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Thanks. My plan is to grind off the exhaust nuts and not even try to loosen them. I am worried about breaking the studs at the head and having to drill. I will probably use a propane or MAPP gas torch to heat the heads and either try penetrant or wax (have seen good success with wax on...

Yes.. E12 was correct thanks. Just for the record, the lower engine mounting bolt did not easily move when tapped with a hammer. I will probably use a combination of turn and tap to work it loose. I personally think it is crazy that a bolt can become "pressed" into the transmission "though...

Well. after struggling for a long while this morning I was finally able to get the trans to separate. It appears that there was so much corrosion that the bolt was pretty well wedged even after it had gotten past all the threads in the block. It would actually spin but there was still a ways...

Hey Poker4me. Thanks for the reply. I removed both engine and transmission together and they are sitting on 2x4s on my garage floor. I have support under the front and rear of the engine's oil pan and have support under the rear end of the trans by where the mount is. The trans is light...

I sprayed penetrant between the block and transmission and removed the four torque converter nuts. It didn't do anything to help separate the two. The torque converter studs did move so it appears to be separated from the drive plate. It is as if the bolts between the transmission and engine...

Thanks for all the suggestions. I will spray penetrant along the bottom and maybe lift the engine/trans up so I can see what is going on down there. Another question. When I get this separated, I want to put the engine on a stand. Is there a standard for which bolts to choose. I guess...

I am not aware of any bell housing cover plate. I know what you are talking about, but I don't think this model has. There is only a solid bell housing, a steel "spacer" plate like a gasket and the engine block/oil pan. Don't think there is any cover plate and now that I have looked online at...

I am pretty sure all are loose. I can pry between the bell housing and engine at the top and everything moves but the very bottom. The two bottom bolts have worked their way out... partially, but, like I said earlier, one has stripped and the other just turns freely. Either way I would think...

i think there is something going on at the bottom of the block/oil pan to the bell housing. Maybe some serious corrosion that is keeping it from spreading apart. I think I will soak it with PB blaster from the inside of the bell housing. I guess I could understand if there was a steel guide...

Thanks for your reply Stic-o. I was under the impression that the torque converter would slide right off the trans shaft. That's the way it was on my 4r70w. I just checked out a picture of the torque converter and see that studs on the converter must go through the drive plate and I need to...

I just pulled my 4.0 OHV engine and transmission together from a 2000 Explorer XLS. I removed the starter and now have loosened 8 bolts and the transmission acts like it is attached at the bottom. I was able to back off the two lower bolts but they are behaving very strangely. Both backed...

The upper hose which is connected to the thermostat should be ??delivering coolant to the radiator?? and the lower is the return? In that case a flattening upper hose makes even less sense when the thermostat opens.

Ok. So condenser dripping green oil is a possibility. Another part to replace. Thanks

Here is a picture

This is a truck I am working on and the engine and radiator have been removed. The driver side of the condenser is wet and looks like it is leaking.

ok. fair enough. sounds like this is not normal. I agree replacing the hose is a good idea. My son had a 2000 mustang that had a spring inside the lower hose which must have been the suction side. The replacement may have been made thicker and the spring was no longer needed.

I am not surprised by your response, but I don't get the idea of what is happening. The cap has a valve to allow overpressure to go to the overflow and ( somehow?? ) vacuum to pull coolant back in. I would think that when the hot coolant first makes its trip through the radiator it would, if...

My 1999 Ranger ( same as explorer?) has a drip coming from the driver's side of the condenser panel. At first I thought a coolant leak because of the green color, but the radiator was removed. I guess this could be refrigerant oil with dye??? seems like a fair amount has dripped onto the...

I know this was addressed in other threads, but I don't get the logic behind the suggestions. I started my 2000 explorer with 4.0 OHV engine. I dont know what its history is because I picked it up not running. It starts and runs well. As soon as it reaches operating temp (and I assume the...

Thanks for the post on the steering. Moving it around without it running was exactly what I did.

I wanted to know the engine ran well before swapping and check for oil pressure and that the accessories were ok. I basically want to have a god idea of what works and what doesn't. Don't want to have to pull it from the ranger It will also help to be able to drive it into the garage prior to...

I got it running today. The setup to run from a pvc tank worked well. The only hitch was the first plug being shot out. The alternate plug worked fine. Was able to put the charged compressor in the back seat and run up and down the street

Thanks to everyone for the fantastic information and options. I am going to go forward with the canister and hopefully can post some results and some pictures for everyone's enjoyment.

Jon. Thanks for that picture. I started down that path and cut a hole with a hole saw and then saw how much more I needed to cut. Not all thin sheet metal as your picture shows with the seat belt anchor and additional steel running side to side. I have nothing to loose with the car being...

Setting this up is probably easier than replacing the pump... and makes for a good thought exercise and story to tell. It will not be that expensive either. I have the compressor and I think the setup will probably cost around $25 to build. If the fasteners weren't half gone on the tank, might...

I am really looking for any kind of information about what a reasonable fuel pressure at idle should be and then if I am able to get it moving to see if the transmission works ( plan on selling trans if any good ) for a short slow ride on my street, what fuel pressure I might expect in that...

Thats a good question. I have 1/2 tank of gas and the hose clamp bolts are gone and all other bolts are badly rusted. The gas is old and I don't plan on doing much with this vehicle except take the engine to use on another. The only reason to start is that I have never heard it run and I...

I was hoping to get some more help here. I repaired the starter and freeze plugs and a dead fuel pump is keeping me from getting the explorer running. i have a plan to bypass the fuel tank by sending pressurized fuel through an external container. This already exists in OTC tools, but my...

Finally made some progress on the truck. Removed plugs and was able to rotate the engine over easily. Still not cranking but I did take out the starter and it appears to be not working based on some simple tests using a good battery. The starter is apart and one of the four brushes is very...

I didn't get as far as I had hoped. took off the acc drive belt. Loosened the spark plugs but didnt take them completely out. That was a bear getting at all of them. I did swap the ranger battery without any luck. I have a couple hybrids so no high CCA batteries in those to use. I will...

I tried the battery that it came with. Was not old, but did say Economy on the label. I don't really trust it. I have a battery on my Ranger that I swapped. It turned my non-running engine, but that had cracked heads and therefore not the compression a normal 6 cyl would have. I may have...

Appreciate all the replies. I am going to attempt to clean up the battery terminals and starter connections. Pull plugs and attempt to rotate the engine. It has been sitting a little over a year. Might be a good idea to buy and spray some fogging oil in the cylinders and manually turn the...

Hello forum members I joined to get some help from Explorer experts and owners to help me get an Explorer running so that I can determine if this low mileage truck is a good candidate to supply its 4.0L OHV engine for my 1999 Ford Ranger. I currently have a no crank situation which could be...

Hello forum members. I just picked up a 2000 Ford Explorer that I am going to use to get my Ranger back on the road. I joined the forum because I it is not running and I will probably look to some of the experts here for guidance on getting it going enough so I can evaluate it "donor" status...