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How about the intermediate shaft movement? Is it supposed to be c-clipped on the other end or just splined together which allowed the float. It pulled out maybe 3 inches then I had to line it back to pop it back in.

Does the theft light come on within the gauge cluster?

Nice ones can be a challenge. Even the nice ones seem to need a lot of front end and rear suspension work that even original owners didn't completely do.

Replacement Motorcraft Thermostat worked like a charm, temps are right on my scanner and dash gauge now in the middle range. Amazing how much better she runs too, felt like my 2013 Fusion in terms of how smooth the engine was and much better takeoff from stops and overall acceleration.

Kind of started to see that in my fuel trim data too, long term was approaching 10% where normally it stayed below 6%.

Good point, glad I don't have to drive it again until the Thermostat arrives tomorrow, Amazon had the best price for Motorcraft at $22.

Kind of what I was leaning to. Do I need to go Motorcraft or will off the shelf in a parts store do and if so what brands should I look for or avoid?

Noticed driving in winter weather more this week that my 2001 4.0 SOHC is running on the cool side. The needle on the temperature dash gauge never goes much above the low line. Ran my scanner while driving and it never got above 170 degrees even at highway speeds 65-70mph. Upper radiator hose...

Yep works on mine like that. Click on, click off, repeat over and over. Only really noticeable when stopped.

2001 XLT 4x4 coming up on 145K, I'm the 2nd owner since 135K. Had a flawless documented history of maintenance, adult driven, and had all recalls done early on from new. Interestingly the intake manifold and gaskets was replaced by Ford at 10K miles in its first year. One of the first things...

Bad day for someone who put this on the rack. Hopefully no one was hurt. Shop will be fixing more than they bargained for free now.

I'm impressed if it's a 4.0 sohc with that mileage. Must have had really good maintenance and granny driven by previous owner.

Says 1999 in the header.

I'd suggest change the oil and filter, and run for codes then. If nothing pops up drive it and enjoy it. You can't change the history of the engine now, however to get it to that mileage it must have had some decent level of care.

Lot of miles, how was the maintenance on it over its life? How does it run now? Any codes? Have you ever looked at live data and fuel trims to tell anything about how it's running? Ever had a compression test? How are the timing chain tensioners, were they replaced about every 70K or so?

Mines an '01 but I think the system is the same, and what I feel in the Auto setting sounds similar to what you're describing and mine is working fine. Have you had it tested, wheels off the ground? Or are you referring to the spinning of front and back wheels simultaneously which is possible...

I found mine was better off in the Auto setting vs 4HI, kicked in when needed and chewed it up nicely. Went driving more yesterday and today and it's great. The 1st and 2nd Gens continue to be impressive in their capabilities.

Made it out into the streets! Hellacious snow and deep in a lot of spots. Drove on a few main roads and side streets and it was really bad, but the X handled it like a champ in 4HI but still never went above 20mph and was the only thing out there except for the plows.

Pretty heavy snow in central MD, up to the body on my X. Made it a few feet in reverse in 4wd before it got stuck and had to dig it out. Once I dig out the rest of the 100' or so to the main road it looks ok, just too much to drive over without shoveling.

Cheers from across the bay! Couple of questions: What are the symptoms? How often do you change the fluid? Have you tried replacing the external cooler, it's really easy?

Coming down good in MD. I drove about 20 miles through the first part of the storm home and it handled well. The Auto 4wd kicked in a few times and I could tell. Neat system compared to my old 1st gen that had to be manually selected, I would start to slide gently into turns, which I did on...

Did you do the sparkplugs and if so is the code still present after being reset?

Is everyone in the path of the upcoming blizzard ready? This will be the most I've seen with my current X, looking forward to the performance! My '94 13 years ago did incredible and ate the snow up like it was a dry road, can't wait to see how the 2nd Gen holds up.

Mines a 2nd gen and does that too, IIRC there's a low rev limiter in park on the 4.0.

Update Again: Even with both calipers replaced noise returned. Ultimately I replaced the Duralast Gold Rotors and pads that were brand new under warranty with the standard Duralast Rotors and new pads and voila. Problem solved, could have been a warped rotor brand new out of the box or bad pads.

Highly recommended to buy a Motorcraft IAC to avoid issues.

I stand corrected. Funny though I just searched again and all that are for sale locally to me are AWD 5.0's. With the base cost difference already built in I guess the target customer was willing to pay more on average than an Explorer customer.

Are you looking at Mountaineers also? I think they were all AWD with the 5.0 in 2nd Gen. Lots of those in Maryland on CL.

Nope, they probably wouldn't do much in an emergency as they just grab onto the inside ring of the rotor, but the liability issue would be hard to explain away.

But when you turn the shield moves with the brakes, wheels, and steering knuckle and would continue then as well.

I have two issues with this: One my family rides in this vehicle and I drive on roads that other people's families drive on, my ignorance of a safety system on my car cannot allow harm to come to anyone. Two if my vehicle were in an accident it wouldn't be very difficult to find that all the...

2nd Gens are all gone from Carmax. Oldest they have is 2006.

I'd trade that parking brake setup for a regular drum anyday. Those at least can be repaired easily! At least I'll probably never have to experience the pain again with this part.

I had enough of dealing with it and conceded defeat for once. The instructions they pulled up at the shop showed to do it with the axles in which I still can barely believe is possible. This was a "better him than me" moment between me and the tech.

Is your Heat/AC/Vent set to on or off? When on in any setting but the first for upper vent it will cycle your AC compressor which can make a slight regular variation.

Some rust isn't so bad. Only when removing bolts, but that's what cut offs and torches are for. My '01 would probably qualify as rust free structurally, but it did have some bubbling in the rear door sill on one side and a spot in the rear fender. Of course, I'm not looking for cosmetics, all...

Last weekend I replaced rear original rotors and pads on my 2001 Ex. The rotors were stuck on pretty good and in the process of tapping them to remove the emergency brake shoe pads separated from the shoes themselves. Getting the old shoes and hardware out was pretty ugly as they were crusty...

Best I can figure the boot around the piston was torn (original 15yo caliper, rotor, and pads on the rear) and the piston was sitting extended to the limit of its travel. The pads were down to less than a millimeter and the metal backing was showing through. When I replaced them I forced the...

Update: After isolating the noise to the rear passenger wheel I replaced the caliper on that brake, it was sticking as the piston retracted and advanced. Problem solved for $40 replacement.

Air leak past the MAF is possibly upper intake gasket leak. Does the idle drop when warm? These gaskets are known for contraction/expansion issues. Was the other test a compression test that determined cylinder wear?