The #1 Ford Explorer enthusiast resource for over 25 years! Performance upgrades, maintenance, modifications and problem solving. Covering the Explorer, ST, Ecoboost, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. .
Register Today It's free! Once registered you can join the Elite Explorers to eliminate ads from the website.
Thanks. I was toying with the idea of just throwing a cheap tranny cooler on the front of the condensor and simply pulling the hoses off the stock cooler but I hate not replacing parts the right way even though it will take a lot longer and cost a bit more. I guess the radiator comes out and I...
I've got a leaking trans cooler on my 04 EB 4.6. I thought it was only a clamp on the line but now I see dampness in the fins. I don't see any easy way to remove it. Has anyone else done it? Do I have to remove the radiator to get to it? PITA!
Battery is good and connections are nice and clean and alternator is good. I will clean the MAF and throttle body. Thanks for the ideas, I had some thoughts but need other people's ideas too.
Could any of that cause the pump no to pump on crank? When it's going to start I can hear the pump, when I don't hear the pump is when it won't start, but a quick shot of ether and it starts and is fine all day or for a week. I borrowed a friends Scanner and was able to get the pump to work...
Please help guys. I have a 2006 with a 4.0 that has a no start/no fuel every couple days, more so after sitting for a while like overnight. When it does start I can hear the fuel pump when turning the key to run before starting. When it doesn't start I do not hear the pump. If I spray a...
For those of you who have had to replace your PCM where did you get it other than the dealer? And are you happy with it? Need to get one for mine and want to know my options.
So the PATS won't kill just the fuel pump? Ok. There's a chance that the PCM is bad, I replaced the solenoid pack and checked connectors and ohms tested the harness and I still get my P0743 TCC code. Maybe the PCM is to blame for both issues. Anyone know where I can find the PCM connector...
I have a 06 Eddie Bauer that has an intermittent crank no start that's fuel related. I have no cluster codes and the only engine code is for a solenoid pack that I know I need to replace. I know it's fuel related because when it happens the fuel pump doesn't come on, but by the time I get set...
I agree with all of the above. When my customers complain about how much they spent on repairs during a year or how much an upcoming repair is I ask them if they like their car. If they like it and it's not rotted out divide that yearly repair bill by 12 and see what it is compared to a car...
I can't speak for JCUZ, but I was merely asking one question and stating one fact. My question was how many sentences your post was supposed to be and the fact was that I actually did get a headache reading it. That was not abusive. If you think that's abusive then you might have a hard time...
Don't think you'll get a response from him, This thread was 3.5 years old and he said he traded it in for a pickup and he hasn't been on here since 7/10/12.
Sounds like you found the problem. The guy that replaced the engine should have taken another look at all the connections after you complained about your issue. Any good mechanic would, I'd find another one.
Most common problem is vacuum leaks. The elbow going to the fuel pressure regulator, the elbow at the base of the throttle body for the PCV and the small colored plastic vacuum lines themselves are the most common. Visually inspect first and if nothing is found try spraying some carb clean...
X2. That wire is for the block heater. The new engine might not have a spot to plug that in unless the donor vehicle was optioned with one. Did this problem happen as soon as the new engine was put in or were you able to drive it around and then it happened?
Just did my intake last weekend for the same reason, small crack at the rear of bank 2. I assume you got the Dorman part from RockAuto. Went smooth, just had to reattach the small ground wire at the rear of the fuel rail on bank 1, the wire has an end that slips onto the stud used to hold the...
Sounds like you might have a rust ridge on the rotor that you have to get the shoes past before you can adjust them. If you poke the knockouts out without killing the backing plate so you can adjust them after putting on the rotor that would be the way to go, if not you can either find someone...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.