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That sounds exactly like what im experiencing. This time last year my heat would melt my face, not so much right now. I drove for an hour last night and it never moved past the first tick mark. Its always sat in the middle of the gauge for me. Hopefully it is just the thermostat.

I'll do that tonight. I've also read about some water temp sensor that's also on the t-stat housing. Would it be wise to replace that as well while i'm there?

Lately my heater isn't blowing as hot as it usually does. I've also noticed that my temp gauge won't even get to halfway after 30+ min of highway driving. The gauge doesn't move or fluctuate at all, gets to the first line and stays there. Coolant level seems fine, could this be a thermostat? Or...

I just made a post almost identical to yours, mines just an 03 explorer. Where is this vaccuum hose you're tlking about? If i knew where mine were i should probably check those too.

I've checked coolant level which seems to be fine, and my temperature gauge doesn't fluctuate at all. Is this more likely a heater core issue, or a water pump issue?

Simply put, a few days ago i noticed a small message next to where my compass is in my 03. Next the the direction letter, in smaller letters is "CAL". Has anybody else seen this and what does it mean?

I use an app on my iPhone and iPad with one of those wifi adapters. Works pretty well for me.

The next time you guys have either of your front tires off, or if you're doing the brakes, take a good look at the brake hose that connects at the top of the wheel well and runs down and connects at the side of the caliper. Both of mine burst within 3 months of each other, and makes the drive...

Don't waste time at junkyards. Do you have any cd cases? Cut rectangles out of it the size of the original lenses, and then glue them in. Cheap, easy, and you shouldn't have to leave the garage.

Please explain this repair kit!

Tried it again today for 2 hours, no luck. I'm about done with this stupid thing. So like I asked, can this quick disconnect be replaced on its own, or does the whole line it's on need replaced?

I had somebody try it and say that it felt like one of the spring teeth may be bent. What's the secret for that?

As the title says my fuel filter is stuck on the line. I've tried every tool imaginable multiple time to no avail. In the event it will not come off, can just the quick disconnect be removed and replaced, or does the whole line have to go? And if the whole line has to go, has anyone ever done...

I've got an 03 XLT that's about to hit 180k. Had the tranny redone at 145k, and my AC clutch replaced last year. Other than little stuff like ball joints and the little actuator door motor for the heat/cold, no real problems.

Yea, i know there's a lot of ifs involved, but i would like to know bolt up compatibility before i go tearing off the current wheel. Wiring and all that is a minor detail because most wires are already compatible, its just a matter of matching them.

My steering wheel is starting to get torn up from 10+ years of use and abuse finally. Who here has replaced theirs? Are most steering wheels universal? The '13 ex steering wheel is pretty sweet looking, would that be possible to put on an 03?

Which gen iPhone are you using? I've seen this radio before, but haven't heard really anything solid about it. Review of it possibly?

I only used the thicker stuff because i figured it would just take less to fill the hole. I probably used at least 3/4 of the can.

I did in fact seal that hole with spray can foam insulation. I got the one named "Great Stuff" i believe it was called, got it at home depot. Was the medium thickness one, yellow cap. So far so good, car hasn't caught fire or anything, and on a trip to Flag last weekend, i didn't get any reports...

I didn't have the key on when I tested it, but in the process of removing that console and checking the wires I found, I believe I blew a fuse in the process which leads me to think that's why they were cold wires. Like an idiot I didn't disconnect my battery when I did all this. I'll report...

I just swapped out my overhead with a homelink equipped one i found on ebay. When i removed the console, i had a harness up there not connected to anything, but it also has no power. Wires were green/orange, and black. I assume this would be for a moonroof switch?

If that's the case, i guess i need to look and see why my glovebox area gets freezing cold while i'm driving right now during the winter. I was under the assumption that the Max AC setting closed the door to outside air, allowing the cabin to get warmer or colder faster since it was only using...

I was thinking of doing that purely to keep hot or cold air from coming in through the glovebox. You're saying it won't be a good idea?

As the title says, i removed the broken door to get my air flow back. I've also read that covering the hole inside the outer dash will stop air from coming inside the vehicle. My question is, if i were to fill that void with something like spray insulation, does anybody see any problems arising...

Two shops say its the compressor. Estimated 1200-2000 to replace and flush system. Fml.