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does your relay have two sets of contacts? sounds like your strobes are wired on the normally closed side of the contact and when powered they open up.

It seems by this post that you hooked up a 12v supply to one side of the switch and a ground to the other. Am I understanding you correctly? If that is the case, the reason the wires get hot when you close the contacts in your switch is because there is no load on that circut. Heavier gauge wire...

It's mounted along the fuel rail and has a vacuum line running to it. Not so sure what kind of acess you have to it.

I'll back you on that Joey Rob

What is this "switch" you are reffering to and what are you trying to switch on and off? Not sure what you are talking about. Are you mounting a switch where the cig lighter was? and are you using the same two wires for the switch that the cig. lighter used?

Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator is bleeding off fuel back to tank. Pumping your accelerator isn't doing a thing, 'cept confusing your ECU. Next time try cycling the ignition switch a few times, between the run and off positions. That will prime your fuel rail with fuel.

Don't have a manual in front of me but I believe there is a anti-knock sensor that retards the timing when the engine is shut off to prevent the "dieseling". It threads into the side of the engine block. Sound right?

Similar problem here... Time to bump this thread. Let me run this by you guys. My '94 X has a similar noise, but only intermittantly. At first it started out sounding like a right side wheel bearing. Going straight down the road it would hum, cut the wheel to the right, gone. I replaced the...

I replaced the shackles this morning. It was a breeze. Took me around 45 minutes. I used the new hardware and the old bushings.

Hey guys and gals, I wanted to stop by this thread and say "HELLO" to everyone. My name is Rob and yes I am an X owner. Actually the X is my wifes ride and I have a '00 Tundra. In sort of a round about way owning the Tundra led me to this site. Let me see if I can explain, I'll try to keep it...

If it still ran,you would be more than welcome to drive up and use my garage :D

I'd take it one step at a time ggaarryy. Better yet, when you remove the hoses from the wheel cyls. see if you can crack the bleeder screws. If you can :thumbsup: if not you may end up replacing the wheel cylinders as well. After you make your repairs most of the old brake fluid will be...

hey MANZ, sounds to me like you are on the right track, and yes if my memory serves me correctly that is the connector for the fuel pump. I did mine about a year ago and it wasn't that bad of a job.