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Me next in a couple of weeks. ... Man this is gonna suck.

So the torque converter locks up after the tranny gets warm but the OD band kicks in even when it's cold? That makes sense. I was told that the OD didn't kick in until the tranny fluid warmed up. Thanks for clarifying.

I hope I can explain this and in the end I hope someone can tell me if it is normal or not. I have a late model 2002 2WD explorer with a 4.0 engine and 5R55S tranny. In the specs for my Transmission it shows the ratios as: 1st 3.22:1 2nd 2.29:1 3rd 1.54:1 4th 1:1 5th (Overdrive)...

I used to live in town so by the time I ever got out onto the highway the transmission was already warm. Now I live where I can get onto the highway very quickly and have noticed that my 2002 Explorer with 5R55S transmission is not shifting into 5th gear when cold. (Less than 60F) If I just jump...

You bring up a good point. There was just one break in the traces on mine (green arrow) but solenoids A, B and C all had weak (thin) places on them that I touched up also. (160,000 miles) I certainly hope the new traces are a part of the rebuild but not sure if they are or not.

Just thought I'd share my solenoid pack experience in hopes it may help others. My 2002 Explorer XLT suddenly had harsh shift going into reverse and into 3rd. The O/D light was flashing as well. I knew the problem was in the solenoid pack after doing some research so I tore into it. After...

You'll never get it apart with a gear puller. It's going to have to be pressed out and in.

Paul, my '02 explorer is going through what your first problem was. Sounds exactly the same. O/D light flashes before it's ever put in gear. Just wondering if you found the answer to your second problem that you mentioned. Really interested in what that was before I start in on mine in case I...

Mmmmm, don't ya hate this sort of thing! I still gotta believe it's damage from improperly pressing in the bearing into the knuckle or the hub into the bearing. Biggest thing on reassembly is they cannot be pressing the rollers against the race with their press. It's probably a 20+ ton press...

Sounds like the bearing is being damaged when pressed in. They need to be pushing on the outer race ONLY when pressing the bearing into the knuckle.

That can happen on any vehicle. just stop.

You are right, it's not 'pressed' against each other. But my point is still the same and still correct. The hub and wheel can't fall off even if bearing goes out! The CV axle would have to got trough the knuckle for that to happen and it can't. The end. You are like talking to a brick wall.

Look at the picture. Like I said before, the outer CV joint housing on the drive axle gets pressed up against the knuckle when you torque the hub nut down. (red parts are pressed together) The splined shaft then goes through the hub and the hub is held on by the nut. The bearing is there for the...

lol .. whatever. Bottom line, the wheel won't fall off if the bearing goes out because the hub being pressed into the bearing is not what holds the hub onto the vehicle.

Now you are getting it.

No, I'm sorry but you are wrong. Think about it. The outer CV joint housing on the drive axle gets pressed up against the knuckle when you torque the hub nut down. The splined shaft goes through the hub and the hub is held on by the nut. The only way the the wheel is going to fall off is if the...

I've read before where people think if the bearing goes out the wheel can just come off. But if the bearing goes out that is not going to happen.

I recently had to repair a rear bearing on my 2002 explorer. Luckily I had access to a press and was able to do the job myself. I bought the bearing only for about $60 from O'reilly's and all went well putting it in. I've had the explorer for 2 years and ever since I bought it, it has had a...

I wished you'd of gotten those pics. That's what I need right now as the bushing in mine has fallen out as well.

I'm glad to have helped. Hopefully it will help others as well.

My cruise quit working a couple weeks ago then the abs light was coming on, but the problem with mine was the clockspring under the steering wheel. I'm not sure how the cruise deactivation switch would make the abs light come on?

Mine has both. The one on the pedal deactivates the cruise the instant I tap on the pedal. The one on the master cylinder I guess is sort of a back-up. I have to press the pedal down a good ways for it to break circuit.

This switch is normally closed and allows the cruise to work. If you want to test the switch to see if this could be the problem in a faulty cruise system, just unplug the wire harness and then jump the wires with a fuse or other piece of wire.

Seafoam is an additive you can add to your engine oil or to your fuel. They also make other products. I use to be a auto parts store manager and most all the mechanics around here love the stuff.

Yes the actuator is overpowering the arm that connects to the door and over time breaks it off. When I fixed mine I added a stop to the actuator using a screw and couple of nuts so it would prevent this from happening again. Also added a large washer for the screw to hit against. image upload