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Little late to the party, but have you tried the ignition switch? I know a lot of stuff runs through it. Is there any chance you could email me pictures of your project? I remember seeing them and it was pretty awesome and would like them as inspiration for my 50 F5 going on a ranger frame lol

Do you have any more pictures of the "during" phase of how you mounted the body, fenders and bed to the Explorer frame? I'm considering this or a Crown Vic frame for mine and it'd be nice to see more pictures.

I took a piece of sheet metal (18ga maybe?) and bent it into a [ shape. Drilled a hole in each end for the door handle screws. I also out two holes for the screws that screw into the door. while the door handle is no longer attached to the door panel, but it is firmly attached to the door. Good...

We have an AutoZone, orileys, and Napa here. I don't *think* they rent it but it won't hurt to double check. I might go the air pressure gauge route if they don't. In 6 years this is the first time I've needed one. And more or less in Pittsburg, Frontenac specifically. Kind of cool that...

Now I wonder if I should spend $50 on a gauge and another $100 on a pump if my pressure drops or just do the pump. I mean it does have 210,000 miles on but I'm not sure how old the pump is.

Lately it's been a little over 100F here. I had to wait on a friend in my Explorer and didn't want to sweat like a pig so I left it running with the AC on max. Well it ended up taking at least 30 minutes. When I went to back up it, the engine wouldn't rev up. It then kind of lugged then died...

Alright sounds good. I think to get the code when the CEL is on I'll wire up a jumper wire that goes into the cab with a switch because the CEL doesn't stay on for very long. It might be a booger to get.

Good idea. I have a question about getting the code when the CEL is on. Like I said, the CEL comes on when on the highway (doesn't really do it any more only for a few seconds now.) anyways, if it comes on and stays on, can I park and jump the wires then it will do the test and show me what is...

Man I need one, my driver side one is all busted but it would be much more cost effective for me to find a local one.

I tightened the bolts, that helped slightly. Then I changed my plugs and finally changed the #6 plug and wire (didn't do it when I did them in the fall because I was in a hurry and it looked to be a pain in the ass. That one turned out to be just as easy as the rest) My number 5 plug's gap was...

Ahah! I have spotted a few bolts. Now I just need to find all of them so I can tighten them in the order my book says. After I tighten them I'll post again if it helps or not.

Alright thanks. I'll look again when I have more light. I did a search and I saw some things about removing the valve covers, I thought that sounded odd.

Sorry, The lower intake manifold bolts. I just did a search on here. Looks like I have to pull my valve covers to get to them?

I don't have access to my book right now, but where are those damn things? I can't seem to see them.

In that case you're correct, it would be 5 and 6. So it seems as though I will now tighten the lower manifold and replace the o2 sensors. If that doesn't solve my issue I will then check the fuel pressure. Do you think I should replace the sparkplugs or just clean them off with something...

bump??

These plugs have no more than 5000 miles on them. Right plug is new. If it makes a difference, they've had two bottles of injector cleaner used with them. (not simultaneously) These first two are the #1 plug #2 plug, almost looks like sand??? #3 plug had junk on the threads and...

I cleaned my MAF last night. While it does run smoother, it still feels like I have a slight miss. I'm going to pull my spark plugs tomorrow and check spark/color. The CEL came on while driving, however this time was only on for about a minute tops. Usually its on a few minutes before it goes...

Thanks, I'll do the KOER test and make sure I get a KOEO test with it warmed up and see what I get. Also going to pick up a can of MAF cleaner then at the parts store.

Ah, yes I forgot to warm it up before testing. I don't think I blinked, I'm just not very good at reading the flashes yet. That was the second time I'd done it in about 5 years lol I was reading a while back about intermittent CEL when on the highway and they all seemed to be o2 sensor...

I think it's 16 and 186, maybe 18 too? I'm new at this. I've only done it one other time on my Mustang. If 186 is one of them, it says "186 Injector Pulse Width Higher Than Expected (With BARO Sensor) C Injector Pulse Width Higher Or Mass Air Flow Lower Than Expected (Less" So maybe try...

Was wondering if you guys could help me diagnose my problems. First off, ever since I've had it, the CEL will come on after driving on the highway for almost an hour. Since, it has started to come on sooner and sooner when on the highway. But it will only stay on for a few minutes then turn...

Yeah, with the abs wire unplugged everything is just fine (except the abs doesn't work obviously) To get the the stuff I have to clean I have to take of the rotor don't I?

Yes, the c clips were there. I parked it with it in 4x4, and the drive shaft wouldn't turn. Also, when turning the driveshaft in 2x4 the front axles did turn. I did see a conversion walk through somewhere.

I ordered a set of MileMarker hubs tonight. Suppose to be in Tuesday. I'm fed up with those autohubs. They didn't appear to be broke, and I cleaned them good, yet they still don't work.