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Been a while since I came on here. I have a bunch of stuff I just found all piled up. Prefer local pickup as I'm just trying to get a few bucks for the stuff. Torsion Bars (From a stock 96 2WD Pretty sure they are D or F) - $40 for both Gold Limited step sides from a '95 Limited, they have...

I sold him my EE swaybars. He send me the money order for the total immediately. We had some issues with UPS scaring us with a lost package(which turned out to not be lost at all, and fully intact), but he was understanding. Good guy to deal with. :thumbsup:

Make sure the alignment techs set your steering wheel before doing the alignment.

Depends on how you lower it. If it's a simple block lowering for the rear, no. If you switch out springs, your new springs will dictate the towing capacity. You will bottom out easier though.

In order of importance when picking wheels : Pattern > Weight Rating > Offset > bore size > Hub/Lugcentric > Style

Are these single beam or high/low?

Swaybar work should be done with the truck on the ground. Make sure it's sitting level. Then loosen the brackets mounting it to the frame just enough you can turn the bar. Insert the end links,washers/bushings/etc. Tighten down, and then tighten down the frame brackets. Don't torque em...

Varies by packages/engine/suspension combos. I believe the order is 1,2 A,B,C,D,F From stiffest to softest. 1,2 only being put on sport tracs from ford.

Can't you just hammer it out with a screwdriver?

I need the front window motors(passenger and driver)from a 95-98 (not sure if it's the same up to 01 or not). If there's a radio from 95-98 that's be nice too, but I know those are costly.

I thought the rangers were a *tad* smaller and you have to stretch out the bumper for explorers?

98 was the year they changed the hatch, bumper, and miscellaneous features. Some early 98s came out looking like 97's though.

You should know, you're explorer is haunted. I bought a set of roof racks as well from a mountie. Shame the holes don't line up with the early second gens. =(

Bought a $10 mercury emblem from him. Nice guy. Wish he would used a beefier envelope, but all is well.

I'm using 6K bulbs. The light is more than enough on a clear night. But once the rain starts I can only see reflections of shiny things. Luckily almost everywhere I drive they'res lights/roads/etc. I'm think of buying 4300K bulbs.

You may have a problem with the pan matching the hatch. I know the 98 hatches are "bulgier" but I'm not sure if they share the same edge.

I bought a kit of ebay like half a year ago. They're all pretty much the same kit with different stickers. The housings for halogen are gonna glare the **** out of everything, but they light output you get is amazing compared to stock. Except in the rain. HIDs suck ass in the rain. I'm...

Balljoints could be shot. My ride improved dramatically after putting new ones in. Should do that again soon...

Quoting in case you missed it.

About time son.

Whats the problem? Pull a power source from an always live wire, run it to the switch, then to the lights, and ground it. Power -> switch -> Lights -> ground. Just make sure you have a fuse between the power and lights, and you're golden. edit: lol housed by a two year old thread...

Yeah, we need to know if you're 2wd or 4wd/awd.

Just had a few emails exchanged with the guy from the site. $750 pre-discount with the hid kit and not including the housing parts. Sounds like a nice guy, but a bit too steep for me.

I think you're reading that wrong. At the top of the page the price for the item is $300, then underneath the option is +$450 extra on top. It even makes a note of you having to provide the housings which means the projectors and shrouds are costing you $750 before "discounts".

? The starting price is $300 dollars. Then take off $200 for the bumper sticker, then $100 for your own hid kit. Zero. But there's a mandatory $450 item which is for the projectors. That's without the angle eyes and the bezel chroming. So...