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Have you got any engine codes on the OBD 1 PCM? I would check the fuel injectors for trash/varnish...clean them if necessary or replace. I would also check the gap on the spark plugs. I bought new Motor Craft OEM Plugs and the gap was way out on some by as much as 15 thousands. Proceed from...

ENGINE-OUT (removed from vehicle) PROCEDURES & STEPS FOR SYNCHRONIZER TIMING & CMP SENSOR BACK PROBE TEST ON 1995 4.0L OHV: These are the steps (with improvised procedures) to precisely and correctly align your camshaft position sensor mounted on the synchronizer (with the sight glass) when the...

UPDATE! Backprobing the CMP Sensor with engine out of vehicle (using Ohms) is unsuccessful. I have had success doing the following steps (I got creative and this worked) ENGINE-OUT PROCEDURE STEPS FOR CMP SENSOR BACK PROBE TEST ON 1995 4.0L OHV: 1. First set the #1 Piston to TDC on...

I am totally cool with making the replacement 96 block into a 95. I needed to know how to do this synchro install anyway, as I plan to rebuild the old 95 motor completely and get another 95 roller like I have now to build from the ground up with lift for strictly off road. I also want to do the...

I was under the impression that I had to swap all my 95 sensors over to this replacement 96 motor due to the EEC IV system being OBD1 DTC on the 95 PCM. In 96 it went to EEC V with OBDII DTC. So I stripped all my sensors from the 96 engine and replaced them with ell the sensors on the 95...

I do understand what you say about the cam gear teeth being in matched to the synchro gear teeth for proper installation (which is where I am), but this final "back probe" step appears necessary to time the CMP to the synchro shaft. Just my thoughts. This would be the about the same as advancing...

There is a solid red wire for + supply, a smaller black wire with white stripe for - ground & a dark blue with orange stripe wire on the center "0" pin (as described in paragraph 17) as the wire to probe. Couldn't I just measure ohms from the + pin to the "0" center pin and achieve the same...

Here are snapshots of the Haynes Manual procedure for the last step (back probe) to complete synchro installation. I just want to make sure my "engine out" plan to complete this last step is kosher. So if I do what is described in paragraph 17 through 19 of the synchro install...

The manual states to do a back probe test on the synchro. No instructions for how to do this with the engine out of the vehicle. There are 3 pins on the synchro connection. One is +, the other -, and the center one is stamped with a "0". To back probe this "0" connector pin, all I should have to...

Anyone else want to chime in?

Sorry. Hit the wrong button. Picking up where I left off: The Haynes Manual states to put the leading edge of the vane on the small mark on the left of the sight glass, then insert the synchronizer. Once it dropped in, the leading edge of the vane is now closely aligned with the long mark near...

UPDATE: Thanks Roscoe! The shaft in the bottom of the bore hole demonstrated some play (wobble) and was falling to one side and not sliding inside the bottom of the synchronizer shaft hole. It was smacking the bottom edge of the synchronizer & not stabbing in it. I rotated the engine on the...

Hey I'm back with a new round of questions. I hope I'm not being too much trouble. Here is where I am: • I am to a point where I have #1 Piston at TDC on compression stroke. • The needle on the Crank Position Sensor is pointed directly at the 0° mark on the harmonic balancer pulley. (See...

Perfect. Thank you. I can see the pics now. I will give this a whirl. PS anyone have any advice on removing the fan & clutch? The manual says I need a special tool. I'm about to carefully & surgically remove it with a large hammer if I can't figure out something. I want to clean and...

Yes I have an affliction lolol. But as for the pointer on the CPS... The image links are broken and I cannot view those.

Lololol...I don't know how that tire got uploaded. When I realized It was there, I attempted to edit but it won't let me delete the silly thing

Thanks so much! I got the 96 engine real cheap ($175) plus another $75 for the guy to deliver it to me in Nashville from Illinois. So it was already pulled when I bought it. The engine is reported to have 150k miles. I popped off the oil pan & valve covers to find a like new appearance on all...

UPDATE: I took your advice. I swapped the following sensors/selenoids etc. from the 95 engine to the 96 in order to keep the 95 harness & PCM • Crankshaft Position Sensor • Synchronizer & Cam Position Sensor • 2 Vaccum Selenoids • EGR Selenoid • Throttle Body with TPS • 2 Coolant Temp Sensors...

Thanks for your reply. I figured this would be the case. This does however raise a few new questions. • These two synchronizers appear completely different. Plus, the wire connector on the 95 Synchronizer Cam Sensor is broken. The harness connectors are slightly different but both have three...

Hello! I'm swapping the 4.0L OHV engine in my 95 Explorer for a 4.0L OHV engine out of a 96 year model. The engines appear identical except for the camshaft position sensor, the connector shapes on a few things like vaccum selenoid, coil pack, etc.. I want to use the wire harness that came with...