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So I recently replaced my heads due to them being cracked and leaking coolant into my engine. Prier to replacing them my temp gauge always ran at the first leg of the "N" and after replacing them I had the windshield wiper temp guage that everyone else seems to encounter after head replacment...

That braided groung bolts to the back side of your drivers side head. It provides a ground path between the body and block.

Look at the sticker on your drivers door under axle code. Then look it up under Explorer Specification on this site. If you think you have something other than stock just jack up your rear end, rotate one of the tires a full revolution and count how many times your shaft turns and you have...

The crank bolt is a TTY (torque to yeild) like the head bolts. You can physically reused it, but not a good idea.

Pull your dip stick and see if there's any milkyness to the oil. Check under your oil fill cap for the same milkyness. Next time you change your oil check it out. You may have to let it sit for the water and oil to seperate. You may have a bad fuel injector/oring leaking causing the gas...

It may be a cracked head. How many miles do you have on your X? Is there coolant in your oil?

What he said^^^^. I just went through this and had I not taken jd's advice I'd probably be a lot worse off.

The black box is the on touch down module. It could be bad. I'd start with your switchs and go from there.

Ok thanks. Yours turned out really great.

I have my headliner out and plan to do it in the near futher. When you did yours, did you put the new fabric over your old one or did you remove it from the fiber board backing (or what ever it is)? Thanks

Sounds like the heat riser. It takes hot air from the exhaust to the intake filter box to help it warm up in the cold.

It's hard to tell from the picture, not wide/clear enough, but it might be the lower intake. What engine do you have?

Did you replace the fuel injector orings?

Well if you just rolled them up to the side of your truck you have to remember that the center of you axle is sitting a little lower on the stock tires then it will with the 31's. I quess I should of asked what your stock tire size is?

Should fit without the lift. Although you might have slight rubbing at either lock point.

The second pic is the stock rim.

Thats up to you. I don't know that one is better than the other. Which ever one you like better. I put 2nd gen EB full power cloth seats in my 94'. I luv'm compared to my crappy stock non-power seats.

So the engine idle flucuates also? Does it only fluctuate at idle or at other rpm's?

Might be a bad ground. Even though you replaced the ground cable make sure all you'r ground spots are clean. Do the gauge lights, radio, etc fluctuate as well?

Yes that is the right kit to replace the spindle lock nut. But you will still need manual locking hubs as pictured in the link that Curtis provided.

Nice, Lmao:bsnicker:

No increase in power. 98tm's have the same cc's as what your stock heads are (95tm/97tm). 98 is when they narrowed the exhaust port from 1.70" to 1.40". Ford says this was done so that the increase in exhaust gas velocity would heat up the cats faster for emissions at start up. I wouldn't...

I'm assuming you have an ohv engine, if so then they will fit/work, but you will have lower compression if you do. The 2nd gen heads are a smaller cc head and the pistons are a deeper dish to maintain the same compression compared to the 1st gen that had larger cc heads and smaller dish pistons...

Well I'm not sure just yet. I've seen quite a few on this forum that I like. Definitely one that will accept a winch. But both are near the bottom of the want to do list for now.

94' XLT 4x4 250+K Done::thumbsup: Rotors Pads Bearings Calipers New heads (both were cracked) Leaky sun roof Power front seats Need to do::hammer: Rockers and dog legs (both sides) Pipe from EGR to exhaust maifold Tranny fluid and filter change T-case, front/rear axle gear oil...