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    [SOLD] 1991 & 1994 4-Door Explorers For Sale

    Located in North Idaho (Just north of Moscow) I have both a 1991 and 1994 Ford Explorer for sale. They both run and drive but both have issues that prevent them from being road worthy (tired engine on 1991, bad transmission on 1994). Hopefully looking for someone that wants to build one from...
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    What would you save or do? Saving parts from a 1991?

    Both my 1994 and 1991 Explorers are not able to drive on the road. The 1994 is relegated to farm duty since it still runs but has transmission issues that mean only 1st and reverse work. My beloved 1991 failed me this summer (trans pan dumped fluid) and has been sitting in shame since. The 1991...
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    Opinions on injectors? 93 xlt

    The cost of new ones turned me off ages ago. I've bought 2 sets from a seller on eBay, username was something like hp27fx (it's been a couple years). Anyone reputable with the proper machine and procedure would be good. Just make sure they ohm check and flow match them, it's important on our...
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    92 Explorer Sport 35k orig miles (possible rear main)

    Tossing this out there, maybe it's not a rear main but rather the oil pan gasket? My 1991's hardened and shriveled up so there really was no gasket left, just the metal on metal. You have wet oil forward of the seam between the engine and trans. Sure, oil can be blown around when driving but I'd...
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    Negative battery cable/Engine coolant temp sensor connector

    It's just a dumb resistor and works the same no matter the polarity. Any way you please!
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    1993 Explorer with hunting idle

    Plastic vacuum lines. Unhook them all (and plug the hole) from the tee at the rear of the upper intake manifold. If your issue goes away, hook them up one by one.
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    Front Differential cover gasket leak

    You're fine to drive it. If it's leaving puddles, I wouldn't use 4x4 but if it's just seeping, you're fine to use 4x4, just top it off and keep an eye on it. I can't think of a walkthrough with pictures (perhaps look up the c-clip eliminator mod?) but my thought process would be to pull the...
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    Front Differential cover gasket leak

    Could have been RTV that hardened up and jacking there would cause some flex of that sealing surface. I don't think you're getting around pulling the differential housing out. Use some Permatex The Right Stuff and you won't have a problem for a long time. While you're in there though, you might...
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    Are My Front Rotors warped??

    You probably got a bit too aggressive with the brakes and should have geared the transmission down. I made the same mistake. Did a front brake job, rotors, pads, bearings. Took it down a long steep 6% grade and didn't gear down, wanted to test my new brakes. At the bottom I went from about 70 to...
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    Negative battery cable/Engine coolant temp sensor connector

    I think I know what you're talking about, there's 1 or 2 round connectors for the negative cable. They're not for the coolant temp sensor though. Honestly, just splice it however you can but please don't simply crimp. Solder and double-wall heatshrink with glue inside is the best way to go...
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    How To: Pull Trouble Codes on a 1st Gen Explorer (paperclip method)

    What are you missing then? You should still get the fuel pump prime in the KOEO test, make sure you have that. If so, check for spark. I've never seen this issue reported anywhere so it does sound like you have some kind of short.
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    How To: Pull Trouble Codes on a 1st Gen Explorer (paperclip method)

    It doesn't crank or won't fire? If it's just not cranking then I'd cheat and jump the starter solenoid. If the computer is outputting KOEO codes, jumping the solenoid should start and run the engine since the computer is alive and just waiting for a crank signal.
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    How To: Pull Trouble Codes on a 1st Gen Explorer (paperclip method)

    Correct, nothing changes. The computer detects ground on the output of the test wire and enters test mode. In this case, you're grounding through the check engine light which illuminates with pulses from the test output. Make sure you have the right pins in the right connector, but I doubt you...
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    How To: Pull Trouble Codes on a 1st Gen Explorer (paperclip method)

    You can start it right away once the paperclip is in.
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    Went From Troubleshooting Intermittent PCM to Terrible Knocking Sound

    Letting it sit a week definitely wouldn't be an oil issue. I've got a 94 as a farm truck that will sit for weeks at a time and even a couple months. However, my 1991 does something that might point you in the right direction. Maybe 1 in 40 drive cycles, I'll start it up and it will have a horrid...
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    1991 Ford Explorer Owners Guide [Searchable PDF]

    My apologies. I fixed the links. Thanks for letting me know!
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    Brake hose suggestions

    If you're going to replace them anyway, just about anything is fine as long as the rubber has DOT on it. They're all going to be made in China unfortunately. I splurged on Raybestos Premium and they look identical to the cheapest I purchased on RockAuto. I can give you a good piece of advice...
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    Door striker bushings

    I've done that on mine, it's worked well for months but seems to have squished a bit. Still working and I don't have to slam the door but it might become a "replace yearly" kinda part. Thankfully PEX is cheap.
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    What are the best spark plug wires?

    I'm using the plugs in my signature. I have them gapped tight and have read that can cause an occasional idle misfire on these systems, which I do have. Runs great at highway and load so I haven't been too motivated to try a wider gap. That said, quality wires are more about long-term lasting...
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    Break lights flash instead of blinkers

    On the 1991-1994 Explorers, the brake light is the turn signal. There's only 3 elements on each side: 1 for backup, 1 for marker lights and 1 for brake/turn. Sounds normal to me. Or perhaps you mean that the rear turn signals work but the fronts don't?
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    First vehicle, have some questions

    - Does the door stricker have a bushing? If not, there's excess gap and that won't close to latch fully unless you really slam it. Could just be straight out of adjustment too. - Might be bushings again. - No, it should lock in the off position. It's possible that the black/chrome piece is loose...
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    BRAKES STILL NOT RIGHT

    NEW means Never Ever Worked. With parts the way they are these days, you could end up buying something that has sat on the shelf years and might be dried out or sticky internally.
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    Can't Get Rid of Engine Ping/Knock

    Just throwing this out there... I've never gotten rid of my ping, just tamed it. Upper and lower intake gaskets, throttle body gasket, intake tube swap (and inspection), valve cover gaskets, timing gasket, timing set, new silicone vacuum hoses with minimal loops... Nothing's fixed it. I run...
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    Engine revs when ECM / PCM / ECU pushed...

    I don't think you're in the right area for vacuum lines. There should be one that comes in the firewall above and to the right of the inertia switch but it should go towards the heater controls, not the other way towards the PCM. I'd wonder if you have pin fitment issues or a break in the...
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    Engine revs when ECM / PCM / ECU pushed...

    I think there is one that comes in for the blend doors or AC system.
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