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So heres my review regarding this kit. I purchased 3 kits, two for my Ford and one for my Ninja. Installing the fogs was straight foward and worked properly. Installing headlamps were a straight foward install as well, but thats where it ends. One light would not fire, I tried many...

The kit has prongs that plug into the factory harness but they are not secure and just pull out easily, so my option is to cut the factory plug off and just hard wire it. Can I use a multimeter to test for positive? Do I just stick the positive probe in the harness and ground the other probe...

I bought an hid kit and need to splice the harness. Factory plug has 3 wires (grey w/stripe) (brown w/stripe) (black w/stripe) Two are positive and one is the ground. Any idea which one is which?

I am going to use the signal output after the factory amp (60w approx) for the new Pioneer amp & sub. I could just patch RCAs to it and plug it into the amp or even use the speaker level inputs, but I am afraid even the weak factory amp might provide too high an input for the Pioneer amp...

Okay then, so I went and bought a Pioneer 3300T amp today to avoid any problems. Sub is rate @ 120w RMS 300w max 4ohm DVC Amp is 2 channel 60w @ 4ohm or 1 channel 150w @ 4ohm Is 150w too much for the sub? Read a little extra power won't hurt. Is this true? Can I just adjust the gain down?

Looks good, but sometimes when I look at carbon fibre I get dizzy? How did you get it to conform so nicely to the curves?

Since no one has been able to pin point the output of the factory amp, I am making an assumption only. My factory sub says 60w 1.2ohm x 60w 1.2ohm. So I twisted the wires together on each side then hook it to my Pioneer sub. I am guessing that the amp was built specifically for the factory...

So I am running the factory Ford amp right now with a 4ohm Pioneer sub. It is my understanding the way I have it currently wired the amp is producing 2.4 ohms. Is this going to damage the subwoofer? Or am I okay to run it like that until I get the amp?

I am too lazy to take pictures, but guess I will have too for insurance. Then I will post them up. I also ordered HIDs I am waiting for.

40 series and I went single with a rectangular exhaust tip. The shop also integrated the factory flange mount out the tailpipe so I get tired of the look, I just need to pick a new tip and have a flange mounted....then just bolt it on.

Thanks for some examples.

Well I finally got my flowmaster installed. Wow! I like it alot, very throaty. Unfortunatly my gas mileage has gone down a bit since because I cant get enough of the sound. My old JK Wrangler I removed the muffler to save some bucks and it was pretty good, but this is my first V8 and I am...

Why the spacer on the sub? That box looks like more than enought cubic feet?

I don't want to lose the back panel as the top edge is unfinished. I have since upgraded the sub only to a pioneer shallow mount and am impressed at the improvement based on cost factor. I am still running the factory amp until I see smoke then I'll go aftermarket. I found the factory box is...

What creates mushy bass, using fill or leaving the box empty? The sub is matched to the space in the box

Yes. So if I could dynamat the inside of the box it is essentially the same as using polyfil, but a much better option? Would I see any major benefit over the factory stuffing? I do have an aftermarket sub installed in the box.

The factory sub came with a very loosely placed piece of insulataion. Are there benefits to keeping it, adding more, or removing it altogether? Is this just a personal preference on the type of sound your box produces or is their a method to the maddness?

Sorry realized I posted in the wrong area. I have found some sites similar which helps a little, but what I am more interested in is if there is any room left in a factory 20amp circuit for an additional accessory?

I am curious if a circuit in my truck runs a 20amp fuse. How many amps typically is it using? Obviously the factory does not max out the circuit right? 10amps? 15amps?

I looked up many previous threads in regards to this, but I have not come to a definitive answer. I would like to know what the factory sub amp puts out in later model 07 Fords? I have seen ppl say between 40 & 100 watts power. Rear of sub speaker stated 60w left & 60w right. Does this...

Don't know much of anything about car audio. I upgraded the factory sub in my 2010 Sport Trac to a Pioneer Premier 8" shallow and it sounds much better than the factory crap. I have heard I could try bridging the factory amp to help drive the sub a little better. Can someone explain how I do...

So has anyone signed up yet? If a group buy price does't go through can I withdraw my deposit?

I have found through further searching my truck is equipped with a smart box which controls the lights. Only the dealer can turn them off, and I have found my local dealer will do it for me. So now which HIDs to buy? Any recommendations?

Pulling a fuse is not an option, where do I look for the module? I remember reading something about the front bumper? Also I do have the option to switch to AUTOLAMPS. In theory will this disable the DRL in place of turning the headlights on and off based on night and day?

So I should diable the DRLs then. I will check my owners manual to see if I can just pull a fuse, but where else can I find info on how to do this in a 2010Explorer?