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Interesting. Anyone here try these maximizer headers?

Well I got nothing. 30minutes running, heat on nice and hot, revving up to 3000 (which is overkill because I don't go hgher than 1500 going in and out of my spot). no leak, I found the hpv and it looks slightly different but I turned the heat off and on 15 times and no problem. Not a single...

Well I really hope it's that, looks easy to replace and cheap. That would be a win for me. Coolant actually goes through that plastic part?

Well the hose wasn't leaking any fluid like I said and no the diff has not been out of it in the 2-3 years I've had it now lol. We did get 40cm of snow and I had to drive through some deep drifts, perhaps the snow shoved it around? Because I've been under my truck a lot and I would have noticed...

Yea it was definitely coolant, bright green and it wasn't on that side either, it looked to be closer to the front passenger side wheel. I slipped under the truck today because its now sitting on a sheet of ice, still no drips and I couldn't see anywhere it could be dripping from. While I was...

Front diff vent tube eh? Should it be pushed somewhere else? The snow has been high enough to drag on the undercarriage. Alright I'll the rad, maybe some hard snow pushed on the lower rad hose or something, it was a large drip hole in the snow so I'm surprised I haven't seen anything since

So i found coolant in the snow last week under my explorer. Didn't notice it until after moving the truck so i tried idling in my parking spot for 20min and rev'd it a few times. No drip and reservoir level was fine so it must be recent. Well I shut it off and left it sitting for 5 days and...

Maybe it might need to be adjusted then? it slipped without too much force and I read somewhere in a rear wiper thread on here that a nut (I think on the arm?) has to be tightened correctly for everything to work right. I'll try tightening it this weekend and see what I can do. At least that...

Probably a motor? Poop. Guess I'll see what rock auto has

OK so I had a chance to look at the rear wiper. I turned it on, heard a clicking, so I went to force the arm, thought I stripped it as it went half way across the window making a "zzzziiippp" noise as it went (like stripping plastic gears lol). Anyways it was fine and I could get it do a full...

I've never noticed a door ajar light and I remember reading about it now that you mentioned it koda about the sensor thinking the glass is open. I tried opening and closing it a few times and it did nothing. I'll have to root around and see what the fix is. I know it doesn't do much but in the...

I bought the dorman blend door kit from rock auto and cut a hole into the bottom of the plenum. Pretty easy to do and that metal tape hasn't budged. As the for the intermittent pats ring problem. I tried replacing it with a used one and it had the same problem (It being intermittent). I haven't...

I have a broken blend door on my '98 explorer. How to do it looks easy enough ( I read the thread) but I'm ordering from rock auto and there are 2 part numbers and this is where I'm stuck. I have an explorer 5.0 with manual controls. Which one? DORMAN 902202...

What is the problem you are having though?

I believe the theft light should flash rapidly when you turn the key on if there is any kind of problem (will take about 3 seconds to start flashing after the key is turned on if there is a problem), be it bad chip, faulty transceiver ring, wrong chip ...etc. When it's flashing rapidly it won't...

See and there I went and posted wrong info. I will go back up and fix it but it cuts the INJECTORS. My bad!!! It does turn over though, as my transceiver ring is faulty and will sometimes not read my chip. it will cut the injectors and crank over and over until the battery dies if you let it

I'm assuming you are asking for their input because you were thinking/hoping it cut fuel at the fuel pump?

I read some people used a soldering gun to melt the plastic together. Someone mentioned on the last page that it was olefin plastic but I can't confirm if that is what it is. Anybody know what Dorman part number to order from my post?

It actually cuts the injectors and does it through the computer so you can't bypass anything to give it power. Some people thought it cut the fuel pump and tried wiring it to bypass the security, didn't work lol EDIT: Cuts the injectors.

I've heard of chip keys failing but I don't know how it fails. If you use a key that fits the ignition but doesn't have a chip (or the right chip) it won't start. It will just keep cranking over.

I'm dragging this up from the dead as I also have a broken blend door. How to do it looks easy enough but I'm ordering from rock auto and there are 2 part numbers. I have an explorer 5.0 with manual controls. Which one? DORMAN 902202...

Lucky! I seem to be getting all the common annoying electronic problems lol. I won't be able to get to it until the end of may unfortunately as I will be away from home but when I get back the weather will be nice and warm and I'll be ready to tackle it.

Yea that metal duct tape is included in the kit but in that link you gave me they mentioned that a soldering iron works best if you have one. Seems a lot better than removing a lot of parts and venting the AC....etc

I found the repair kit on rock auto from dorman that you have to cut the bottom out. Fine with me. I have a soldering iron ad apparently that seals it back up perfectly. Thanks for the thread link koda

Sigh. Got the actuator out and unfortunately the actuator is working, moves nice and slow and precise with the temp control... Also it pops in and out of that hole very easily. I thought it would have to press in to whatever D shaped hole it goes in to or at least be a bit snug/tight but it just...