Search results

I was just wrestling with this issue: no heat even tho the engine cooling system seems to be running just fine. I was tinkering a bit with something else and I removed the air intake hose. When I removed it I saw that the arm of this cylindrical black vacuum actuated thing extended - clearly i...

If your key simply won't turn, then the lock cylinder is broken I had to replace the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Explorer LTD. I purchased this item from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FZ6F5XB/?tag=serious-20 Dorman 924-797 Ignition Lock Cylinder Kit with Programmer The kit...

I had to replace the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Explorer LTD. I purchased this item from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FZ6F5XB/?tag=serious-20 Dorman 924-797 Ignition Lock Cylinder Kit with Programmer The kit included very clear step-by-step instructions, the lock cylinder...

Thanx for the response! Replaced orifice tube, pulled vacuum and refilled with 60ox R134a (5 complete cans) and all working fine now. I posted here on where I found the orifice tube... Thanx!

That's not where I found it. I found it in the connection indicated in the first three pix. Also note that that first reply to this thread says "Once you seperate this line at the stationary fitting and flare nut, you can pull the orifice tube out with a pair of needle nose pliers."

This is an old thread, but I've been having trouble finding the exact location of the orifice tube in my 2003 Explorer XLT. I've attached images.

Wow; you're really going in deep on this one; all manner of sensors and data! It worked fine, and then suddenly didn't, with no knocking or smoke or overheating or other drama. That suggests (to me) an electrical failure or a computer failure. You also might look very closely at all vacuum...

Hey guys: I'm reasonably competent on AC systems, but this one has me stumped. 03 Explorer with 4L V6. AC was blowing ice cold, but then car sat for 2 weeks while I worked on something else, now does not blow cold at all. Emptied the system, pulled a vacuum and refilled with 24oz R134a...

Just to add to the recommendation: considering how difficult this job is, strongly recommend only Ford parts. Personal experience: pulled engine and replaced all chains/guides/tensioners with a set i got off eBay for $100. Bad decision. 6K mi later, both the driver's side cam chain tensioner...

I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would add a bit to the knowledge base.... 03 RWD Explorer LTD with 4L V6. I started noticing a shimmy in the passenger front prolly 40K miles ago. It wasn't constant - only started feeling it at about 55MPH, and it would rhythmically fade in and...

It bears stating that the items in these kits are different; the kits are not interchangeable. The locator pins on the 80112 kits (for the back) are wider than the locator pins on the 80111 kits (for the front). Seems obvious, but you may find that you get an 80112 box from the part shop that...

Jesus. You lost 1/4 tank of fuel LEAKING ONTO YOUR ENGINE while driving around? You're lucky you're not dead.

So ... are you or are you not losing coolant? When you have these overheating issues, do you find afterwards that you have to add coolant? Assuming you haven't allowed the car to boil over and spew coolant all over the place, if you are losing coolant then you have a leak. It's either leaking...

OK, fair enough. Just cuz I'm curious: Why would there be CO2 in the cooling system, and how do you know it's not there? Like I said tho: the cooling system is pretty straightforward. If the coolant is there and it's circulating, then the car will stay cool, and vice-versa. If the coolant...

Well; a crate engine can be bought for ~3K. Figure in ancillary parts/supplies to install it; ~$3500 all in. Value of your car with a blown engine is maybe $2k. So if you got $2K out of your car and you don't spend ~$3500 on a new engine, your actual+opportunity value of that transaction is...

Wow get a cloo. OP is clearly a beginner and needs to start at the beginning. You?

How to: - Diagnose and repair Air Bag Code 33

Inspect your fuel system for leaks, particularly on the engine at the injectors. It's an old car; the injector seals and adapters are likely brittle & cracked.....

Assuming the engine is not seized (and from what you say there's no reason to believe that it is), then starting issues are pretty straightforward. If it cranks but won't start, then you have a fuel or spark issue. If it won't crank, then you either have an electrical issue or a bad starter /...

If you like the car, buy another engine and put it in.

Well ... there's a switch at that latch. It's pretty simple; switchOpen = doorAjar, switchClosed = notDoorAjar. Wire the switch closed.

So ... you have an old car. With a lot of miles. It got hot and you added a gallon of water. Then you had to add almost a gallon and a 1/2 more. No apparent leaks. I'm gonna assume your T-stat is good My theory: head gasket leak. It's either leaking into one of the cylinders and being...

Problem: leaking fuel, fuel smell, fuel puddling on rear of the engine underneath the intake manifold. No fuel leaks detected anywhere else in the fuel system. Diagnosis: leaking fuel injector of injector seal Repair: Remove intake manifold: this task is a million times easier if you remove...

Do you have any info on the recall?

So just to wrap this up: I bought an external oil pressure gauge (this: Oil Pressure Tester Gauge Engine Diagnostic Tester Set Auto Transmission 500psi 711221793625 | eBay) and determined that my oil pressure was indeed low. Conclusion: the brand new oil pump I put in must be bad. Installed a...