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im holding my own runs new head job after a sucked valve a crossed wire ... i got it together again new rods lifters rockers but i got a bad rough tick one of the boys is clacking ive taken out the rocker assembly and inspected the rods and surfaces of the rockers no signs of dents or...

have tick at idle its not prevalent goes away but .when i hit the Excell its definitely prevalent and doesnt go away after warm up .....I had heads originally magna fluxed and a new valve and seat put in at a local machine shop after a sucked valve currently there are new rockers new...

just need the heads off any to fit a 94 ohv 4.0 vinx will 99 heads from exp work or are there block differences like are the bolts the same im not partial to bore shapes what is the best set of heads i could put on it aftermarket casting or later years should be better 4.-0 still and...

new rods lifters rockers and heads re worked on a sucked valve ..... put it together now there is a clack under load and lighter at idle till warm then less noticeable thinking i need to give up on the heads or that i have a slop somewhere else like cam or bad replacement lifter ?? rods are...

so my local salvage guy has a 95 block hell sell me but i have a 94 im not so much worried about displacement as i am about the cam sensor differences ... i dont want to change my pcm and everything to get the 95 block up and running in my truck i know how to set the cam sensor up on the 94...

if i hit the blower all my gages move fwd a notch if i turn it off they move back a notch i started having problems with my alternator gage it would get stuck beyond zero and id have to tap the glass / plastic to un pin it im wondering if i truley have a runtime drain on electricals...

strange often when I get in after a foggy morning or low cloud :) my 4x4 partially lights I havnt found the issue but the last time it happened I didn't have any illumination for turn signals and the brights switch didn't work like I had turn signals but the dash lights didn't display the...

here I am at ATDC but even after a head job I havnt found my bur one pid looks like the pie formula :/ ….the cam sensor or where the distributer used to be is not easily adjustable its still possible im off :/ mysterious drives the same as before head job degraded loss of oomph:/ the year...

I been trying to trouble shoot my electrical system I have the pcm 60 pin connector disconnected and checking for continuity between pins for crosstalk …. If I start with pin 1 yellow keep alive power it beeps with the ground 60 40 and other pins until I disconnect the harness under the power...

im having what I think is an electrical issue I managed to get the truck running with a newer crank sensor and spare pcm but I might be breaking down because I can hear clicks of death as if im not in time ive had the pcm out and was checking the 60 pin connector for cross talk from the...

supposedly these are for the cologne engine im trying to get some feedback on which of these are the most prudent upgrade there is even a ev14 bosch has a flyer that promotes the idea of going to a newer injector I cant get all the data together on weather or not the new platic types work...

got a exploder with a 4.0 ohv there are newer injectors with the same flow rate ive been through two sets of original steel cans and still getting codes 172 177 176 this is after a head job never did like the slow acceleration of the vehicle ill take a shot at gas prices to take a shot at...

fresh boot of the pcm check oil check tranny fluid little test drive around the block engine light came on for about 20 seconds or less then when out ...tested the paper clip again got 176 koeo and 172 koer to make sure got out on the highway for 20 minutes to see what happens got 176 &...

if im looking at skeematic I notice an area } were limited is noted if I follow traces I see the o2 sensors are in the circuit with the cmp .... I asked a patron about it ... I was asking cause I got continuity beeps from the red grey wire and lt blue grey wire across the harness and engine...

since there are two distributes.. the crank sensor and cam senor how do I test my advance and determine if I have a proper window seems like I got a little popn after it gets warmed up and there is not freeway power yet or expected acceleration ...im working on fuel pressure also but that...

got codes out the exp one is 216 Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 2 - Ignition Systems this seems involved I get proper ohms out the wells of the coil from primary to waste but I got this code with 543 some say its Edis module ive got three edis modules never noticed a change...

got the bogs and I got a schematic showing a common or connection from the o2 sensor to the cmp sensor the black with white wire anyone have any techie suffering from the bogs what is hot in run my interior diagram of fuse box doesn't even have fuse 18

looking for the best way to repair a fuel line im at the quick connect which I believe is the line going from the fuel pump to filter I want to replace the the quick connect and a short section connecting the braided line to the pump need a link having problems visualizing a suitable...

got done with a head job new lifters rods rockers gasket set made sure my injectors were operational but I question there actual performance they ohm out and spray and click I made a jig after completion the truck wouldn't run consistently surging and weak on the pedal stalling and vibrations...

I replaced just the sensor as the syncro felt great... problem was I roke the connector pulling it out the wrong way when repairing and testing it it failed always giving me 12 volts no matter where the vane was in the sensor so I discarded it .. I replaced just the sensor with one that tested...

Im deliberating on other repairs like reinforcing the shock mounts and springs and steering gear mods …. any links for shock mount mods or spring mounts and such would be cool I recall an earlier post with shock mount mods in mind the way to play is not to challenge immediately you can...

im trying to check wiring for cross talk before putting in top harness /top end I had more than a few bad injectors looking at the bottom harness that leads to the engine fuse box there is a black and a grey bulk connector that connects to the top harness half .....no cross talk that i can...

im looking at two newer type injectors who has used these newer types for the first gen there saying 93 on

the standard looking injectors are mostly refurbs and I don't want refurbs but there are two main types now the newer skinny type and the upgraded type ….the newer type claims to be compatible ….both with warranty ….. has anyone used the newer skinny type ??? are they really even compatible...

the standard looking injectors are mostly refurbs and I don't want refurbs but there are two main types now the newer skinny type and the upgraded type ….the newer type claims to be compatible ….both with warranty ….. has anyone used the newer skinny type ??? are they really even compatible ...