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159 is maf sensor or wiring. 159 could be crank sensor or wiring. does the 94 have a cam sensor?

sorry to say but at just under 175k my 92 xlt 4x4 hit a pothole and ripped the pan apart on the trans. i would have repaired it but there was so much rust ( body mounts were shot and the gas tank was falling off) i decided to retire it. sorry to see it go, it was a good truck.

check with your state and local authorities as copper alloy line may not be a suitable replacement for steel line. i used standard 3/16 steel line with standard fittings to do All brake lines on my 92. i picked up a 25 ft roll at the local parts store. the m/c may have adapter fittings but...

if the leak is big enough the only way to "fix" it is to replace parts. just my opinion but additives will only mask the symptoms, they don't usually fix anything.

sounds like a faulty relay.

not saying this is the problem but have you tested the battery? i've had new batteries fail before.

check the Schroeder valve on the fuel rail.

engine does not have to be completely removed to change oil pan gasket but you may as well do so to replace the mounts and rear main.

an engine needs 3 things to run, air/fuel, spark at the right time and compression. if one of these are missing it won't run. you checked for spark. what color was the spark? was it a nice bright blue or more of a yellow color? you checked for fuel. how old is the fuel and is it reaching the...

might be plug wires or even losing the coil pack.

by "head gasket test" do you mean compression test? other than removing the head a compression test is the only way to verify the integrity of the gasket, unless i missed something some where.

codes 335and 336 are for the dpfe sensor. replace the sensor. cpk sensor has 3 wires, 2signal wires surrounded by a shield wire to cut down on electrical interference from the engine.

a bad crank sensor has little to do with power to the fuel pump. the sensor sends a signal to the icm which sends a signal to pcm which sends a signal to injectors and icm to advance timing. with a bad crank sensor, you're not losing power to the fuel pump, your losing power to the ignition system.

recently I go the ambition to replace some dash bulbs that had burned out awhile back so I take it all apart, replace the bulbs, check to see if they are working, (they are) put everything together and on the final system check the gas gauge pegs out over full. Damn it! every thing comes back...

also check the reset switch under the rug, on the passenger side. this cuts off power to the fuel pump in case of an accident or rollover.

Holy crap! What an ordeal just to get to the dash lights. Does someone at Ford stay up at night thinking this stuff up?

frame rails run front to back, beams run side to side connecting them. is there something specific you're looking for?

if you're adventurous, the iac can be cleaned. a new one isn't that expensive. might also want to try cleaning the maf sensor. dpfe sensor is also a known trouble point.

may have had something crawl into the exhaust and build a nest. it happens.

agreed, 87 is fine for these motors and premium is a waste.

could still be air in the system and you may need to re-bleed it. sometimes it takes 3 or 4 attempts to get them to bleed right.

when was the last time the system got flushed?

i was thinking air intake valve gasket or throttle body gasket.

sounds like an air leak some where.have you checked vacuum lines, intake, sensor gaskets?

i know that the tire manufacturers state you can't mix tires on a 4wd or awd without adding undue stress to the transfer gears. you have to buy them as a set of 4 up here.