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fixed it. Stupid me was checking for power with the circuit open. Had my dad hold down on the horn, both were getting power. The bolt grounding them/holding them on was on very tight, but there was some dust and corrosion. Hit it with WD40, and a hammer a few times. Works. Thanks guys.

okay, I have traced the blue wire all the way to the christmas tree that goes through the firewall on the drivers side. No power. I checked the blue wire that goes into the relay (which clicks when I press the horn. No power.

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I have a 1990 Ranger. This past winter I honked my horn at a deer, it worked the first time, then stopped working. This had happened once before, but started working again. The relay is clicking (so I think it is working). The fuse keeps blowing immediately after insertion. I believe there is a...

which method did you use?

yeah, I wouldnt have filed a lawsuit... unless I had so much spare time and money that I wouldnt actually own an ex in the first place. Anyway, my '90 ranger has been rock solid.

bumperoo

really? My sister has a 1991 toyota camry with 250,000 miles on it. Been halfway maintained. Not a thing wrong with it, some peeling paint, that about it. No one was asking for a car that ran for 500,000 miles with no maintenance, and for the body to last for 20 years in pristine condition. But...

It's not free. I think you should be able to expect that a massive crack wont appear in the tailgate door from normal use after a year or two. Thats called a manufacturing or design defect. Now, if they were suing because the wheel bearings were becoming worn after 100,000 miles. Or if you never...

Okay, after I replaced the CTS and it still did it, I unplugged the ECU for an hour, and now it doesnt do it continuously, just once. small kick down about 150 RMP, then back up and stays level. What do you guys think?

Guys, I have some news. When I tried to pull KOEO codes before, it wouldnt run through the self test. Turns out that it was because of a bad neutral switch. If I keep the clutch in, it does work, and it spat out "21" code. Which is CTS out of range. So, nice call guys on that. I replaced it with...

so is there a dowel in the hole, like there is with the back-up switch? My refrigerator magnet pulled the one out in the back up slot, but not in the neutral switch hole. That could be the problems, because my multi-meter says the wires are getting juice...

do you have any pictures of it? Mine has two green wires coming out, that seem like they are part of the actual switch, not a plug, but the only thing they could plug into is a plug with blk/wht and wht/blk wires. Could be a difference in the year... The ones pictured on autozone's website look...

Thats my bad. Its a 1990 Ranger 5 speed. It came factory with a 5 speed. just the 2.9 was swapped for a 4.0 using 1991 Explorer harness and comp. The back up switch is red, and its no getting power to the connector, so there is something else up. If 5 speeds dont have a neutral switch, I dont...

Did a 4.0 swap and am trying to nail down the last few bugs. The back up lights dont work, and i'm having problems with the RPM's bouncing around from 1300-800 while coasting in neutral. I was told it could be the CTS (for the comp), but its brand new, and I seem to remember a similar problem...

was having problems with my RABS (, so I pulled the 20amp fuse under the dash until I had time. So put it back in to troubleshoot, and noticed that the ABS light would come on after about 10 seconds, and it would brake erratically, and make a noise like something was locking up... Pulled the...

I think thats the reverse light switch.... and there is something already connected to it. I sprayed the area with brake parts cleaner, so the leak looks worse than it really is

bump

Okay, Im guessing this is for the 4wd and 4 low lights, cause it goes to a sensor on the top of the T-Case and maybe this is for the backup lights.... not sure. I plugged the ends in, but im not sure it did anything.... Ignore the obvious tranny fluid leak. Im pretty sure its from...

nothin?

Okay. Breakthrough. I got this truck from my dad who bought it brand new. The transmission was replaced at one point, and whoever did it ripped off ripped off the connector from two wires and cut two other wires (going to some sensor) in two. I spliced the two wires and plugged what was left of...

just checked all my fuses. They are good.Anyone know the location of the switch on the T/C? I have a 1990 Ranger with a manual shift, so it should be a BW1350, right? Any chance it could be a problem with the circuitboard on the back on the cluster?

Thanks for your help. I'm sure it will come up eventually. I compared it against my Ex, and cant seem to find it on that harness.... Now my oil pressure gauge is working I can go back to my original plan with making it actually show the pressure with the mustang OPS and taking out the resistor...

This is from my first gen ranger. I was trying to figure out why my parking brake light doesnt go on when the brake is on (and the bulb is good, checked it in a slot that lights up), and I saw these two unplugged plugs and have no idea what they go to. Any ideas? thanks guys.

Well, you were right. Thanks man. I can hardly believe I hadn't tried that. But I still have a fitting that goes to nothing. I switched the free one on to the oil pressure switch (had to widen the opening so it would go on) and the gauge works now. So, thats solved. Now I am just unsure what...