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i ended up changing the plastic pivot bushings on the pedal assembly and pulled the rubber stopper at the bottom of the mount that the clutch pedal hits and its helped. im sure that right now im just compensating for bad synchros seeing i got like 220k on the thing. the best way i found to...

did you grease them when they were installed? are all the old parts removed? is it all properly oriented?

so i was browsing summit and stumbled on this and thought that maybe it could be modified to work as a coilover shock and go into the stock location. maybe at least change over the lower mount like the rcd kit did. curious if the coilover guys think any different

agreed. and for me this was just an idea but i think i may need to actually try it

looking at boomins last photo im worried about the shock contacting the upper mount if i use the plates i thought of for the upper mount

thanks corkey. i appreciate the help.

one of those things i didnt expect with those plugs. i will say i have trouble remembering that it can just be small things like plugs. doesnt need to be a big thing like a head gasket swap. also i forget that just cause its a new part and not that old doesnt mean that it cant go bad

i figured that much with the lowers and id start with those first. the uppers in just worried if the 4 bolts will hold. i guess i could add more bolts if needed. i figured with how thick the mount is itll be strong enough

so ive been weighing the pros and cons between just replacing my torsion bars since the drivers side bar is torqued all the way up and just going for coil overs and getting rid of them any tips/input is appreciated looking through sites like www.rustysoffroad.com at their builder parts i was...

so on the two cylinders i checked yesterday i put new plugs in. after taking a closer look at the two plugs that came out and geting other opinions from two guys at work the plugs were shot and arcing out through the ceramic in the cylinder to the threads. i put the E3 plugs in it after hearing...

today i was able to do a compression test on cyl 4 and cyl 5 and got 150psi on a warm motor. unless 6 had an issue i doubt its that head gasket. i forgot to mention that intermitently over the last 3 months if i turn it off and come back to the car to turn it on like maybe 10 minutes later...

i was thinking that maybe my timing cover is leaking and that was the minute amount of milky in my oil. the truck has band new injectors too. only other thing i thought of is a computer going bad. i will say the loaded miss seems to be too intermittent at times for it to be a head gasket to me...

so this all started about a year ago when i noticed that on the highway i would get a slight intermittent jerk in the car. pretty much say a loaded misfire. it has slowly gotten worse to now where i cant get on it and as soon as i blimp the throttle on the highway or try to drive it up a hill in...

some companies are just horrible

you may run into patts issues and your gem module will be looking for a trans signal which it wont get with the stick. other than that i dont know of any other issues that could come up besides having to replace the rear tires from burn-outs

I did matte black on mine with a few coats of matte clear and they look so much better. gonna have to find a Michigan rule book if its at all possible without pulling a wheres waldo on it. id doubt theyre one of those states that would be prunes with it but dont take my word for it

depends on what youre getting at. the truck will ride fine and all. maybe create a little drag going down the road from wind hitting it which really wont matter (just saying). the big thing is what your state has for rules. a lot of states want a fender over the whole tire so debree isnt thrown...

yea. almost flush with the wells

sorry the pics came out so small but heres mine with the 31s and the last photo was before i put them on

yea youll be all set on the fender rub. tomorrow ill try to get a few pics loaded with the of mine with the 31s so you can see the stance

not sure with 32s but my 31s dont rub with the spaces. id have to turn them to lock and see what i got for clearence to make sure. myself id say youd be good since theres a few guys here that run 32s on stock rims and seem to be ok. myself id be more worried that theyd rub on the fenders unless...

depends on applications and if he/she is giving you all the bolts and brackets. i did a westin light bar on mine and besides drilling and tapping a hole in the frame for 2 bolts it was straight forward. if yours is a full size guard it might be worth having someone help to hold it in place to...

im currently using a 5/16 slip on spacer with the stock rims and id say its the largest id ever go on stock studs to make sure you have enough thread to hold the rims on. any more spacing needed id just get the bolt on spacers to get the correct spacing

i just put 31x10.50 r15s on my truck and i did notice the weight difference ove stock but it drives just fine. they seem to fit the wheel well fine. ive had a few people tell me they rub at full lock and/or when off roading at stock height. if your keeping it on the street itll be fine. just to...

well with a 200k motor with an intake, bigger TB, ported lower, ignition upgrades and a custom cat pipe and a 50 series flowmaster to a 1 foot dump pipe i can spin the open diff in wet/sandy conditions all day long with 3.55s so i can only imagine it with more work and gears.