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Do it again. If you had improvement then you have dirt. Filter plugged up again I would guess. Cleaner loosens gum in the tank. Half a cup of acetone does quite a job . Do not spill it on your paint. Cheaper than cleaner as an alternative. Cleaner, acetone, cleaner, etc. until mileage stays up.

Beg to differ. Little holes let sand and salt in, doesn't let it out. Becomes a little rust factory, stays wet all the time.

I would not worry about the rust you see. When the frame fails it will be from the inside out. Do not touch it without a little tapping with a hammer. The first place mine gave out was a rear A frame. The running boards and their mounts are another early death.

And I am a little wiser.

You got me interested. Please expand. ( I really should be putting on shingles not googling)

Really, I didn't know that. I guess I can stop trying to find the carburetor on any of mine.

Carburetor, it would be fuel filter or weak pump. Would think along the same lines.

The rear lower bolt holding the chain gear is accessed thru a plug which is inside the bell housing. Tranny out you can get at the plug. It is not that easy to feed the chain over the gear without removing the gear. Can it be done? Not by me on my engine. Will it be tight on the top end? Sure...

Back to the tranny. When the tranny is off it is possible to change the rear chain guide without pulling the engine. I'd be at least looking at it by pulling the valve cover. Actually I would look before spending on the tranny.

Coolant in your oil will absolutely eat up your machined surfaces in your engine like crank bearings and valve train. The less you drive the less it is evaporated and continuing to damage. More common to be leaking at the plastic housing to Aluminum intake or sensor o ring. That will not hurt oil.

I'm not sure if there is a difference in the 2nd hand translation between an engine "shutting off" and a simple stall. Idle too low for a alternator dragging down the idle versus a computer shut down. Anyway I would also look at the pick up coil and the front end oil leak. Is there oil in the...

If stopping distance is your top criteria, your driving too fast.

This, that, and the other thing. Snow tires in December are great. The same, now bald snow tires in April suck. Do the drivers around you know what they are doing? Great if you stop quickly until the car behind you plows into you because, well, because of a lot of reasons besides tires.

Glad to hear. Ground contact can be refreshed by changing a good starter for another good starter. Ford multi strand positive cable can look good, test good with voltmeter and not carry enough juice. When you are stuck just loosening a starter shaking it and retightening it can get another...

I picked up 2mpg on my f150 by checking my brakes. They were giving no sign of wear or trouble but I checked them anyway. Only drive about 5.5k per year. Took a monkey wrench for a grip and a ball joint remover to beat the slide pins out. Dried up grease, no rust. No not me, bought it from a...

[ 2000StreetRod, Reread your post at #117. The kit I bought to replace the broken Right chain included the 0012 kit. Is that kit only for earlier models than the 02 Vin E? Any theory on why the chain and main tensioner broke?

Finished rebuilding last summer but did not put back on the road until this spring. First 600 miles were great, then lost power at 50 mph but drove it 10 miles home. Snapped right timing chain and main tensioner. All new parts, little baffled, just bad parts or something else. Which would have...

I was reading into the story that the balance chain was what broke. Removing the guide and the four bolts that hold the balance assembly would probably let you change the chain. The timing would already be toast if the chain broke. Retiming would require a loose gear or a lot of trial and error...

Post 55 is pg 3. shows balance shaft with both oil pans removed. Removing the torx bolt should let the gear come off easily. The center chain, main chain, drives the jack shaft located between the heads. The rear of that shaft drives the oil pump drive and the right timing chain.

damienlike, If you pick a picture from page 1 or post #55 on page 2 and describe the problem from a specific picture you will get a better answer.

Are you seeing any oil pressure changes? My memory is there is a bypass built into the oil filter housing. I really do not know why I think that. Mostly asking the question. Do you have the old tensioner? It would not be the first new piece that was worst than the old one.

Make that sludge. Love auto-correct.

Slug break loose it the tensioner oil supply passage?

Injector dripping from dirt that got in the line when apart? Any computer codes? All the time or just some times?

Something that has been kicking around in my head. ( well one of many) Post #10 shows a chain to avoid the special tool that holds the crank to torgue the bolt shown in 10. That is a 2 step torque the 2nd step is an additional 90 degree turn. The shaft is the "nut", couldn't the shaft turn with...

Did you get this resolved? The balance shaft crankside gear is keyed to the crank with a larger key behind the smaller keyed gear 2000StreetRod is showing. 2000StreetRod, thanks for fixing my error, completely forgot doing the balance shaft timing step.

You are talking about the crank side gear? It is keyed to the crank and the main drive to the jackshaft is also keyed with a smaller key. You can almost see it on post #5 photo. You have to remove the main guide to get at the balance shaft guide.

NTP 90398SB from Napa Not quite the same kits, Napa lifetime warranty, Ebay call. Napa has jack shaft gears and balance shaft gears. That may be more than you need. When you get into the details; head bolts and harmonic bolt are one use bolts. "Complete" is not always the same vendor to vendor.

If you look at Post #1 photo you will see valve contact on the cylinders, bent valve stems follow that contact. Broken chains may be a more common contact cause than worn guides. Changing the pump requires removing the 2nd section of oil pan, that gets you into new seals. I found the...

Sorry to hear. I was running NAPA synthetic and only heard a light ping, more ERG ping than rattle. But my hearing is not the best. I found it easier to unbolt the mounts to block and lower the engine to get a little more gap for the top back bolts. Removed the bottom bolts after hanging the...

Yes, the jackshaft is basically an idler between the crankshaft and the right cam.

2000StreetRod, Do you have a rough idea of what percentage of engines with a bad left side also have a bad right side?

I would remove the right valve cover next and check that side. It will come out without draining anti-freeze but it is a pain. That side has the same mileage.

There is a lot of tension in the chain from the tensioner even not running. When reassembling a dummy tensioner is used, but it is hard to tell the difference from the hydraulic, they are both tight.

Thank you for feedback 2000StreetRod. On the pump drive end there is a collar, then pump gear,then a spacer, then the bolt holds on the lower gear which lands on the shaft and the spacer. After the failure there was a gap between the 1st collar and the shaft. It looks like that gap moved the...

Most probable cause; I found a new way to fail. The jackshaft had about .008 gap between the shaft and collar before the oil pump drive when I removed it the 2nd time. If that was also true after the first failure there may have been a gap that carried up to the spacer between the oil gear and...

It was part of a kit supplied by the guy that did the heads. The guide is stamped Borg Warner not that means anything about the rest of the gear. Will see what I can find out about the kit. The shaft was ruined by the chain after the gear broke and the bolt bent.

Well I finally got back to installing the 4.0 liter in the 02 explorer. I had turned it over by hand through 4 cycles with no binding or problems. Fired on first crank and then nothing. Pulled valve covers and the right bank cam was not turning. Pulled engine again. Found a chain link had come...

Thanks 2000StreetRod, I will put it together ignoring the old #'s and follow the arrows and oil holes. Did the factory number the pistons or rods? Cannot see any reason they would have done that.

Getting ready to reassemble doing timing chain replacement, rings and bearings. Rods were stamped 1 through 6 in that order on crank, some stamped and some needled numbers. Not stamped according to piston #ing . Now that the pistons are cleaned I see arrows and numbers on the piston tops...