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I wouldn't consider these impressive, just thought I'd share.

Well, I was able to figure it out. It was the driver's side inner wheel bearing. You can see how the old race is pitted. It's still wild how it was acting like was the passenger side. But thankfully no noise anymore. I still plan on doing radius arm bushings, ball joints and alignment. Thanks...

Ok, good to know, when I sold it to the guy I told him about that issue, so I wasn't trying to hide anything from him. I sold it to an older guy I know really good and more than likely I'll be buying it back in the future. So I'll keep that in mind. Thank you

I have since sold this explorer but I'm writing this for any future readers. One day when I did an oil change I decided to add a quart of oil stabilizer and it totally eliminated the tick. I know that's a bad band aid for a problem but it was more like an experiment for what was causing the tick.

Ok, I'm going to agree with you, but I still can't wrap my head around how all that works. I guess that makes sense being that 410Fortune suggested taking the front drive shaft off to see if the noise was still there. I will be putting on new radius arm bushings, drivers side wheel bearings...

Thank you, you cleared some of that up for me. So, in 2wd the spindle bearings should be turning around the axle shafts because the axle isn't moving? Then in 4x4 the spindle bearings should not be turning? Because everything has been locked into place thanks to the axle turning, which then...

I have definitely considered the spindle bearings. But, I've been under the impression the the spindle bearings are only turning in 4wd and provided the hubs are working correctly. The quote below is from an old thread, concerning the spindles.

Ok, I feel even better about that I torqued everything correctly. That's what's I'll put on the list to do next, ball joint(s) and the driver's wheel bearings. Thank you so much for your help. Yes, I'll put some time effort and money in it to get it right. Thank you for your help. I'll update...

Ok good to know, I said 25ish lbs because of having to adjust it alittle to get the key in. What I'll probably wind up doing is putting in new radius arm bushings then get the ball joint(s) done then get an alignment. There was no discoloration or grooves in the old races which is another reason...

Well went back and torqued everything correctly according to 410Fortune. I do have a question though. You said to final torque the nut to 20-30ft/lbs, other places I've seen say 16in/lbs. So I'm alittle confused on that. Currently I've got it torqued around 25ishft/lbs. I still have play on the...

I just verified that my drivers side wheel has no play at 12 and 6 or at 3 and 9. BUT, my passenger side (the side I just worked on) has slight play at 3 and 9. It has a little more play at 12 and 6, so it looks like I'll go back in and re torque everything.

I haven't verified if there is any play at 3 and 9 or 12 and 6 on the drivers side wheel. (If that's what you mean by rotating assembly.) I'll do that as soon as it quits raining. The rotor is a little warped, so when I spin it by hand the brake pads will touched very slightly at a certain spot...

Ok, thank you, I think I posted my last post the same time you were replying to me. I am confident I have preloaded and torqued the bearings correctly, I've replaced the bearings and switched to manual hubs on a 94 ex I used to have and everything was good on it afterwards (about 2 years ago)...

Well, I think I've came to the conclusion that the 150ft/lbs nut is for the manual hubs. I still am trying to figure out what my noise is. Last night I put the explorer in 4x4 and drove down the road and the noise sounds the same, so no change in 2wd or 4x4. My tires are Michelin defender ltx...

I replaced my pass side inner and outer wheel bearings (timken) yesterday but I am still getting the same exact noise as I was before, no change, possibly just a little quieter. So of course I'm questioning myself on everything I did. I followed glaciers brake diary thread. I would assume I did...

Well today I put on the new fuel filter and sway bar link. and done the first oil change I've done to it, at exactly 170,003. I now have accomplished everything that it needed when I bought it. From now on repairs and such will come on an as needed basis. It feels like an accomplishment, being...

My grandfather built it off a bank and and graded it just a little. It makes it so much easier to work on stuff. Haha yeah...

Thanks, my grandfather built it about 20 years ago. It makes it much easier to work on stuff.

Haha neither does it taste like it. Lol

Well I finally got a chance to change the front and rear diff fluids the other day. I didn't have a good pump to extract the fluid from the front diff so I got a random hose I had in the garage and stuck it in the diff hole and sucked it (with my mouth) and let it siphon out into the pan. BTW...

Ok, will do. Yes definitely!

Here's how I changed the trans fluid. Dropped the pan and drained 4 qts and changed filter. Then put pan back on, then put 8 qts back in. Then hooked Drain hose to cooler line then pumped out 4qts, then cut off truck then put 4 more qts in then pumped out 4. Repeated that process multiple times...

I know, I was hesitant to change it but I did and thankfully it's still shifting good. (For now at least) I was surprised how bad the transfer case was.

I got the new Timken hubs on the other day, now it's alot quieter, old ones were roaring. Today I changed the transmission fluid, and boy was it dark. I exchanged all the fluid by pumping it out the cooler line with the vehicle running and pouring new fluid in at the same time. Supposedly...

So far I'm liking this color, it hides dirt well!