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Given the low cost nature of the AC parts on the explorer, I recommend just replacing the system. EVERYTHING new on mine was like $400. When you do that , make sure you use a red orifice tube. So many mixed responses on forums regarding which color to use. Only use red. No exceptions. If the...

I recently dropped the transmission pan, as I starting having more transmission trouble. Issues I am now having include stuttering when coming to a stop (between about 0.5-5mph), occasional stalling when going from reverse to drive and also making a turn, and now it hiccups while cruising on the...

Two ugga duggas wasn't enough

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I had the transmission valve body out, cleaned, and new gaskets installed about 2 years ago.

Attached is the link to the video with the noise. For additional details, I have had this same noise for over a year now. It only happens when the car is in drive and at a complete stop. Never in park or neutral. Most commonly it happens during high humidity days during warm up. The noise...

Too bad nobody trues tires anymore

I tightened mine to 2.4 ugga duggas on my small impact. No particular order. Been going strong for 2 years now :D

A bad, or out of aligned CkPS will cause the exact sound that sounds like a lifter tick. Source: I almost rebuilt my engine after changing the CkPS

Mine was that bad when I took off my intake plenum. I sprayed the **** out of it with carb cleaner, then turned over the engine a few times with the spark plugs out.

Mine are like that too, but I think its because I have old 2017 Rugged Terrain tires. I replaced all suspension components, and have a 1 inch lift. Perfect alignment too. My theory is uneven wear due to spots on the tire being harder than other parts, thus wearing unevenly.

Swapped the MAF sensor with a Motorcraft one, and the problem went away. Would have never guessed it in a million years. The voltages coming from it were perfectly fine, they must have just been dirty signals. Truck runs and drives fine, however the original issue for the o2 bank one, and the...

This was a visual inspection. I stripped all the wrap around the wires, and visually inspected every wire, then rewrapped it. Any component I was having issues with, I physically checked the continuity with a meter, and I was having zero wire continuity issues. The only thing I haven't checked...

New PCM dropped in, and exactly the same issues. Close to giving up and throwing the towel in. Driving to Austin this Sunday to visit Kris and Russell to see if it can stump them too. It seems to not stall if I'm driving on the freeway, so fingers crossed I can at least make it there.

Oddly enough. I got it put back together last night and it still had all the same issues. A cold front blew in, and with it 40° outside this morning I tried it, and all the sensors were alive, and the truck got me to work and almost back with no issues. Started stalling about 3 minutes from...

So, interesting enough, I put the computer into output switch test, via my handy Bosch 1300, and with the switches and solenoids set to the on position, I was able to get the canister purge valve to engage. It would engage at 12.35v the same as the battery, and when disengaged, it would go to...

Only one of the diodes were bad, actually. However after replacing both diodes, the issue still persists, and nothing has changed. I will be testing all grounds once more, once this rain stops, and will try slapping in yet another PCM. I already pulled and inspected the entire wiring harness, so...

The problem has steadily been getting worse. To the point, now, my truck wont stay running for more than 5 seconds. I pulled both the main harness and secondary one under the intake, and stripped and inspected them. No issues on either. However, I just tested the diodes in the fuse box, and both...

I had the same noise when my Camshaft Position Sensor was out of alignment. Given yours is a 94, it has one. Wouldn't hurt to check.

I've always been told you're good with almost any AC compressor as long as it's new and not remanufactured.

Damn, so my AC is just gonna be ****.... I'll have to take a look. I feel like there was no rotting on those bushings

The air conditioning is a simple one. During the hot Texas summers, I notice my air conditioning takes about 10 minutes of driving to blow air cold enough so I am not sweating. I have the severe duty fan clutch on, and I hear that fan spinning like its a damn city bus. I get in my friends' cars...

If you have the funds, I highly recommend the Bosch 1300 scan tool, as it lets you read the live data from the ECM. It's about $180

I was gonna say the relay too. I just had mine go out, and it was giving me the same symptoms. I also had my resistor go out too, but that symptom was only the settings that worked were high and off.

The method they listed didn't work for me, so if it's because I'm doing it wrong, then I will need more clear instructions (because I'm stupid)