looked as it had been updated someof the circuit feeds were drilled bigger and few...

You would not need a new Flywheel if the Old was ok? But you say Auto to manual swap so is this the old automatic flexplate on the back of the motor when the aut trans was in if so you will need a flywheel.

Yea Got that Was really wanting to know if anyone has done it and had any issues I look at the cycles and the OD band is applied in 2nd then releases and inyermediate applies for 3rd and wondering if the delay is that maybe when od releases it gives to much slack before intermediate applies? I...

Hey All, I was doing some research and saw a thread where this trans builder will adjust the bands at 120in lbs in then 1 turn out instead of 2? He does this to correct the 2-3 flare or the lazy 2-3 shift. I just rebuilt my 5r55w and shifts good has servo bore update etc but still have a lazy...

Okay just to be sure you did make sure you got torque convertor bolted back up properly ? Also did you get a warranty for the rebuilt unit? So you select D and you can actually feel the engagement into D correct then you give it gas and no go just revs.. HMMM I would suspect that if you can feel...

Did you replace with a rebuilt unit or a wrecking yard swap? Can you get any gear at all I would start by checking the Range sensor and make sure you the selector is moving on the trans when you select a gear.

Manual page here are some shots of the front pump page and whats applied when.

You have to take out the transmission and Torque converter and then you can remove the bolts up front that holds the pump.

Also to make it easy for the bolts number 6 and 7 and maybe number 4 maybe someone else will chime in on number 4

Just the Harmonic balancer and the Jackshaft bolts are torque to yield which they say are just a one time use. Here is where I disagree I reused both of mine I did use some lock tight on them though. I think the theory is the bolts will stretch and you will not get an accurate torque on them. As...

Good Job Keep it going I finished mine up yesterday and all seems to be ok of course all I did was left cassette and front tensioner only and removed balance shaft chain. I used the timing tools to time the thing and it does really help.

I would think that if the blow off valve in the pump was the problem then it would have been there after rebuild. Although its possible the valve is sticking they recommend replacing when rebuilding. When I tore mine down mine was kinda tough to plunge but did loosen up after I cleaned it and I...

Got it Thanks for the Info

I cannot safely say that it will not cause any problems I have not ran it long enough not more than say a minute but did not notice any vibrations when reving up a little. Street rod are you saying I should take out the thermostat then fill up radiator then run it? I have never had any problems...

Ok got her cranked up and the initial start sounded crappy but as soon as oil got to upper end then it quieted down, Of course there was another noise but it was ps pump forgot to refill it before starting. I do have a squeak I think it may be the belt or WP I did not run it with coolant in it...

All most all back together need to put in radiator but have to get a used or new one I poked and hole in in on accident wonder if I could just use a radiator seal stuff? Wow I must say this is one of the most ass whipping jobs I have done when it comes to in vehicle service and the right cam nut...

I dont believe there is a keeper but I took a screw driver and drove off one of the link ends and then continued to pry apart a little but then realized that I can just get it off without having to remove the chain pin I was able to pull the chain off by hand and screw driver without much...

Chain off was able to remove link but really there was enough chain strech to get it off. Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the front cover? Thanks

I have not tried to slide the tensioner on mine is totally gone anyway I thought I might buy the part but thought if people have had success with cutting the chain then I will go that route. I would probably try to knock out a link then remove or use bolt cutters dont really want to use cut off...

Ok hopefully going to finish my timing job tommorow got the left cassette in no problem. I am going to post this question in hopes of getting several responses in regards to cutting the balance shaft chain. I want to cut mine because the tensioner is gone but do not want to take the pan off to...