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Thanks for the tip. Didn't realize that.

Thank you for the replies. Just replacing the pads this time so it shouldn't be too bad from what you've shared.

The shop manual for the '03 Sport Trac says that the brake line is to be removed from the caliper to change out the brake pads. Is there enough slack in the line to be able to do this without taking it off the caliper?

Thanks for the recommendations. Looks like I'll be removing the rear cover.

Just purchased an '03 ST XLS with 4.10 gears (axle code 42). Can I pump the fluid out of the housing with a pump to avoid having to deal with removing and reinstalling the cover? I noticed that at 70 MPH it runs about 2500 rpm. Is this about right for the axle ratio with 255 70 16 tires...

Try Dead Link Removed. I used 303 before finding this. Works great on all vinyl, plastic and rubber surfaces. Nice matte finish and lasts longer than 303. Tell Steve "Gary in Houston" referred you. He's a friend of mine and just want him to know that I'm sending him some business.

Try Poorboy's Polish w/ 100% Carnuba. It's easy to use, sun or shade, and leaves a great shine. You can clean and protect in one step.

Wow!!! Al. Over 30 MPG. That's a world's record. Got any secrets I can use on an Expedition with a 5.4L V8?

Save yourself the clay step and try Poorboy's Polish w/ 100% Carnuba. Does a great job of cleaning and protecting in one step. It's very easy to use and the shine is fantastic. Contact Steve and tell him Gary in Houston sent you.

james t, Thank you for the clarification and explanation.

Alec, If you're not having any overheating problems now, I would not use it. The engines perform best when the coolant temp is in the 190 to 195 range. If the coolant temp stays below that, the PCM will keep the engine running rich.

If you want the absolute best, AMSOIL's Series 2000 0W-30 is your choice for performance and protection. It's about $2 more per quart than the 5W-30. I use it in all my vehicles.

AMSOIL ATF. I have an ongoing special on all AMSOIL products. Just send me an e-mail and I'll get a quote out to you this evening.

Try Poorboys Polish. Great shine and very easy to use, in sun or shade.

Mike, I used that same valve for years on all my vehicles with no problems. It's made by Fumoto and the design is flawless. I wouldn't use anything else.

The friction modifier will not cause any problems.

ATF is about a 10 viscosity. I'd have her change the oil and filter pronto, as you stated above. ATF is not designed to handle the by-products of combustion.

#1Aggie, I can help you out with synthetic ATF. Just shoot me an e-mail. BTW, I'm Class of '81.

The tensioner may have bit the dust. I'd take a real close look at it.

Al, I had a copy of your report faxed to me and it looks excellent. The low OXD and NOX indicate that your emissions systems are functioning properly and are helping the longevity of the oil. The TBN is a measure of the oils ability to fight acid formation. I would have expected...

A couple of items of note about synthetic motor oil: 1) Synthetic motor oil (those with a 100% PAO basestock) has a natural detergent action that will clean the deposits left behind by dino oil. These deposits will help weak seals and gaskets not leak. As the synthetic clears this gunk...

Did the catalytic convertors clog by the smells you describe?

A synthetic blend is only about 5% (or less synthetic). There are no rules for how much synthetic has to be in a "blended" motor oil. You would be wasting your money. With 120,000 miles, you may want to consider one of the newer "high mileage vehicle" motor oil (i.e. Valvoline MaxLife)...

TPS = Throttle Position Sensor

The synthetic fluid is not the problem. If it was the torque converter, I would think that there would have been a ton of metal shavings in the pan when the shop removed it. At least, mine did that. I'd have to go with the TPS first. If that doesn't solve it, you may have to get things...