Search results

Yes he has tried everything with this BBK boltet on to get a stable idle, but no luck. If the throttle is closed, engine stalls or try to adjust the idle. I am shure this bore is needed, this used tb has it https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachments/2011-12-10151708-jpg.258085/ and i saw...

This is our opinion too, but this member of our forum was in contact with BBK and they say the bore is not needed, every time he asked why. So he was not so amused about this behaviour, i think he is a very good mechanic and will set this bore by himself. He likes his OHV, the Explorer became a...

link to picture should work now.

If we are right, this is the only way to get air to the idle air control valve. https://up.picr.de/47352976jd.jpg

thanks for your answer, i am talking about the big bypass bore which is going angular through the body of the OEM throttle body. The BBK 1580 don't have this bore on the intake side, but the bore on the engine side is present. The BBK seal also has this gap, so we asked us what is the reason...

No ideas? The original throttle body was installed again instead of the BBK 1580, now the idle is pefekt.

I would try more water pressure, but the problem will be a tight fit for the garden hoses. Some kind of selfmade adapter would be helpfull. I think you must not remove the thermostat for a water circulation. Maybe blocking the water cooler hoses?

Maybe the reverse band has broken or the reverse sprag is slipping. Both most common problems with high mileage. Unfortunately the reverse band is located at the inside end of the transmission. Bad information, i know. broken reverse band

I have flushed the cooling system with a electrical water pump but without thermostat housing. There is and must be definately a connection between the two water ports. regards Wolfgang

Cheap? https://bikemanperformance.com/utv/polaris/rzr-s-1000/polaris-rzr-ranger-900-1000-manual-cam-chain-tensioner.html This one ist cheap, what are the differences...

Maybe use this kit https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/starting-my-00m12-installation.261439/post-2335439 Sometimes some old plastic parts find themselves in the engine oil pickup, this could limit the oil flow. If the front timing chain casette broke again you would see this by...

Pump is inside the t-case Oil leakage indicates bad sealing rings. Another bad factor of this t-case is a worn out output bearing seat (bearing housing) if it has high mileage. The only way to fix this is a new rear half shell or press in a metal sleeve ring. Wolfgang

The Borg Warner 4405 is not a very durable t-case, there are some parts which could fail. But a t-case with 85000 miles should be better than yours. Without looking inside you could not detect the condition. Maybe your t-case produce so much heat (too much oil in it -> transmission oil goes...

Spicer 032SG80002 Driveshaft CV Joint Ford Explorer Ranger Mountaineer Aviator Spicer has the most durable parts (my opinion). In this case the joint $331.25 https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/spicer-032sg80002-dana-ford-explorer-cv-joint-assembly/ regards Wolfgang

Maybe a needle of one cup is falling inside the cup while installing the joint. This will produce heat and let the grease smokes. Which joint will getting hot and produce smoke? Which one was changed by the shop?

Yes it brakes too, but i had luck to get one from tasca parts. I think with both heads on there is no chance to get this part out without damaging it. The EGR Ring https://www.rockauto.com/de/moreinfo.php?pk=11479165&cc=1119675&pt=4972&jsn=1173 Regards Wolfgang

Hello, this is an old thread, but i hope someone maybe could help us. In this last pictue obove you see both throttle body for an OHV Explorer. Both have an idle air control bypass bore. Now we bought a new BBK 1580 for the OHV, but the new BBK has no bypass bore. BBK only answered, that we...

Hello, that looks very nice, so much work in doing the timing chains(?), cleaning and painting. Ask myself why you do not install the brakets for alternator, AC and steering pump before? Looking at your picture i would recomend to change the marked parts if possible. The waterpump clamps like...

A guy wants to sell an old but brand new 2WD 5R55E and could be used for 4WD Explorer with some modifications (rear shaft/oilpan/filter/...). https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/ford-explorer-automatik-getriebe-5r55e-neu-0-0-km/2597038072-223-1699 But i could not see any holes for speed...

You don't have a suspension lift ("only" a Bodylift), so actually you don't need longer axles shafts. Longer axle shafts are available, but only in usage with a long travel kit (longer upper/lower controlarms). These shafts are much more longer. The BTF control arms are designed for a "little"...

A year ago and the bags have no issues until now. Installed straps, axle to frame Installed a stainless adjustable rod for rear ride high. I think it was worth to do this conversation. The bilstein's did a good job too at the rear end. The front end is too stiff with torsion bars screwed...

Last year i have to change the fuel pump, ordered this one from Summit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-66085 The pump is clearly a little bit louder at startup, while driving you didn't hear it. You must not drop the tank if you prefer this method (not my Explorer). A lttle pain to...

this should be the matching bolt kit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-1504 maybe this, looks like stainless https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail.php?RecordID=4952 good luck

Maybe the fuelpump is still ok and you hear it, but in many times the the rubber hose between pump an fuel line is porose and leaking. So the pressure is lost before it goes to the fuel rail.

Two month since i replaced the boots, everything is still fine. Shock's are fully extended in these pictures. The reason to jack up the Explorer was a loud metal noise at the driverside, every time while driving over a pothole i thought something must be broken. Maybe the swaybar links, no...