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There is a drain plug on the transmission.

I always wondered if the TC tensioner applies too much tension on the WP causing the WP bearing to deflect and ruin the seal prematurely.

I am not sure better oil will prevent the TC tensioner from premature failure or help prevent some timing chain stretch.

Yeah, could be. I think people have to pay attention to 2 things relating to this issue. Coolant levels, and start up noise. I think a lot of people ignore the start up timing chain rattle, thinking it's normal.

From my understanding, the coolant side bearing seal of the WP fails allowing coolant to first enter the bearings, then the oil side seal fails, allowing coolant to enter engine oil. Once the WP coolant side seal fails, the cascade of failure is pretty quick, since the coolant system is...

add me to the list for the AC Line leak near the rear evaporator.....Im going to bring it in to my local mechanic to see if he can splice, or solder it. If not, he will have to replace the line.

this might be a silly question, but is the WP bearing sealed? Im just curious how it is lubricated.

FYI, you can go with 9011 bulbs which are brighter. You just have to trim the tabs slightly to make them fit in the 9005 socket. I made this change and saw a good amount of additional brightness. Best halogen headlight bulbs, 9005 or 9011?

Around 87k now. I'll probably change the PTU fluid again soon.

Just to expand on your thoughts and my experience, we purchased our 2013 with 67k miles on the odo. Pretty early after we owned it, I would smell the telltale propane like smell. I even think I saw a black drip of oil on the garage floor. After researching the issue, I was pumped out the PTU...

Once the fluid goes bad, it turns to sludge and overheats easily. It tends to start spitting out the vent hole once it starts going bad. A lot of people don't notice this happening before the PTU destroys itself. Luckily, royski might have caught it early enough that the PTU wasn't damaged...

Im not thrilled to see a few 2013s with failed water pumps. I was hoping the updated pump/gear/timing chain was going to help mitigate the failures. I guess we will see if this trend continues.

Not sure what dealer means by "adjusted programming for cam sensor". When you go in, get detailed info.

You could hear the bad grinding during hard stops or multiple consecutive stops. During regular driving, it wasn't really apparent. It was frustrating at first because the pads had plenty left, but I never had considered a hole in the rotor. I finally just decided to do a full brake job with...

Another uncommon/strange thing to consider. I have a 2013 Ex that had a grinding sound on braking. As it turns out, the front rotor had a rust hole. The hole was on the inner side of the rotor, so it was hard to see. Make sure you look and or feel both sides of the rotor.

Option 3, IMHO. Assuming they have the correct oil filter. There is nothing complicated about an oil change on the explorer.

Try an experiment and set your car alarm while sitting in the Ex. Press the Homelink button and see if the garage door opens. I assume when the car alarm is active, the Homelink shouldn't work.

Turbos have a blow off valve to release the excess pressure when you decelerate. I wonder if that is what you are hearing.

which engine for the XLT? For the 3.5 N/A, you can get the 3.39 or the 3.65. For the 2.3 EB, you can get the 3.36 or the 3.51. The gear choices didn't change for 2017 or 2018.

3.39 versus 3.65 gearing?

When was the battery replaced last? I know for most newer vehicles, when the battery drops below a certain voltage, the dash indicators light up since some of the sensors aren't getting the voltage they require. If you haven't replaced the battery for some time, go ahead and replace it.

I changed radiator fluid and transmission fluid at 75k. I am not waiting until 150k either.

Watch this video on how to check your Ex for basic worn front suspension components.

I am not sure what you mean by the steering wheel "sticking", but if your Ex wanders at highway speed, usually, it's an alignment issue(not enough toe in). This is assuming you have no other issues with the suspension, like tie rods, control arms, sway bar end links, etc. Are there any clunks...

Have you checked your oil? If the oil level is ok, I suspect a PTU leak.

Dang, you did the work yourself? Nice job Interesting, I thought even the older water pumps had double gaskets on the outer flange.

There are too many factors involved to try and determine what the average water pump life expectancy is. The water pump may be sensitive to factors which exacerbate design weaknesses. Maybe those with failures idled their engines for long periods, maybe the owners put additional additives in...

Sounds like a bunch of crap to me. If there is a hole in the blend door, they need to explain how it got there. IMO, find another dealer.

IMO, I think it is best to change the PTU oil early in its service life, then every 15-30k based on usage, similar to a differential. Especially when you consider, gear break-in, manufacturing contaminants, so on. There is no requirement in the service manual to change the "lifetime" ptu oil...

If your engine was destroyed after a water pump failure, would they really replace the engine through the warranty? I figure Ford would blame you for not knowing the water pump failed and destroying the engine....denying the claim.

Yeah, you will take a mpg hit with e85. Are you relying on the explorer to give you your mpg or are you hand calculating? Hand calculation will be more accurate than the Ex's mpg computer. I get around 18-20 mixed driving.

yup, check both sides and the middle. Clean off the area and seal with a good quality clear marine sealant. Should be no more leak.

yeah, it is. I got a pump specifically for this job.

Change out your fluid at regular intervals, say 30k and you should be fine.

One thing that wasn't mentioned....If you want to tow the top rated 5000lbs, you need the 3.5 N/A or 3.5 Ecoboost engine with the HD tow package installed from the factory.

Another video. at about 1:12 in the video, he runs the engine and you can see coolant coming out the weep hole.

You can see the location of the weep hole in this video.

It is internal for the sport too. In your case, the coolant must have started leaking out the weep hole, which gave you enough warning of impending failure.

I am having this issue intermittently and was wondering if there is a solution. Instead of just the honk, or lights, I have it start briefly, then turn off after a second. Based on Ford's website, I wonder if it is a low voltage issue from the Explorer's battery. The remote start system will...

I wish there was some way, sans tearing down my motor, to tell if I have the upgraded timing chain/water pump design.