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There is a check valve in the pump. If the valve fails pressure could bleed back to the tank.

Sound like a bad pressure regulator, bad vacuum source at regulator or leaking injectors. Put your pressure guage on it and see if it drops over the 20-30 min. period. If it does then its probably injectors. While the engine is running disconnect the vacuum source at the regulator and measure...

Well, for now you can unplug the wire harness from the alarm module to prevent it from setting off the alarm or unplug the siren. The GOH in the FCC ID# tells me that it is a Code Alarm brand system. The instructions I told you are the only programming instructions that I know and they are for...

You may have an older CodeAlarm system... Try these instructions to program... 1. Enter vehicle and close all doors. 2. Wait until dome light goes out. 3. Perform the followin 3 steps all within 5 seconds a. Turn ign. key to "ON" position b. Using the vehicles dimmer switch turn...

Before you spend money on the fob's try the programming mode up to step 4 to make sure you can enter programming mode. If you get the chirp after 15 sec's. then just turn the key off and order a fob from ebay.

The white knob adjust the sensitivity of the shock sensor for the alarm system. Your system is a Code Alarm brand system used by ford for the dealer installed systems back in the early 90's. Do a search on ebay for the key fob. Look for the FCC ID# GOH-MM6-101890 Just search for the number...

Sounds like you may have the dealer installed alarm. Look for a small black box ty-strapped to the steer column above the brake pedal. The plastic box may have a small white adjusting knob. This would be the adjustment control for shock sensor control. Do you have the red valet light also...

I believe in 91' and 92' there was no factory installed alarm system. Only a Code Alarm tagged FORD dealer installed alarm systems which were available on all 1st. gen explorers from the dealer. Factory systems were I believe available starting in 93' as an option. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...

Years ago I had a bad ECC relay causing the same problem. I was only getting 7 volts to the coil windings on the fuel pump relay so I figured it was either the ECC relay or the PCM. I took a razor blade and cut the ECC relay open and took an small ignition file and cleaned the contacts. It...

From the beginning...turning the key on the ECC relay closes sending power to the PCM (computer)... the PCM sends control voltage to the Fuel pump relay. The fuel pump relay closes sending voltage thru the inertia switch then back to the Fuel pump. If you have no voltage at the Inertia switch...

I think Fortune meant inner (rear) on the front brakes. My 94' only has 1 clip on the bottom of the inner pad. I dont think its possible for them to fall off unless they break. If they are not on the pads then they probably were left off during assembly. You do have to take the caliper off to...

Doubt it... Clutch floats freely on compressor shaft via a sealed roller bearing. When the bearing goes bad you will hear a much noticable noise and sloppy pulley. I would think the burning smell would have to be something else.

Not to mention due to the fact it was a compressor failure it probably a very good Idea to replace the oriface tube and flush the system

Standard Ford Radio Wiring... Red...................12v ign. yellow...............12v. batt. memory Black.................Ground Blue..................Power ant. Blue/white..........Amp turn on Black/White........amp ground Orange..............Illumination Orange/White.....Dimmer...

I have a similar problem with my 94'. The throttle plate has dug a slight groove into the aluminum housing. I tried to polish it out one day when I first realized that was the problem and it was much better until receintly.

When you don't properly torque each wheel lug to the same ft. lbs. and proper torque sequence there is uneven pull on each wheel stud... Then after a few good drives and heating and cooling of the rotors the uneven pulling on each wheel stud causes the rotor to warp...ie causing a pulsing brake...

I've had 3 torque converters go bad but in a f-series not my X. All 3 TC's failed while driving and were very noticable the instant when failed. You could have a faulty pump.

Found on eBay... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=303&item=4306188561&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V Better quality metal set... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=303&item=4333938072&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

You can use any silver solder w/at least 5% nickel for vibration. Sil-Fos is a brand that I have used. Any Industrial refridgeration Co. stocks it or even a welding supply shop. Make absoultely sure the condensor is flushed out with something like Dura 141 A/C flush so as to make sure the oil...

NO! The oriface tube will not function properly. Its not just a filter but it also functions as a expansion valve... The early explorers r12 capacity was 32 ozs. The first r134a explorers were 24 oz. systems... 2-12 oz. cans should be fine.

I bought a rebuilt one with a new accumulator, oriface tube, "o"rings, spring locks and PEG oil from ebay from an seller in Texas named kendeb13 for 159.00 plus shipping and a 1 yr. warranty. he wanted like 50 or 60 more for the same kit but with a new compressor. My local shops wanted between...

Sil-Fos is another brand... Any refridgeration co. stocks it. You can get a new condensor off ebay for about $100.

The fuel pressure should only be around 35-37 PSI... with the key off you will only get a little driblet of fuel from the fuel rail but with the key on you should get a good volume due to the FP trying to maintain good fuel pressure.

BTW thats a "Code Alarm" brand dealer installed alarm system. If your remotes go bad look on ebay for replacement code alarm remotes with the same FCCID # that is on the back of your remote.

The fill port is the low pressure port located on the accumulator/filter dryer. This component should be replaced anytime there is an open or exposed system. I has dessicant bags inside that filter moisture and excess liquid refridgerant and oil resides there. If the check ball is leaking its...

Merc2dogs probably right. The foamy like material is used to help prevent vibration from rubbing thru the evaporator. A firm grasp and pull usually does the trick...

I had a similar problem with mine a few years ago. I noticed that when it wouldn't start I didn't hear the electric fuel pump buzz for a second when the key was turned to the "ON" position. But it wasn't a inertia switch or fuel pump relay or fuel pump. I pulled the FP relay out and probed the...