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Hi all, have an 02 explorer with 276k on her. Noticed a bit of transmission lag/flare from gears 2-3 a couple of days ago, only did it once. Was driving today and was getting very hard shifts from 1-2, almost slamming into gear, and fairly large RPM flares from 2-3 pretty consistently, have to...

Picked out everything I could with a grabber tool, started it up, ran rough for about 10 seconds, stunk like burning paper (hmm) then came back to life. Lesson learned. Unfortunately still getting a slight oil leak at the back corner of the drivers side valve cover, I guess I'll keep living with...

Yes sir, I was actually able to fish nearly an entirely intact paper towel out from the spark plug hole at #3 cylinder, and some decent sized scraps from cylinder #6. When I pulled the intake manifold off again after my #$%^ up, most, if not all paper towel was still above the cylinders in the...

Hey all, a bit embarrassed to post this here as it's the dumbest thing i have probably ever done, but looking for some expert advice into the matter regardless. Had a valve cover leak that was burning on the manifold finally decided i'd had enough of the burning oil smell. Job went ok a few...

Hi all, was going to replace the front drive shaft u-joint as I've had one laying around for a while. Before diving in I inspected the whole driveline and noticed there is some play at the cv joint/propeller shaft that connects to the transfer case. I was wondering if there is any benefit of...

I replaced my cassettes and did a rebuild on my 02 a little over a year ago. I had the same issue as you, and tried the same things as you to fix it with no results. After a couple of weeks if I remember correctly, it fixed itself and hasn’t been back on since. No idea what caused it to happen...

Take a look at your harmonic balancer, the old style was a metal, rubber, metal setup. The rubber would weaken and sometimes disassemble itself entirely. I have never had the issue, but I think I remember one of the symptoms closing on failure was a squeal on startup, not caused by the belt or...

I have used BKennedy's of draining all the coolant, filling it with water to get a better flush, running it, draining it again and then filling with the specified coolant amount. It also wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the lower radiator hose closest to the petcock, I had some sediment built up...

They come with the 2 bolts/flag nuts for the rear bushing mount, the square head bolt and nut lock the balljoint stud into the knuckle. It also came with a single large standard nut but I can't figure out what it's for? Maybe I am missing hardware but I didn't see a large bolt in any pictures...

Just an update, I called the mechanic who taught me how to wrench, pretty much confirmed over the phone the bolt is seized and will have to be cut out. The upper control arm bolt and flag nut I need are completely obsolete, apparently only 1 dealer has a single bolt left in the country. I went...

Fronts were a piece of cake for me, even with the nearly zero knowledge I had back then, rears not so much... I guess I can justify what this might cost at a shop with the fact that I haven't had to go to one in over 5 years

I have heat cycle/sprayed it about a dozen times to no avail. I think the issue is not the threads, but the smooth portion of the bolt is completely seized to the inner metal bushing. The only way a torch could heat the bushing is to melt all the rubber out, and even then I'm still doubtful it...

The nut on the rear is flagged and locks into the frame, so not really possible to do anything without removing the bolt entirely. I feel you, I was thinking this would be a quick 4 bolt and replace job, turning into an absolute nightmare.

Propane is all I have, tried heating it multiple times, no dice. Can't get it to do anything other than break sockets. Cutting seems to be the only option, now I'm not sure if there's is adequate room for the angle grinder to get a full and clean cut. Northern heavily salted climate for most of...

Sorry meant the socket was 19mm. The bolt is M14, that is all the information I can find on it, no thread pitch/length. The rear is held in by 2 bolts that are much smaller, and fortunately not going through any bushing. After about a half hour of searching I was able to find the part numbers...

Thanks for the reply, not sure if a extractor socket would be of any help to be honest, it's not rounded to the point I can't still fit a socket on it, but is starting to go. The bolt head itself is facing the front of the vehicle, going through to frontward UCA bushing, and is connected at the...

The whole project has unfortunately been giving me trouble every step of the way, but slowly making progress. I am at the point where I have everything on the rear UCA disconnected except for the frontward bushing bolt, broke a breaker bar and starting to very slightly round the head of the bolt...

Is this for the v8 engine? If so, not sure how much help I can be, but I've got my hands full on the truck tomorrow and will look regardless. Try getting some fresh eyes on it tomorrow as well, on a recent rebuild I had one loose wire that I could NOT find a plug for. Spent 20 mins looking over...

Thank you! I did not even see the Rear lower at knuckle scrolling through, which was really my only confusion, odd that there is only one option for this, maybe I'm not looking hard enough. It certainly looks more like a bushing to me than a balljoint, reading from another post I guess this is a...

A lot of users have the same rear diff whine as you're describing, I developed one years ago, a fluid swap seemed to quiet it down for a long time until it came back again, drove like that for a few more years and decided to rebuild once I was getting the whine upon acceleration, as well as...

Hi all, just finished up changing out all 4 calipers/brakes/pads, original calipers had nearly 240k on them and were showing some wear. While I was in the rear I also noticed some pretty significant wear on the upper and lower control arms, I've decided I will swap out the entire UCA unit as...

If you're talking about the external tensioners (2), they are pretty easy to replace, you just need a deep socket. I removed the passenger wheel and mud guard to access the rear. It's been reported that this may cause problems if your timing chain cassettes are already weakened/fractured. The...

It's the devil, everything is in tip top shape except for the rotted rocker panels and hole in both rear dog legs (?) 20 years in the midwest will do it. At least I'll have some new tools in my arsenal after the fix

Sorry to hear about the bad buy, one of the unfortunate risks with online retailers and not seeing the product in person. I ended up buying all motorcraft OEM timing components instead of the cloyes set due to the risk of counterfeit parts, as well as some users questioning the quality of cloyes...

Pulley tensioner? Timing chain tensioner? Specifics will help