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ESP can be extended. Need to pay Ford dealer ESP inspection and information is entered into Ford database. Then contact Joel and pay for extension. I did that.

Sounds like my 2016 Sport. It was the cam phasers. Dealer replaced both phasers, 1 tensioner. I had ESP so I paid only my deductible. I did have them replace the water pump since front cover was off. There was no additional labor, just the cost of the water pump. It was long process since...

Ouch. Try Hayward Wheels. 510 400-3987. Was following their delivery van and saw their info. Let us know how much. Photos before and after. Another is Pacific Rims in Pittsburgh,CA.

Yes, the vent is hard to remove. It is not a twist on/off item. I used a small screwdriver and went around the hose and barb of the vent to "break" the seal and then tugged and wiggle it out. Takes a bit of patience. Did you remove the intake tube and engine cover to get better access?

I had the creaking /popping noise on the driver's side when braking. The weld at the base of the B pIllar separated, they can't see it heard and felt it. Dealer body shop had 2 tech go on a test drive. One to drive and one to side in back seat listening for creak. He also had to physically lay...

Sorry I wasn't clear in my comments. I meant referring to starters, alternators and transmissions. All other parts are new.

From what I was told by Fords parts department, if I bought a remanufactured Ford part from a dealership and installed myself and it failed during the warranty period, I should bring the vehicle to the dealership for them to verify the part failure. Ford will replace the part and install it and...

You don't have to buy the special tool. You can rent it for free at Autozone, O'Reilys, etc. I did that. Easy peasy. As to the O2 sensor it's a matter of preference on what brand you like. Just don't get a universal fit. I usually get OEM so I don't have any issues. Sometimes you have to...

I usually place floor jack under the lower control arms and place jack stands on the pinch weld points one corner at a time. There are arrows pointing to the spots, behind the front tires and in front of the rear tires. I have also picked up the front end with the floor jack on the subframe...

Don't mistaken the tightness of the parking brake pedal of brake dragging. Go to YouTube and look for FordTechmakuloco channel and he has a video titled "are your brakes dragging". That is likely your issue.

I'm gun shy on Motorcraft batteries at the moment. On my 2016 Sport OEM battery died at 32,000 and was replaced with Motorcraft Max under 36K/36 months B2B warranty. 13 months later it too died and I got Interstate battery from Costco with 850CCA for $99.00. You only get the balance of the...

I suggest tightening the mounting bolts to the floor pan. Also look at the latch where it latches to the floor bracket. Maybe latch not engaging fully and needs a bit of lubrication and that's why you a rattle. To answer your direct question....no noise or rattle on my vehicle.

Have you tried jumping the battery? When my battery crapped out without a warning I jumped started to get home. Once I got home and shut engine off to go in house to change out of good clothes and when I came back out it wouldn't start even with jumping. I replaced with new battery and it...

Definitely have independent mechanic check it out. However, a few things do not make sense such as a used car lot replacing timing chain, tensioner and water pump as part of them servicing the vehicle. That is a expensive job ~$1800 -$2000. Most lots do minimal and sell. Someone must have...

My 2016 had the clicking in the steering wheel area at 35K. It was clockspring. Replaced under warranty. Problem gone. I too have the intermitent metal click on driver side and I thought it may have been strut bushing but "was not able to duplucate" when in for service.

The front cover has to be removed to replace the water pump. Coolant has to be drained. At minimum they would replace the coolant with new. Not sure they would flush cooling system. Look at the repair order. It would list what was done and what parts were used including coolant.

Did same as you. Was repairable at cost $300.00. San Francisco prices. Was a Quicksilver franchise place. It was cheaper than my deductiblemlm

Based on the letter that I received notice 19S17 there was no deadline date. As Peter mentioned if purchase is thru Ford or Lincoln dealer, the recalls should have been completed prior to sold on their lot.

Try a 10-24. It does take awhile, patience and luck. Was your broken servo pin the original or aftermarket?

If I recall correctly use 10-32 fine thread machine screw. Got to be gentle to thread it into the shaft to catch it with just a couple of threads. Then pull out gently. Takes awhile to get the hang of it and a bit of patience and an occasional cuse word.

Thanks for catching that Peter. I read too fast, glanced at his existing profile and assumed.

Sport does not have that option.

My father had and 88 Lincoln Continental and it ran fine until we got a letter for an emissions related recall for the state of California. Recall was done but vehicle never ran the same and kept on dying when we let up on the accelerator. Local Ford dealership worked on it multiple times...

Mines was the clock spring. Take it in for warranty work.

Welcome. I would put a wrench on the visable nuts and bolts just to check. If prior owner replaced shock/strut assembly I would also check the top mounting bolts. Get a good look at the springs to make sure they are not broken. Also look at swaybar links.