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The SOHC is worse than the OHV. But the way to get to the starter is to lower the front diff. (No other way to get it out on the SOHC.) That is by far the easiest way to do it too. Don't bother taking apart the drive shaft or any of that. You just pull out the 3 bolts that attach the front...

You are probably not running lean. Your oxygen numbers are up, which is telling you it is not being consumed in the combustion/aftertreatment process (O2 sensors measure the oxygen left, not strictly rich/lean -- you have too much fuel as well, as shown by the high HC numbers). Most likely...

Put a socket on the crank bolt and bar it over by hand. You don't need the starter for that test. The best way to get the starter out of those is to pull the two (maybe three) bolts holding the front diff and let it lower down a few inches. It only takes a couple minutes to do, and it will...

Reman racks are most likely going to be worse than what you have. If it's just a leaking seal, get a seal kit (about $20 from rockauto) and fix the one you have. Short of that, I'd get a Motorcraft for not that much more. The junk from the cheap rebuilders isn't worth the installation effort.

+1 for the LuK kit.

You can see the play in the spider gears. I'm going to agree with JK. Probably the clutch packs have worn too much and created too much gap. Rebuilding the clutch packs will probably correct the issue.

Do not change it. Regular Merc is what is supposed to be in there, and it works better in that transmission than Merc V. The only reason Ford changed the recommendation is because they don't have regular Merc anymore, so they had to change it to something they had. Dex/Merc has better shift...

Yeah, that pretty well sums it up. If you have an air hammer, that can greatly speed up the hammering/vibrating part. If your hardware stores are as useless as the ones here, you might try looking for something like a Fastenal.

Yes, the fill plug is on the driver's side of the housing, and not a lot of fun to reach. Those torx screws, if they haven't been out before, have red threadlocker on them. You need to heat them and they will come out pretty easily. Without the heat you will just strip the heads. Why would...

Every one of these vehicles (at least the ones in the salt belt) have crusty, rusted lines on the power steering rack. Having lines rust through is quite common, especially if they are disturbed. Your dealer may or may not have disturbed those lines doing the steering shaft work, but if that...

There's no gasket between the TC and the trans. No fluid in there. There are seals on both sides. Most likely you will have the most trouble getting the exhaust apart, so be prepared for that. A 2-3 foot extension bar with a 13mm swivel socket is the best way to get to the bell-housing bolts.

Doesn't sound like a trans problem at all. Sounds more like a misfire problem. You need to figure out what the real problem is first.

No, there is no battery reset.

Probably corroded through a cooler line.

The LuK clutch kit IS the same thing as the OEM. That's what I put in mine too.

After the fact, but .... if you put the transmission into gear before putting it in, it is easy to turn the output shaft to get the input shaft splines to line up properly. That helps get it in. You also need to be sure to have the angle right or you can get hung up going into the pilot bearing.

Now that the cats and pipe are off the truck is the time to grind off those welded bolts and replace them so it doesn't haunt you in the future. Good luck with what's left of the flange bolts.

EEC-IV is a 60 pin module. EEC-V is 104 pin. It should also be on the module sticker.

Radiator replaced ... fluid overfilled ... sounds like there may be coolant in the trans fluid. I would definitely start with a full fluid and filter change and see what happens from there. If there are problems after the fluid change, it isn't because of the fluid change but because the trans...

PB won't get those Y-pipe nuts off. You need a torch or to just cut them off and move on. But the job is much harder if you don't get that pipe out first. Disconnect the tail end and let it lower down a bit. This makes it much easier to get to the bell housing bolts. Two or three feet of...

With the trans out, it is a lot easier to get the Y pipe out. And you should do that now, both to make getting the trans back in a lot easier and because you may need to get that Y pipe back out someday. Don't bother trying to get the nuts off. Cut through the studs to get the pipe off. Then...

LuK clutch kit and Motorcraft slave.

Moving the pump could have gotten some air in there. Turning the wheels without the engine running will cause it too. Steering lock to lock will bleed out the air if that is it. The steering fluid doesn't evaporate. If it is low it is leaking somewhere.

Sounds like one of the pulleys is out of alignment. A careful inspection ought to reveal where the problem is. If that doesn't show anything, take the belt off and check each pulley individually for any play. The harmonic balancer is certainly one possibility there.

Yes, the bearings are lubricated by gear oil in the rear end and axle tubes. If the pinion has been leaking long enough, the axle tubes could be empty and the bearings will burn up. Where is the heat coming from. Feel around with your hand. If the end of the axle tube is the hottest part...