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I put on stock wheels and tires for about a 6 hour drive this weekend. I averaged about 13.8mpg to and from our destination. Some mountain, lots of straight flat road through the desert. Probably averaging 80mph.

Had the shop install the wheels and tires, however I purchased and brought the new TPMS sensors. I think which sensors you purchase matter. On my Focus ST and the Explorer Sport, I did not have to program anything when I had new wheels installed. I get all my sensors from ShopTPMS.com

Actually, the TPMS monitor fault can be several things. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMevsqjSEIQ I have had no issues with my aftermarket wheels. I have had random fault triggers with the stock wheels... for no reason.

FYI - The DRL and many other things can be programmed from people other than the dealer. If you are in the San Diego area, PM me and I will give you a contact. They were able to re-program several things for me very easily.

Motorcraft SP534 through RockAuto.

I just wanted to chime in and recommend re-gapping your spark plugs if you have not done so already. I ran the Livernois tune for about 6 months before doing so and really didn't know what I was missing until I had them done. I bought new plugs, had them gapped correctly and had them installed...

So has anyone successfully replaced the factory sub in the factory enclosure?

I bought the Blendmount and the plug and play wiring that comes with it that utilizes the power in the power mirror harness. http://www.blendmount.com/ford-explorer.html

Yeah, I feel you on that. I won't go into details here. I've been in the Automotive Industry for about 20 years.. so I think I know what you are talking about. I went with them because of the price I can get through my channels. I had other options, but just too expensive.

Thanks. I will probably try it out after I order the Interceptor parts so I can do it the right way.

I am still on the fence on that modification. I've seen some photos of this mod done, and in some of the images it just didn't seem to look right. I've got running boards just sitting in a box too. Still not sure if I want to run them or not. Did not want to go through the hassle of...

25mm rear 20mm front I think 20mm for rear would be ok. I liked that little bit of push with the 25mm though. Looks like I just need to replace the bolts that hold on the fender trim with button head bolts to get away from the minor rub. If I went with 20mm, probably would not have needed to...

Thanks Billy. It took a bit longer as Toyo was back ordered on the rear tires and the wheels are made to order according to the specs submitted. I was not aggressive on the offset because if I had rubbing issues I would be stuck with them - So I went conservative and ended up using spacers...

Did you read them? They all come to the same conclusion. Outside diameter. If you achieve the same diameter then the rest is just theory until proven otherwise. Show me one example of someone damaging their transmission caused by a staggered setup within tolerance.

There are plenty of AWD vehicles that come with staggered setups from the factory. Examples have already been mentioned on this very forum. Peter this is also not the first time you have made this statement without any evidence to support your claim. Your calculations are also probably off if...

22x9 front 22x10.5 rear 285/40 265/40

Did you not rev the engine in all of the videos?

Also, there is a small tab on the backside of the rear covers towards the wheel hub. That needs to sit below the caliper bracket, not on top. If your tab is sitting on top, that is why you are having a clearance issue. Looks great though.

Make sure the cover is flat up against the caliper. If not, bend the brackets that are on the cover a few degrees and it will bring the cover in so it's snug.

Odd. I did not need spacers on mine. However added aggressive spacers a few months later.

Plenty of people run staggered on AWD vehicles. You just need to do the math and stay within a reasonable range. The difference my setup will have is fine.

It should end up 31 overall diameter rear and 30.3 on the front. Pretty damn close if you ask me.

285/40/22 265/40/22 But this is for staggered setup. 10.5 rear, 9 front.

Toyo Proxes STII

Ok. I believe I found some through Toyo and have already reached out to my contact there.

typo. Correcting now

I know what you mean. Quite a few wheel "upgrades" I've seen look like downgrades to me. Achieving the right look is kind of an art as you have so many things to consider. Wheel size, offset, width, color. Tire size is important for good execution as well. I care about weight as well, so...

I think it looks great just as it sits! Big difference, nice job. You are on the Explorer or Flex springs?

Livernois man. lol.

I just installed the Livernois tune last week and like most turbo vehicles, a tune is the most bang for your buck IMO. Totally different vehicle and drives like how it should have from the lot.

Just received my spacers from Motorsport Tech (www.motorsport-tech.com). 25mm rear, and 20mm front. https://www.dropbox.com/s/xfvmcaap24ijq8b/spc1.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/pe2a3frf1gnebl8/spc2.jpg Thought I'd share pictures for those thinking about going this route. Just temporary...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zta3rmmnw93tq6w/20140802_172941~01.jpg

Anyone happen to have weight specs of the OE wheel? Maybe one of you guys who upgraded have the stock wheel laying around and could weight it? I cannot find any specs online and would like to go to a lighter wheel if I upgrade. TIA

What do you want measured? Wheel gap? Bumper to ground?

I just got my Sport done with the EX springs and I consider the drop rather substantial. It does look nice and not complaining, but I think spacers are a must to achieve a good stance with the OE wheel. Mine are on the way. You do feel the road more, and it IS noticeable. People who say...

I have never been gun shy when it comes to spending money on mods, but 1k for some headlights? There are way too many other things I would rather do within that price range.