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The crush sleeve for this axle is about 3 1/2 long to start off, and a crush sleeve is what came with my install kit.

Swapping gears in a Dana Super 50 from 3.73 to 4.10's The pinion is at proper preload, and backlash is correct, but the crush sleeve has not been installed yet. I feel to get the perfect pattern, it should go forward maybe 0.001-0.002 inches, but is it worth the hassle on the front axle?

The biggest points of all this is that this'll be a big first time under taking for me and don't want to be in the middle of the Great Planes and find out that the sway of the body roll on the B2 would be the end of me. The tow rig will be a '99 F350 and I will have a weight distribution hitch...

I have a Bronco II, lifted 6 inches with an 8.8" axle installed on it. When building the axle, I had to remove the stock sway bar mounting points to make space for the new spring perches for the B2. I haven't found replacement perches yet, so the B2 doesn't have a rear sway bar on it, which...

Is this a Mazda 5 speed? If so, did you lose the little pins that sit inside the transmission to engage the switches when you shift gears? That's all I can think of for now.

Solved! It was the ECT sender to the ECU that was bad. The sensor was registering ~3M ohms cold, 2.6M ohms hot. I had a spare one laying around that registers at ~33k ohms cold and 22K ohms hot. The increased resistance told the computer was practically an ice cube and the air was super...

Update: When I add vacuum, artificially, to the MAP sensor, I can get the engine to start, warm. Approximately 20 inHg to the sensor, and the engine naturally sits around 18 inHg at 850ish RPM, with a vibrating needle, but not fluctuating. When I unplug an extra hose, and the RPMs rise to...

Update: I went and tested the MAP sensor. It has steady on voltage. The signal sits at 2.64 volts. When I add 20 inHG of vacuum to the sensor alone, and plug the port on the engine, I can get the engine to start. But when the sensor is plugged into the engine, I cannot get the engine to start...

1988 Ford Bronco II 2.9L V6 New: FPR, O2, Lower Intake Gasket, Cap, Rotor, Wires, Plugs. Injectors have been cleaned, and do not leak. KOEO Fuel Pressure 35. Vacuum gauge suggests healthy valves and rings. The engine fires up fine when cold, and idles around 750 RPM. As it starts to warm, it...

I'm pretty sure that's the brand I installed in my Exploder. They work just fine. I've added headers, put the new cams in, and run manual warn hubs with a manual trans and transfer case and I'm getting 19 mpg.

If it is a freeze plug, you should be able to goto a napa with those measurements to buy a couple if you're not entirely sure on the size. Like $1.50 a piece. But to me that looks like the end of your camshaft, and you're missing some sort of seal.

Design wise, they're pretty much the same. What you're describing is an improperly bled clutch, or it's leaking. When piecing things together, you have to make sure they're matching years so that way the hydraulic pressure is correct per the application. I've used this video to bleed my...

I'd like to finalize this post for everyone else: At the time of this posting, there is only one company that makes the slave cylinder for these transmissions. Southland Clutch in CA (http://www.southlandclutch.com/). and since they have you by the balls, they get to charge $300. The...

I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the help.

It'll be same as stock. I just need the thing to work effectively and efficiently instead of worrying about having to drop the transmission again to fix it.

I found someone who'll rebuild it for upwards of $250, so after shipping, it'll be just a bit cheaper than the $300 one with shipping. It uses the same hydraulic system as 05-14 Mustangs, and I got a hold of one of those in the hopes that I could find a way to modify it. But that wasn't...

My sister is one of the very lucky people to have purchased a 2002 4 door Exploder with the M5R4 transmission - 1 in 1000 made. I've gotten the clutch resurfaced and now I need to make sure the slave cylinder is reliable enough to put back into the truck. Is there a way I can rebuild the...

For those of you who buy a new flywheel and it didn't come with the sleeve to for the pilot bearing, I have found it out. It's Ford Part # F5TZ6K389AA It took me a couple weeks of scrounging sites and forums, finding mislabeled websites when ordering, and finally a diagram with it. $10...

1994 Ex Limited 222k and counting Heads, rocker arms, and valves replaced. Transmission swapped (auto to manual) I think I've got another 150k in her. Bought her at around 190k for 500

My 94 ex started as an auto, I changed it to a manual. The comp doesn't necessarily care if it's auto or manual from what I've figured out. I had to replace that sensor. And I had to pull the lower intake manual off and use a prybar to pop it out of it's hole to change it. But as long as...

5spdman, the swing mount looks great. Granted, you're only using, what looks to be, a stock sized tire, but did you have any fear of the mounts ripping out when creating the carrier? If so, how did you reinforce the inside? Also, how did you connect it to the hatch for normal driving...

Thank you for this. This page will be bookmarked for a future project.

My blue S10 (16 y/o purchase) had a failed transmission, my subaru I sold after a head gasket and transmission repair. My white camaro survivied a serious side swipe, but was scrapped 2 years later. Rolled my black F350. My white/red ranger made it till the engine cracked (still have it as a...

THANK YOU!!! for telling me what the heck that thing was. And now I'm angry again, because in looking how to remove that little bugger, I find out that it needs a 6mm 12 pt socket... Grrr You can see in the first pic that the inner bearing race is on the spindle... Well..... It's stuck on...

I wasn't too sure, and that's where my biggest problem lied... But! After more investigation, I found it was the front passenger tire that locked up... Bearings blew up. :mad: