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I'd try a salvage yard. Resistors don't go out that often. Take a multimeter with you to test the donor resistor.

Several years ago, the military tried out a large bungee rope type strap called a Kinetic Energy Recovery Rope (KERR)...if you can find one at a surplus dealer, I don't think you would ever break it!

I tried it and it refused a connection...you may want to try this with a high speed connection...dial ups and pdf files don't mix.

If you are just searching for a hot lead, borrow a multimeter or one of those circuit testers with the light bulb in the handle. I tink you want a switched lead...one that hot with the ignition on.

Check your heater control valve also. It should be vaccum controled. If you take it off, you should be able to move the valve in it easily, if not replace it.

You could always bypass the heater core in the summer to keep the interior temp down... Could the correct plunum be found at a salvage yard? pmassch, is your blower just not working at lower speeds? Maybe you have an electrical problem.

I'd take the starters to another store just to verify the problem is with the starters, you may just have a bad selonoid on your old one. Also, check your ground cable and make sure to connection to the frame is clean...pull it off and clean it with a wire brush if needed.

Anyone know where I can get a front end rebuild kit for my 96? I can buy the ball joints and tie rod ends individually, from my parts store, but was hoping I could same some cash on a kit.

I did a 2" lift on my 96 last winter and spent around $150 for everything. As I recall, I ran into a few problems.. 1. The bolts in the kit were to short and the wrong thread pitch (need to be metric but I forget the exact pitch). I think I spent $15 on bolts at NAPA... 2. The female...

Ironically my buddy was just about to buy a $150 reader at O'rileys today and a guy overhearing him said another parts store (Advance Auto) rents them for free (with a $100 deposit). Check your local parts store for a rental before laying down the cash!

If its the same as my 96, the shift lever is splined and the knob just pushes over it....cost me $7 from the dealer for a new one.

found another used parts site that looks good.... www.car-part.com

Almost forgot...grab some brake cleaner for your flywheel and some Loc-tite for the drive shaft and flywheel bolts. Also, make sure you have all your tools... newer Fords use 12 point metric bolts on the drive line! A cheater pipe and a breaker bar really helps out here.

Don't know about the instructions but I put the 2" PA body lift kit on my 96 over a year ago, using a pre-95 application. The steering extension supplied does not work and it was a long stretch to attach my steering shaft. I'm going to take the stock shaft out and get it extended 1" in the spring.

I just replaced mine on my 96 two weeks ago using a NAPA rebuilt and a Wagner slave cylinder. If you buy a clutch kit, they are usually new and include a pilot, alignment tool and throw out...if you purchase the plate and disk seperate they are usually rebuilt, but you'll need to buy a pilot...

effects of lowering...I guess that would depend on how you did it. A half-assed lower job can ruin ball joints, shocks and other suspension components. I drove a slammed (using aftermarket spindles, springs and a c-notched frame), S-10 for years and had no problems...even after running...

I'm assuming you X has rear drum brakes, if so, it maybe a matter of doing some manual adjustment to the cam adjuster. The cam is supposed to be self-adjusting if you back up while hitting the brakes, but sometimes rust prevent adjustment. Look at the rear axle flanges for an oblong rubber...

I believe the bushings and pin kit is under $10, so for 1 door (upper and lower) its not very expensive. The easiest way I found to replace the hinges is to lift the door off completely using a come-a-long, slinging a strap thru the window opening. You can use a punch to drive out the bushings...

I think I paid $18 for a control valve, but you could probably by-pass it with some copper tubing to see if that is the problem.

I've seen a bad u-joint do something like this...is the noise constant or does it vary with the vehicle speed?

Check the connector for corrosion. A spray type electrical contact cleaner works good for cleaning corrosion, but vinegar works in a pinch.

It's getting a little better each time I bleed it but I still see air bubbles. A mistake I was making was pushing the pedal almost to the floor before opening the valve. The cluth pedal has very little mechanical play, once you push it the fluid begins to move almost immediatlely and the...

There should be locking clip on the arm that you pull out a bit to disengage the arm from the shaft. Once pulled out, give the arm a little tug and it should come off. Look at the threads on the arm...they usually go first. I think I paid $12 for a new arm and wiper blade from Ford.

I read the posts on bleeding the slave and went thru the procedures on this site and I'm still having trouble with my clutch. I replaced the clutch and slave, put it back together and hit the pedal with the quick disconnect off....the pedal was hard. I went on to bleed the slave 10-12 more...

maybe take off the arm and see if the threads are stripped? I don't know if the older Explorers use a splined motor shaft..I believe mine has a semi-round shaft that will only go on one way...